Jump to content
Anglo Traction

Downsizing in Metalwork

Recommended Posts

Truly impressive! The art, mechanical details and especially the talent to be able to do it.

Building a museum quality piece like that will be a priceless satisfaction when it's completed. Something money can't buy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/17/2020 at 7:55 PM, Alan said:

:bow: I'm running out of suitable complimentary words Richard. :bow:

 

I'm always grateful Alan and thanks. If the Topic/thread provides interest and something to read/look at being produced, then it has served it's purpose.

Interests vary and is always good to see them all in material forms such as on this Forum, irrespective of varying skill levels and subjects.

 

On 12/17/2020 at 9:02 PM, Stormin said:

I don't think I'd worry about the letters that have moved, Richard. Doubt anyone will notice if you don't tell them. :thumbs:

 

Reckon you're right Norm. They are obscured by the wheels. Only needed a few thousands of an inch variation on the flatness of the retaining plate while heating up for the lettering to be able to shift.

 

On 12/25/2020 at 4:35 AM, Wallfish said:

Truly impressive! The art, mechanical details and especially the talent to be able to do it.

Building a museum quality piece like that will be a priceless satisfaction when it's completed. Something money can't buy.

 

Humbled John. Thanks. Learned to love the qualities of metals and lucky to have lots of patience. Things take me a long time to do, what with learning as I go.

A project to me is loads of smaller projects which combine to make a finished one,  hence the slow pace. Happy with the progress and the finished item is in sight

Regards

 

Well I somehow endured the low temperatures and managed to get some colour on this Water Cart. Matt finish is important as it seems to improve the appearance of a model this size.

I had to use 2 different primers, one on the metal parts and another on the wood. Top coat went on fine with only a few undesirable bits in it which were easy to remove after.

I used my 45 year old Badger 200 Airbrush, which had done many Murals on Car and Van panels back in the 1970s and still going strong-

 

65BB7AA2-B9A7-4D71-85A7-355294C163D2.jpeg.5c99585fc5d35b0f9b43c8d7a881e48c.jpeg 

 

Once dry, I was able to pick out the raised lettering in yellow, a challenge with a tiny 6 bristled sable brush and an Eye Glass, while holding my breath to keep my hand steady-

 

3E76D9AD-3D74-4AA9-9044-0F10FB1D6E31.jpeg.e3b7fd0e873f7520c61758daf544bb60.jpeg

 

Currently a partial assembly to keep the bits together and dust free-

 

C0799C66-702D-48F6-AA20-C01B0455228F_1_201_a.jpeg.ce6854474548ec3a976ab3852857201a.jpeg6988A011-A543-4B4E-9247-B8772E90DA8A.jpeg.368b168530dbc63add626a5a2c2a9b08.jpeg

 

Colour variations are due to available light, but the last image is what the colour is by eye. Valve internal parts now fitted. Matt varnish for top coat is on order.

Currently dulling off the shiny wheel rims using acid to etch the finish.

Regards

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I too am most impressed with the detail involved in this project, I didn't quite realise how small things were until I looked up 12BA in my wee thread guide to find it only goes as far as 10BA and that IS small.
I'm afraid my hands would not be steady enough to do half of this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks gents. 

                        Hope all are dodging the virus and keeping sane.

 

On 1/8/2021 at 7:45 AM, Stormin said:

 I'm interested to see how you do the horse. :D

Hi Norm, yeah, long wait :blink:,  I've decided not to go down that route. To get a decent 1/12th example, it's about a £100.

It will be stand alone with all the fittings options, or attached to the Engine, which would make the shafts redundant and were only really an exercise for me initially.

                       

Not much to show for in over a month what with the cold temps.

Geared up ready the moment the temp gets above 10c and low humidity to carry on painting this and the Engine.

Sorted the issue of dulling off the steel rim faces, well it will do-

 

9CADA7B12-A13E-4A9B-A332-001ECFC8F032.jpeg.dabd43a0950b0a2e352ae3b5856f0468.jpeg

 

As I had already painted the wheels, I used a homemade type of 'Q' tip loaded with 37% Sulphuric acid and continually rotated the wheel to keep the applied acid even.

Took 5 mins each wheel, then clean off and neutralised. Did not affect the paint and will get a coat of matt lacquer over the whole wheel(s).

I should really paint the shafts and props the same as the body, but will leave them for now.

 

64C69E63-0470-4C00-8150-CC68D1B8F7A9.jpeg.c479d68c4da250834c31dec785b83b30.jpeg

 

Spray bar and connections to finish.  Hoses to make next when the materials arrive. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, It's a bit quiet here again. so I'll add an update in the hope someone will be along later and may want to view something recently posted. Would be sorry to see this forum close.

Switched my attention over to the Engine where, for longer than I had planned, have been making tiny bits I'd delayed until I began the final assembly.

Loads of preparation before I could dodge the weather conditions and get the etch primer on during the good still, dry days since last September.

Tested the water pump and all's well, so fitted to it's permanent location-

 

F7254A47-1115-4814-AB9F-E82FF8886844.jpeg.6812b22017284a2753a3ddc2b52e2c1f.jpeg

 

Did some micro milling on the pump's eccentric sheave using a 1/16" diameter Slot Drill to reflect the casting style of the full size. 

Finished the motion work at the cylinder end and has all the full size detail design specification incorporated-

 

2D6E4C25-8B6E-4DF6-9323-6C3AB6BC0E14.jpeg.26c6b2eeeb2be15beee83df6975814a4.jpeg

 

The Back Plate carrying the regulator lever and the gear selector now has a number plaque fitted.

8mm between the fixings and the numbers bent to shape with tweezers from tinned fuse wire,  sweated into a bed of solder in the recess of the plaque and painted.

The numbers relate to the boiler's certification reference numbers-

 

1DAAE047-6260-4F8D-894F-7172FDE7BEB1.jpeg.56ac5ecf95c740bc801735d89b9d6bfd.jpeg 

 

I shall be dulling off all the bright polished steel bits using the same process as in the Water Cart wheel rim faces.

The pump eccentric strap and rod (2nd pic) have been treated and look much more realistic in this scale.

I have managed to get some top coat onto the Tender/Manstand and a few other parts today, so I hope I can maintain the progress rate.

 

Regards. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Many thanks guys. Hope all are well and upbeat on the anticipation of getting back to normal. I'll try and make greater progress on this before I post more pics after this post.

Along with other parts, I have managed to get the last top coat on the Tender/Manstand part of the engine which was giving me a challenge trying to keep it free of contaminates while spraying.

Completed the assembly of the front axle with the addition of the 'Spud' ring and pan design to the model-

 

D58CB428-3C14-4A35-BA9D-428EE9CFE5F1_1_201_a.jpeg.3e55215330677980fdbcc3cdd3e55b36.jpeg

 

 

The 'Pan' part was fabricated with a lid from a Duraglit tin. The design was copied from  photos of a full size T Engine.

 Fitted the finished wheels that have smaller hub caps and correct style 'Oilers'-

 

5A25B72E-E853-4EC5-9198-41A2F29BFEF8.jpeg.0053fd9bc4af46479a3eb8c9403ad45b.jpeg

 

The colour is a dark royal blue over black primer which is close to Prussian blue.

There will be no fancy fairground colours or coach lines, as this is to be representative of a 'bog standard' utility general purpose engine.

 

While it is mainly still in bits, I take the opportunity of fettling the 'motion' parts to ensure they are all clean, close fitting, but smooth.

The con rod is a redesign to full size spec, which was a bit of a challenge when I made it 30 years ago with little experience of working metal or machines-

 

6CEBD529-1F64-4DB5-AE78-B739FC3C7B24.jpeg.e3ea4519ebd5a0672e56deceb5512619.jpeg

 

The all important Reversing lever and quadrant are also redesigned as per full size versions. For size comparison, the 3 tapered pins in the weigh shaft (bottom) are 3/64" dia (1.2mm)-

 

1E1CB4F5-6DF8-4C0B-91E0-C0089FF88BAE.jpeg.a76511ed6f15f846422a65e9eba66bd9.jpeg

 

The finish on the lifting linkage below is after it has been dulled off with sulphuric acid, which makes the appearance more in scale.

The tiny split pin in view is 1/32" dia (0.8mm). I had to reduce the size a bit and make 10 of them-

 

998E615F-0D28-46E6-9E6B-768BAA997903.jpeg.a397c59069489075173ef8537c8be613.jpeg

 

I hope to make more progress in a week or two and hopefully start to look like an engine.

Regards.

  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/30/2021 at 7:51 AM, Stormin said:

 You MADE the split pins!! :bow:

Hi Norm/All,

                      Well I made the pins from a larger size. I had to reduce them and 'draw down' the eye part to under 1/16"dia, which is still out of scale, but much closer and still manageable to fit/remove.

Well over the last few days, I've made a bit of progress with painting and assembly.

Got past the difficult bit of fitting the horn plates, shafts and the Backhead fittings with minimal need for paint touch ups. Bit difficult to get enough light into the dark areas of black painted bits-

 

54749983-4323-4CBC-A84C-50D3CFA80E31.jpeg.c36d53b4f02d9933f02495ac4fa3c428.jpeg   

 

The fitting of the Tender to the horn plates went ok and has 8 x 8ba bolts/nuts on each side, plus 4 x 7ba for the axle bearings.

Original design was just the 4 bearing bolts and a single bolt/nut at the top each side.

Quite pleased with the colour and should look plain, but smart when finished.

I even made the steps with a 'raised' pattern chequer plate, rather than just saw cuts. The bright handle fitting serves to bolt the coal bunker plate to the tender side -

 

25A84A66-18BB-4DF9-9A21-0DF819943B2C.jpeg.bdc09bcac34d2e2e75ae3cd2bdc27f87.jpeg 

 

The oil boxes all have filter screens inside to keep the moving bits clean.

I think I will dull off the duck boarding a bit, as it looks a bit 'orange boxy' yellow to me.

Regards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...