Anglo Traction

Thought I'd just add an update, as it has been a while and only recently able to progress with this one.
It does not really fit in this forum section as a project. So just to say that I've got it nearly all back together.
When it is properly running, I'll add it to the 'Other Garden Machines' section 

This is certainly an interesting project - a water cooled engine of that age combined with a mower.  There's a lot going on in that carb diagram - well done on sussing out and manufacturing/fixing those parts! Looking forward to more updates and pictures as things progress

Picked this mower up yesterday




Has anybody  any Information  on this engine 

New piston rings arrived today. 

.........If anything.........That was the issue I was asked to sort out recently. A heavy bronze carb fitted to a small water cooled 1/2hp engine from 1923 and had been adapted to fit onto an early 1930s Lawnmower!!.-
 

 
I actually found a Manual and parts list for the engine, but of course not one single available spare part. Failed to find anyone else online familiar with, or who had a similar ''N' type engine made by Stuart Turner.
Several bits missing according to the parts list diagram and one item had fortunately been acquired from ebay...the all important Float Bowl (screw on) Lid.
So I had to make and find the bits etc, so as it had not run for god knows how long, it was dismantled-
 
 
 
Certainly overdue for a clean and repair. The small clip under the spring (bottom middle of above pic) should be fixed by solder to the float. It holds the needle at correct height.........duly fixed.
Established that the large hollow brass nut (top left above) which acts as a sediment bowl should have a screened filter and a spring within. items (on left of next image) 4044/4045-
 

 
The bits had to fit within these parts-
 

 
So after a search for materials, a bit of lathe time and some soldering, I had the 'makins' of the necessaries-
 
 
 
The 'Stove Pipe' top hat filter body was silver soldered together, so that I could soft solder the mesh to the bottom and sides. But not before it was subjected to some careful milling to put some 1/4"wide slots into the side wall.
Appears to be some distortion in the image below which makes the filter body look crooked, but assure it is not.
 -

 
I was lucky to find in my stock, a suitable spring to apply pressure to the filter and keep it all in contact with it's seat. That filter/sediment body nut is 1 inch A/F.
So all done and ready to bolt on. Now super clean inside and favoured the patina to polish on a motor of this age-
 

 
Oh and yes, I have the task of getting this thing running/working, along with another pile of broken rusty bits......I may be some time!.
Regards 
 
 

.........If anything.........That was the issue I was asked to sort out recently. A heavy bronze carb fitted to a small water cooled 1/2hp engine from 1923 and had been adapted to fit onto an early 1930s Lawnmower!!.-
 

 
I actually found a Manual and parts list for the engine, but of course not one single available spare part. Failed to find anyone else online familiar with, or who had a similar ''N' type engine made by Stuart Turner.
Several bits missing according to the parts list diagram and one item had fortunately been acquired from ebay...the all important Float Bowl (screw on) Lid.
So I had to make and find the bits etc, so as it had not run for god knows how long, it was dismantled-
 
 
 
Certainly overdue for a clean and repair. The small clip under the spring (bottom middle of above pic) should be fixed by solder to the float. It holds the needle at correct height.........duly fixed.
Established that the large hollow brass nut (top left above) which acts as a sediment bowl should have a screened filter and a spring within. items (on left of next image) 4044/4045-
 

 
The bits had to fit within these parts-
 

 
So after a search for materials, a bit of lathe time and some soldering, I had the 'makins' of the necessaries-
 
 
 
The 'Stove Pipe' top hat filter body was silver soldered together, so that I could soft solder the mesh to the bottom and sides. But not before it was subjected to some careful milling to put some 1/4"wide slots into the side wall.
Appears to be some distortion in the image below which makes the filter body look crooked, but assure it is not.
 -

 
I was lucky to find in my stock, a suitable spring to apply pressure to the filter and keep it all in contact with it's seat. That filter/sediment body nut is 1 inch A/F.
So all done and ready to bolt on. Now super clean inside and favoured the patina to polish on a motor of this age-
 

 
Oh and yes, I have the task of getting this thing running/working, along with another pile of broken rusty bits......I may be some time!.
Regards 
 
 

.........If anything.........That was the issue I was asked to sort out recently. A heavy bronze carb fitted to a small water cooled 1/2hp engine from 1923 and had been adapted to fit onto an early 1930s Lawnmower!!.-
 

 
I actually found a Manual and parts list for the engine, but of course not one single available spare part. Failed to find anyone else online familiar with, or who had a similar ''N' type engine made by Stuart Turner.
Several bits missing according to the parts list diagram and one item had fortunately been acquired from ebay...the all important Float Bowl (screw on) Lid.
So I had to make and find the bits etc, so as it had not run for god knows how long, it was dismantled-
 
 
 
Certainly overdue for a clean and repair. The small clip under the spring (bottom middle of above pic) should be fixed by solder to the float. It holds the needle at correct height.........duly fixed.
Established that the large hollow brass nut (top left above) which acts as a sediment bowl should have a screened filter and a spring within. items (on left of next image) 4044/4045-
 

 
The bits had to fit within these parts-
 

 
So after a search for materials, a bit of lathe time and some soldering, I had the 'makins' of the necessaries-
 
 
 
The 'Stove Pipe' top hat filter body was silver soldered together, so that I could soft solder the mesh to the bottom and sides. But not before it was subjected to some careful milling to put some 1/4"wide slots into the side wall.
Appears to be some distortion in the image below which makes the filter body look crooked, but assure it is not.
 -

 
I was lucky to find in my stock, a suitable spring to apply pressure to the filter and keep it all in contact with it's seat. That filter/sediment body nut is 1 inch A/F.
So all done and ready to bolt on. Now super clean inside and favoured the patina to polish on a motor of this age-
 

 
Oh and yes, I have the task of getting this thing running/working, along with another pile of broken rusty bits......I may be some time!.
Regards 
 
 

.........If anything.........That was the issue I was asked to sort out recently. A heavy bronze carb fitted to a small water cooled 1/2hp engine from 1923 and had been adapted to fit onto an early 1930s Lawnmower!!.-
 

 
I actually found a Manual and parts list for the engine, but of course not one single available spare part. Failed to find anyone else online familiar with, or who had a similar ''N' type engine made by Stuart Turner.
Several bits missing according to the parts list diagram and one item had fortunately been acquired from ebay...the all important Float Bowl (screw on) Lid.
So I had to make and find the bits etc, so as it had not run for god knows how long, it was dismantled-
 
 
 
Certainly overdue for a clean and repair. The small clip under the spring (bottom middle of above pic) should be fixed by solder to the float. It holds the needle at correct height.........duly fixed.
Established that the large hollow brass nut (top left above) which acts as a sediment bowl should have a screened filter and a spring within. items (on left of next image) 4044/4045-
 

 
The bits had to fit within these parts-
 

 
So after a search for materials, a bit of lathe time and some soldering, I had the 'makins' of the necessaries-
 
 
 
The 'Stove Pipe' top hat filter body was silver soldered together, so that I could soft solder the mesh to the bottom and sides. But not before it was subjected to some careful milling to put some 1/4"wide slots into the side wall.
Appears to be some distortion in the image below which makes the filter body look crooked, but assure it is not.
 -

 
I was lucky to find in my stock, a suitable spring to apply pressure to the filter and keep it all in contact with it's seat. That filter/sediment body nut is 1 inch A/F.
So all done and ready to bolt on. Now super clean inside and favoured the patina to polish on a motor of this age-
 

 
Oh and yes, I have the task of getting this thing running/working, along with another pile of broken rusty bits......I may be some time!.
Regards 
 
 

.........If anything.........That was the issue I was asked to sort out recently. A heavy bronze carb fitted to a small water cooled 1/2hp engine from 1923 and had been adapted to fit onto an early 1930s Lawnmower!!.-
 

 
I actually found a Manual and parts list for the engine, but of course not one single available spare part. Failed to find anyone else online familiar with, or who had a similar ''N' type engine made by Stuart Turner.
Several bits missing according to the parts list diagram and one item had fortunately been acquired from ebay...the all important Float Bowl (screw on) Lid.
So I had to make and find the bits etc, so as it had not run for god knows how long, it was dismantled-
 
 
 
Certainly overdue for a clean and repair. The small clip under the spring (bottom middle of above pic) should be fixed by solder to the float. It holds the needle at correct height.........duly fixed.
Established that the large hollow brass nut (top left above) which acts as a sediment bowl should have a screened filter and a spring within. items (on left of next image) 4044/4045-
 

 
The bits had to fit within these parts-
 

 
So after a search for materials, a bit of lathe time and some soldering, I had the 'makins' of the necessaries-
 
 
 
The 'Stove Pipe' top hat filter body was silver soldered together, so that I could soft solder the mesh to the bottom and sides. But not before it was subjected to some careful milling to put some 1/4"wide slots into the side wall.
Appears to be some distortion in the image below which makes the filter body look crooked, but assure it is not.
 -

 
I was lucky to find in my stock, a suitable spring to apply pressure to the filter and keep it all in contact with it's seat. That filter/sediment body nut is 1 inch A/F.
So all done and ready to bolt on. Now super clean inside and favoured the patina to polish on a motor of this age-
 

 
Oh and yes, I have the task of getting this thing running/working, along with another pile of broken rusty bits......I may be some time!.
Regards 
 
 

Hello Gents,
                      Thanks for viewing and your comments. A little more progress to date. The front end is more or less sorted ready for the chimney to go on and is now sitting on it's front wheels.
The cylinder in the original model design had a bland side face just shaped and usually painted black. I, as may be seen in a previous post,  just had to make things more difficult for the sake of detail.
I made up a cover plate and secured it with screws as per the full size engines. This has been painted the same dark blue as other parts and (I think) helps to finish the area off. 
I have just replaced the last temporary screw on the cylinder part for a stud/nut, but you will see a countersunk screw in the top Guide Bar in this pic which I had taken earlier.
The tiny (7mm dia) steel handwheel on the Blower Valve was drilled and finish filed by hand/eye, but looks ok I think.-
 

 
The steering chain drum finshed and now fitted is also modified from the model design to reflect full size layout. The chain (brass) is what used to be supplied to clockmakers for the winding system on long cases.
I plan too make my own at a later stage in steel with brazed links-
 

 
Lastly for now, I finished making the square headed blanking plugs and stop pins in bronze for the water pump and now fitted in it's partially hidden place down behind the rear wheel.
Original model design was for it to fit on the side of the boiler, which looks way out of scale, and over the years, other modellers have experienced priming issues when in steam with boiler mounted pumps.
I think it is because of the heat, but I fortunately redesigned this back in 1987 to locate in a cool area similar to full size layout-
 
 
 
Sorry about the last image quality, I deleted the wrong one . You may notice a red dot adjacent to gear tooth on both the 2nd and 3rd motion shaft gear wheels.
I have a slight resistance in rotation where these two coincide, so i think i must have a tiny burr on them, so i will pull these off and run them with some p600/oil & 'T' cut grinding paste to bed them in.
The running clearances were set using cigarette papers (about 0.0015"), so it doesn't take much to obstruct free movement. Hopefully more soon.
Regards.
 
 

Good to see you back postin Ian!. Should help to stem the flow of tumbleweed and the sound of howling wind across the forum.
Good work there. A much larger form of 4 way tool post than I have on my old myford, but they're sooo handy.
Keep 'em coming.
Regards

Now for a errr... Interesting challenge..  How to cut a smallish square from that big slab!
 
The best and quietest way I could think of was a bit "iffy", but it worked..
 

 

 
 
That looks very close!!
 

 
 
But it clears, just..
 

 
 
Lot's of cutting and turning later, all three parts are the right size.
 

 
 
A quick look at my plans... Or should that be rough scribble?
 

 
 
And it was time to fix all three parts together... A single bolt kept it all in check..
 

 
 
So I could mark out and start drilling holes to put some bolts through. Here's the top drilled out..
 

 
 
And the base...
 

 
 
A bit of countersinking was needed..
 

 
 
So the bolt heads would sit flush.
 

 
 
More to follow later including a rather well edited if rather long video... Tune back for more later..

Hello Gents,
                      Thanks for viewing and your comments. A little more progress to date. The front end is more or less sorted ready for the chimney to go on and is now sitting on it's front wheels.
The cylinder in the original model design had a bland side face just shaped and usually painted black. I, as may be seen in a previous post,  just had to make things more difficult for the sake of detail.
I made up a cover plate and secured it with screws as per the full size engines. This has been painted the same dark blue as other parts and (I think) helps to finish the area off. 
I have just replaced the last temporary screw on the cylinder part for a stud/nut, but you will see a countersunk screw in the top Guide Bar in this pic which I had taken earlier.
The tiny (7mm dia) steel handwheel on the Blower Valve was drilled and finish filed by hand/eye, but looks ok I think.-
 

 
The steering chain drum finshed and now fitted is also modified from the model design to reflect full size layout. The chain (brass) is what used to be supplied to clockmakers for the winding system on long cases.
I plan too make my own at a later stage in steel with brazed links-
 

 
Lastly for now, I finished making the square headed blanking plugs and stop pins in bronze for the water pump and now fitted in it's partially hidden place down behind the rear wheel.
Original model design was for it to fit on the side of the boiler, which looks way out of scale, and over the years, other modellers have experienced priming issues when in steam with boiler mounted pumps.
I think it is because of the heat, but I fortunately redesigned this back in 1987 to locate in a cool area similar to full size layout-
 
 
 
Sorry about the last image quality, I deleted the wrong one . You may notice a red dot adjacent to gear tooth on both the 2nd and 3rd motion shaft gear wheels.
I have a slight resistance in rotation where these two coincide, so i think i must have a tiny burr on them, so i will pull these off and run them with some p600/oil & 'T' cut grinding paste to bed them in.
The running clearances were set using cigarette papers (about 0.0015"), so it doesn't take much to obstruct free movement. Hopefully more soon.
Regards.
 
 

Hello Gents,
                      Thanks for viewing and your comments. A little more progress to date. The front end is more or less sorted ready for the chimney to go on and is now sitting on it's front wheels.
The cylinder in the original model design had a bland side face just shaped and usually painted black. I, as may be seen in a previous post,  just had to make things more difficult for the sake of detail.
I made up a cover plate and secured it with screws as per the full size engines. This has been painted the same dark blue as other parts and (I think) helps to finish the area off. 
I have just replaced the last temporary screw on the cylinder part for a stud/nut, but you will see a countersunk screw in the top Guide Bar in this pic which I had taken earlier.
The tiny (7mm dia) steel handwheel on the Blower Valve was drilled and finish filed by hand/eye, but looks ok I think.-
 

 
The steering chain drum finshed and now fitted is also modified from the model design to reflect full size layout. The chain (brass) is what used to be supplied to clockmakers for the winding system on long cases.
I plan too make my own at a later stage in steel with brazed links-
 

 
Lastly for now, I finished making the square headed blanking plugs and stop pins in bronze for the water pump and now fitted in it's partially hidden place down behind the rear wheel.
Original model design was for it to fit on the side of the boiler, which looks way out of scale, and over the years, other modellers have experienced priming issues when in steam with boiler mounted pumps.
I think it is because of the heat, but I fortunately redesigned this back in 1987 to locate in a cool area similar to full size layout-
 
 
 
Sorry about the last image quality, I deleted the wrong one . You may notice a red dot adjacent to gear tooth on both the 2nd and 3rd motion shaft gear wheels.
I have a slight resistance in rotation where these two coincide, so i think i must have a tiny burr on them, so i will pull these off and run them with some p600/oil & 'T' cut grinding paste to bed them in.
The running clearances were set using cigarette papers (about 0.0015"), so it doesn't take much to obstruct free movement. Hopefully more soon.
Regards.
 
 

After 2 months of poor weather conditions, I have managed to continue with painting and some assembly. I finally fitted the last of the valve covers on the cylinder block after setting all the valve event adjustments and finishing the motion work off to a standard of sewing machine smoothness. This allowed me to apply a penultimate semi matt black coat over all the joints, stud heads and nuts to consolidate the whole finish. The Chimney saddle and the exhaust pipe were painted separately, as the saddle is bolted, instead of the original model design of riveting. It is easier this way, as I can reach into awkward corners and touch in the bolt heads with the Airbrush on a fine setting.
Just need a little more care this way of fitting without paint damage. I detailed the exhaust a bit more with fitting a bolted flange at the cylinder end. The exhaust is 1/4" diameter pipe for clarity-
 

 
The Regulator Rod just under the safety valves in the next pic has a dummy tail rod and gland. I have to make the 2 x 14ba studs and nuts for it yet.
I decided to machine and file it from the excess metal on the casting to give it some detail, as the original model design just showed a lump of round metal there.  
A bit of cleaning up of the overspray on the raised brass lettering to do, but otherwise a major step forward on the assembly front-
 

 
I did manage to get the top coat on the flywheel last month and very pleased with the finish. Only temporarily fitted, so the gib key pulls out easily-
 

 
Hopefully progress and updates will continue to speed up now, as the jobs on other projects are building up as well as work down at the museum.
I have managed to get some lathe time in though, helping out with making unobtainable parts for old mowers for a guy on the Old Lawnmower Club forum, so I have been busy really.
Regards.

After 2 months of poor weather conditions, I have managed to continue with painting and some assembly. I finally fitted the last of the valve covers on the cylinder block after setting all the valve event adjustments and finishing the motion work off to a standard of sewing machine smoothness. This allowed me to apply a penultimate semi matt black coat over all the joints, stud heads and nuts to consolidate the whole finish. The Chimney saddle and the exhaust pipe were painted separately, as the saddle is bolted, instead of the original model design of riveting. It is easier this way, as I can reach into awkward corners and touch in the bolt heads with the Airbrush on a fine setting.
Just need a little more care this way of fitting without paint damage. I detailed the exhaust a bit more with fitting a bolted flange at the cylinder end. The exhaust is 1/4" diameter pipe for clarity-
 

 
The Regulator Rod just under the safety valves in the next pic has a dummy tail rod and gland. I have to make the 2 x 14ba studs and nuts for it yet.
I decided to machine and file it from the excess metal on the casting to give it some detail, as the original model design just showed a lump of round metal there.  
A bit of cleaning up of the overspray on the raised brass lettering to do, but otherwise a major step forward on the assembly front-
 

 
I did manage to get the top coat on the flywheel last month and very pleased with the finish. Only temporarily fitted, so the gib key pulls out easily-
 

 
Hopefully progress and updates will continue to speed up now, as the jobs on other projects are building up as well as work down at the museum.
I have managed to get some lathe time in though, helping out with making unobtainable parts for old mowers for a guy on the Old Lawnmower Club forum, so I have been busy really.
Regards.

The day was coming to an end fitted the mud wings 

That's all folks  stay safe enjoy the rest of the Bank holiday weekend
Hame time now.

Sorry for the resurrection of this one, but thought those who watch Gardener's World (BBC uk) may see this mower (briefly) on this Friday's programme
It's included in Clive Gravett's (of the Budding Foundation Museum of Gardening) 2nd instalment on the programme covering the history of the mower.
It is also in the Atco Centenary Video on their website:- LINK  within the 1950s period. So at least it's still earning it's keep with the Charity.
 
Regards.
Richard
 

Sorry for the resurrection of this one, but thought those who watch Gardener's World (BBC uk) may see this mower (briefly) on this Friday's programme
It's included in Clive Gravett's (of the Budding Foundation Museum of Gardening) 2nd instalment on the programme covering the history of the mower.
It is also in the Atco Centenary Video on their website:- LINK  within the 1950s period. So at least it's still earning it's keep with the Charity.
 
Regards.
Richard
 

I've been making a couple of attachments for the Sears/Roper recently.
 
First was a front tow hitch out of some scrap lying around. May not look pretty, but functual and cheap.
 

 
  Secondly a rack for the rear of it. I did make a tote box for the front to carry my chainsaw etc, but on really rough ground it would hit large bumps or ground out on deep holes. So I decided to make a rack to carry it behind the seat.
  Again made from scrap and an old scrap gate.
 

 
Box trial fitted.

 
 Finally some paint thrown on with a brush.

 
 Later I had an idea. I was bored BTW. A seat was lying on the shelf, so let's fit it to the rack.

 
Not ideal but good for a laugh.

 
Certainly strong but best not pull any wheelies.  
  

Hi Norm/All,
                      Well I made the pins from a larger size. I had to reduce them and 'draw down' the eye part to under 1/16"dia, which is still out of scale, but much closer and still manageable to fit/remove.
Well over the last few days, I've made a bit of progress with painting and assembly.
Got past the difficult bit of fitting the horn plates, shafts and the Backhead fittings with minimal need for paint touch ups. Bit difficult to get enough light into the dark areas of black painted bits-
 
   
 
The fitting of the Tender to the horn plates went ok and has 8 x 8ba bolts/nuts on each side, plus 4 x 7ba for the axle bearings.
Original design was just the 4 bearing bolts and a single bolt/nut at the top each side.
Quite pleased with the colour and should look plain, but smart when finished.
I even made the steps with a 'raised' pattern chequer plate, rather than just saw cuts. The bright handle fitting serves to bolt the coal bunker plate to the tender side -
 
 
 
The oil boxes all have filter screens inside to keep the moving bits clean.
I think I will dull off the duck boarding a bit, as it looks a bit 'orange boxy' yellow to me.
Regards.

Hi Norm/All,
                      Well I made the pins from a larger size. I had to reduce them and 'draw down' the eye part to under 1/16"dia, which is still out of scale, but much closer and still manageable to fit/remove.
Well over the last few days, I've made a bit of progress with painting and assembly.
Got past the difficult bit of fitting the horn plates, shafts and the Backhead fittings with minimal need for paint touch ups. Bit difficult to get enough light into the dark areas of black painted bits-
 
   
 
The fitting of the Tender to the horn plates went ok and has 8 x 8ba bolts/nuts on each side, plus 4 x 7ba for the axle bearings.
Original design was just the 4 bearing bolts and a single bolt/nut at the top each side.
Quite pleased with the colour and should look plain, but smart when finished.
I even made the steps with a 'raised' pattern chequer plate, rather than just saw cuts. The bright handle fitting serves to bolt the coal bunker plate to the tender side -
 
 
 
The oil boxes all have filter screens inside to keep the moving bits clean.
I think I will dull off the duck boarding a bit, as it looks a bit 'orange boxy' yellow to me.
Regards.

Many thanks guys. Hope all are well and upbeat on the anticipation of getting back to normal. I'll try and make greater progress on this before I post more pics after this post.
Along with other parts, I have managed to get the last top coat on the Tender/Manstand part of the engine which was giving me a challenge trying to keep it free of contaminates while spraying.
Completed the assembly of the front axle with the addition of the 'Spud' ring and pan design to the model-
 

 
 
The 'Pan' part was fabricated with a lid from a Duraglit tin. The design was copied from  photos of a full size T Engine.
 Fitted the finished wheels that have smaller hub caps and correct style 'Oilers'-
 

 
The colour is a dark royal blue over black primer which is close to Prussian blue.
There will be no fancy fairground colours or coach lines, as this is to be representative of a 'bog standard' utility general purpose engine.
 
While it is mainly still in bits, I take the opportunity of fettling the 'motion' parts to ensure they are all clean, close fitting, but smooth.
The con rod is a redesign to full size spec, which was a bit of a challenge when I made it 30 years ago with little experience of working metal or machines-
 

 
The all important Reversing lever and quadrant are also redesigned as per full size versions. For size comparison, the 3 tapered pins in the weigh shaft (bottom) are 3/64" dia (1.2mm)-
 

 
The finish on the lifting linkage below is after it has been dulled off with sulphuric acid, which makes the appearance more in scale.
The tiny split pin in view is 1/32" dia (0.8mm). I had to reduce the size a bit and make 10 of them-
 

 
I hope to make more progress in a week or two and hopefully start to look like an engine.
Regards.
  
 

Many thanks guys. Hope all are well and upbeat on the anticipation of getting back to normal. I'll try and make greater progress on this before I post more pics after this post.
Along with other parts, I have managed to get the last top coat on the Tender/Manstand part of the engine which was giving me a challenge trying to keep it free of contaminates while spraying.
Completed the assembly of the front axle with the addition of the 'Spud' ring and pan design to the model-
 

 
 
The 'Pan' part was fabricated with a lid from a Duraglit tin. The design was copied from  photos of a full size T Engine.
 Fitted the finished wheels that have smaller hub caps and correct style 'Oilers'-
 

 
The colour is a dark royal blue over black primer which is close to Prussian blue.
There will be no fancy fairground colours or coach lines, as this is to be representative of a 'bog standard' utility general purpose engine.
 
While it is mainly still in bits, I take the opportunity of fettling the 'motion' parts to ensure they are all clean, close fitting, but smooth.
The con rod is a redesign to full size spec, which was a bit of a challenge when I made it 30 years ago with little experience of working metal or machines-
 

 
The all important Reversing lever and quadrant are also redesigned as per full size versions. For size comparison, the 3 tapered pins in the weigh shaft (bottom) are 3/64" dia (1.2mm)-
 

 
The finish on the lifting linkage below is after it has been dulled off with sulphuric acid, which makes the appearance more in scale.
The tiny split pin in view is 1/32" dia (0.8mm). I had to reduce the size a bit and make 10 of them-
 

 
I hope to make more progress in a week or two and hopefully start to look like an engine.
Regards.
  
 

Many thanks guys. Hope all are well and upbeat on the anticipation of getting back to normal. I'll try and make greater progress on this before I post more pics after this post.
Along with other parts, I have managed to get the last top coat on the Tender/Manstand part of the engine which was giving me a challenge trying to keep it free of contaminates while spraying.
Completed the assembly of the front axle with the addition of the 'Spud' ring and pan design to the model-
 

 
 
The 'Pan' part was fabricated with a lid from a Duraglit tin. The design was copied from  photos of a full size T Engine.
 Fitted the finished wheels that have smaller hub caps and correct style 'Oilers'-
 

 
The colour is a dark royal blue over black primer which is close to Prussian blue.
There will be no fancy fairground colours or coach lines, as this is to be representative of a 'bog standard' utility general purpose engine.
 
While it is mainly still in bits, I take the opportunity of fettling the 'motion' parts to ensure they are all clean, close fitting, but smooth.
The con rod is a redesign to full size spec, which was a bit of a challenge when I made it 30 years ago with little experience of working metal or machines-
 

 
The all important Reversing lever and quadrant are also redesigned as per full size versions. For size comparison, the 3 tapered pins in the weigh shaft (bottom) are 3/64" dia (1.2mm)-
 

 
The finish on the lifting linkage below is after it has been dulled off with sulphuric acid, which makes the appearance more in scale.
The tiny split pin in view is 1/32" dia (0.8mm). I had to reduce the size a bit and make 10 of them-
 

 
I hope to make more progress in a week or two and hopefully start to look like an engine.
Regards.