stevasaurus

I also wish to send my best too Chris. Just found out about this stroke thing. He will be in my prayers.

Those rims really came out nice.

Bob, that is georgous. Hard to beat Oak.

Usually these chairs just have a piece of plywood for the seat wrapped with some kind of fabric over some padding. Not this one! When I took the fabric and padding off, I found a different design. The frame had some good cracks in it, so I needed to rebuild it. Used just about every wood working tool I have. The rest of the chair was in great shape and just needed to be cleaned and waxed. I had a couple of pieces of yellow pine laying around, and I figured I could rip it down to size and stay away from any knots. After ripping, I used a bevel guage and a trim saw to cut the 4 pieces. Checking the dry fit and they are ready to glue. After the glue dried, it was time to cut the notch around the outside of the frame. The outside sits on the frame of the chair, and the inside sits on the corner blocks and gets screwed to the chair. I used the table saw to cut the notches out. I then checked the fit and marked the holes and drilled them for the screws to hold the seat to the chair. I then used a router to round the top edge. The original had a piece of 1/8" plywood over the hole in the frame...so I cut one of those. Time for the fabric. I cut 2 pieces of 1/2" foam for the padding, and I am using some black vinyl for the cover. The fabric gets stapled to the bottom of the cut notch...first the front, second the back, and then the sides while making a nice corner. And here is the finished project. Thanks for looking.

That is one huge piece of concrete your hoist is holding...I'm impressed.

Those are really excellent John...lots of imagination, skill and patience there.

I really like your wine bar Jason. Great job of planning and functionality on the inside, and the antique look goes well with wine.

This is a product review. I recently was looking for a trickle charger that had a maintain function and found this. Note that I am not endorsing this manufacturer. This is made by Schmacher Eletcronics., it is a 1.6 Amp trickle charger with a maintain function. We all have small batteries for our garden tractors, motorcycles, trolling motors, depth finders, etc. and they (for the most part) last about 4 years. A charged battery lasts longer and I have been able to get 5/6 years out of some of my garden tractor batteries...so far. With this product, it charges the battery until it is charged and then goes into a maintain function that keeps the battery topped up...no over charge. The price was about $18 at Farm & Fleet. It comes with a plug at one end that will either plug into a set of aligator clips, or plug into a plug that you can attach to the terminals of your battery. It has 3 led lights on the base...1) red for power...2) yellow for charging...3) green when it is fully charged and on maintain. I've had a couple of cheaper devices that only maintain the charge that is there, and I have had a one of the three that I have stop working...I am hoping that a few more bucks pays off. I will let you know.

This drill was my Dad's and I watched him drill many holes in metal and then tap the hole with a 1/4" x 20 tap. This drill still packs a walop and will twist your arm off if you are not careful. It is a Black & Decker 1/4" keyless chuck drill. I did some research and as near as I can figure, it is a 1948 or 1949 vintage. The chuck is a Jacobs 1/4" keyless Hi Torque chuck...Model B-650. I can't make out the model of the drill...only the first and last number.of what looks like 3 numbers. Anyway, I thought I would share it here. I know we are all into good old tools that were made in the USA.

We receintly took a trip from Chicago, Il. to the Gettysburg, Penn. area...about 700 miles. I counted 5 small trailers on the side of the road with wheels off. Unreal.

Symmography...three dimensional art designs with yarn. Did this picture and a few others some time ago. I thought I would share them here. Thanks

There really is no substitute for doing them by hand. It takes just about 20 minutes to do one side, and you know the bearing is good, it has grease packed in it and the races are OK. I have the Bearing Buddies on my boat trailer, but if you back a warm bearinng in the water, you will probably get some water in the hub. Even with the Buddies, it is still a good idea to open it up and make sure...boat trailers in the fall (water freezes)...other trailers (at least jack up the wheel and give it a spin and a good listen.)

Thanks Karl...was hoping that was what you were looking for. Those bearings have basically set for almost 30 years and needed to be looked at. I have the compression hubs on my new boat trailer, but I still like to jack it up and spin a tire and listen to it. Those hubs you have should probably have a squirt of grease once a year, but you do not want to push it out the back side. I used to pack my old boat bearings in the fall when I put it away (always had some water in there) and I always checked them before and after a trip of about 350 miles. Does not take long to jack up a trailer...spin a tire and listen to how it sounds. I always carry at least one change of bearings in the truck tool box...just in case. I've seen a lot of trailers on the side of the road with a tire off in my travels...it is a lot easier to check it before the trip. Taking care of a bad bearing on the side of the road...just not safe, and you just lost all the time you were trying to save for vacation. A little preventive maintainance goes a long way. Spend a few minutes, and save yourself a lot of greef. At least jack up the trailer, spin the tire and listen to what it tells you. One other tip...after traveling about 50 miles...stop, do a walk around, check the lights, feel the tires for heat (should feel cool), feel the hub for heat also (should feel cool) and check the load.

I know a lot of us have trailers, and I think one of the most neglected things on a trailer is the bearings. This is a "how to" with pictures and a video of how I was taught how to do this. Hope you enjoy this and that it helps you care for the bearings in your trailer. The bearing that volunteered for this project. A little blurry, but using a screwdriver to drive off the dust cap. Once loose, you can work the dust cover off with a pair of channel locks Using a side cutters to grab the catter pin and remove it. Remove the castle nut. Pull off the hub with the inner and outer bearings. Use a punch to tap out the inner bearing and seal. Click on the video to see how to pack the bearings. Thanks for taking a look.