expeatfarmer 591 #51 Posted February 7, 2016 Now that was a revelation, I managed to borrow a portable injector testing rig which was a bit of a faff to set up but once sorted it showed me that one of the injectors I have was cracking off at over 4000lbs/sq inch ( nice pattern though ) the other looked like that little boy fountain cracking off at 1000 psi with a squirted stream and the dribbles. The crack pressure is adjusted by fitting schims or washers under the injector spring, I played around with one for about an hour trying to achieve 2250 psi and gave up at 2100 fitted it to the engine, it started a bit better but still smoked. I decided to closely examine the governor mechanisms and found that the one fitted had a bent spring locating shaft which was causing the rotor to be obstructed. If it was not for the time constraints I would be finding it interesting following on from previous owners trying to analyse just what they have adjusted to keep the machine running in the past as it is now it is a right pain as I really don't have enough set up information to restore factory settings as they say. Things like the rod that links the rack on the pump to the governor the one fitted has been adjusted longer than the one I have from a running engine but swapping makes no difference. Maybe if I stand and look at it long enough some crucial thing may become apparent ( I wish ) Crack pressure tester in action sitting at 4000psi !!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rocboni 257 #52 Posted February 7, 2016 I just tested mine with the injector out of the engine and turned it over to make sure it was misting the fuel, the throttle was also clearly adjusting the volume aswell. Do you think this test would be sufficient? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #53 Posted February 7, 2016 I have just adjusted the crack pressure to exactly 2300psi and the tractor runs much better so I would say it is worth setting them up right. But if it starts runs and does nor smoke too much I would leave well alnoe until you ave the engine in bits again.l 1 Stormin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #54 Posted February 7, 2016 That's good news, Jonathan. How's the smoking now? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #55 Posted February 7, 2016 Good as its going to get I think, just finishing it off now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rocboni 257 #56 Posted February 7, 2016 Does it spit a lot of black diesel out? Have you had a test drive? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #57 Posted February 7, 2016 No and no, just about to take the gas bottles to it!!! Had it running nicely so spent ages refitting all the covers went to start it and it just wont run It would seem as if I have two faulty governor assemblies. Going to try and get a new set. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rocboni 257 #58 Posted February 7, 2016 Mine does, I thought it was unburnt fuel from starting but seems to persist spattering out of silencer to pipe joint after I sealed the flange to the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #59 Posted February 7, 2016 I think basically that the engine design is not of the best and excess fuel is always present in the exhaust. In the past I have taken a blowlamp to the exhaust to clear out the crap. The other thing to do is drain the crankcase regularly as oil and fuel does build up in the transfer cavity which can make smoking worse. 1 Rocboni reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rocboni 257 #60 Posted February 7, 2016 I'm dreading trying to start mine at Malvern. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #61 Posted February 7, 2016 No doubt you'll most likely have company, Rhys. Be plenty of smoky engines. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #62 Posted February 8, 2016 I thought I had found the problem today, the rod that links the fuel pump rack to the governor was fouling on the casting for the pump location bolts. I relieved the casting to give clearance, put it all back together again but just won't start. It fires and runs for a few cycle and then stops. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 1,900 #63 Posted February 8, 2016 Really admire the pain you go through to keep these beauties running. You don't have much luck at the moment 1 expeatfarmer reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #64 Posted February 9, 2016 Fitted a NOS governor today courtesy of Neil Jarrett. Engine fired up and started perfectly first go! Looks as if this has been a similar issue as the magnetos on 137 I have two faulty governors, one of which came off a good running engine. There are various parts of the governor that can be adjusted although the books tell you to leave them strictly alone you cannot tell what someone else has done in the past to make an engine run.Unfortunately there is a lack of data which would enable you to set the adjustments back to standard. 1 Stormin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-101plowerpower 548 #65 Posted February 9, 2016 Fitted a NOS governor today courtesy of Neil Jarrett. Engine fired up and started perfectly first go! Looks as if this has been a similar issue as the magnetos on 137 I have two faulty governors, one of which came off a good running engine. There are various parts of the governor that can be adjusted although the books tell you to leave them strictly alone you cannot tell what someone else has done in the past to make an engine run.Unfortunately there is a lack of data which would enable you to set the adjustments back to standard. what happens if you adjust the two faulty governers the same as the nos one? would be a good starting point Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #66 Posted February 9, 2016 That is my plan at some point well after Malvern!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #67 Posted February 9, 2016 That's good news, Jonathan. Has the smoke issue been improved? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #68 Posted February 9, 2016 Much better thanks Norman. Made up a panel for the ignition key and heater plug switch. Have to keep going back to it and starting it just to make sure it is sorted. So far so good ! If it was not for Neil Jarrett being able to supply me with parts more or less next day I would be screwed. 2 Stormin and hpearce reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rocboni 257 #69 Posted February 9, 2016 Wonder if it would be worth me trying a new governor, trouble is the cost. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #70 Posted February 10, 2016 What actually is wrong with yours just smokey? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rocboni 257 #71 Posted February 10, 2016 Hard to start and smokey. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #72 Posted February 10, 2016 I would go for new rings first as loss of compression is a cause of both symptoms.Also well worth setting the bump clearance on the head to make sure you have best compression. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #73 Posted February 10, 2016 All done! Went for a ride up the road to the next farm. Starts really well from cold or hot, seems to lack power but hey who cares it moves and smoke is minimal. Steers well on grass and gravel bit sluggish to steer severely on tarmac but then new tyres etc. Throttle still a bit stiff but again newness in the governor and I am certainly not going to mess about with it. First two pictures are engine ticking over at 510 rpm, third picture is full bore at 2100 rpm. Does smoke more under load but again it is 4 degrees here. 3 hpearce, nigel and Rocboni reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rocboni 257 #74 Posted February 10, 2016 Looks virtually smoke free! Mine steers exactly how you describe it, sluggish on tarmac, not great in 3rd gear unless you have a bit of momentum. Looks better without that big piece of channel welded to the back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris 642 #75 Posted February 10, 2016 I thought 3rd was best going straight Thats a good welcome to your place Jon. Skid marks in front of your house 1 Triumph66 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
