Ian 2,417 #26 Posted February 22, 2017 Nice work Norm, yeah cleaning wheels up has to rank as one of the worst WH jobs to do!! I had clearance problems when I fitted the big AG's to my ole 312 years ago.. Had to raise the fender pan by an inch and cut n shut the foot plates to make the tyres fit.. The wheels look great by the way Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #27 Posted February 22, 2017 21 hours ago, Stormin said: By 'eck! Wasn't expecting that much difference. 3-1/4" difference. That throws up another problem. Getting enough ploughing depth. Maximum I will be able to get is just over 4" deep. Could be another addition to the Black Horse topic. The VHGMC horticultural ploughing rules state a minimum depth of 12cm. Just under 5". Not that I'll be taking part in any of their matches. My tractor and plough don't qualify. I put the tractor up on the lift and with the plough hanging over the end, board lying along the lift and plough down, the above depth was ascertained. Now the actuator that does the up and down business, has no in between position. It's either up or down. After much trial and error, the tool bar has been modified. The tongue that goes into the slot hitch has been raised so the tool bar is lower. It was also extended and now has two holes for the slot hitch pin. First hole is in the same place and the second an inch back. This has given me two positions. The first hole gives just over 12cm and the second just over 13cm. That'll do for now and the test will be the Hethersgill Vintage Club ploughing match next month. 2 nigel and S1g reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranger 373 #28 Posted February 26, 2017 You've enough ground clearance now Norm to convert to 3 pt hitch.🏋🏼🏋🏼 1 Stormin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #29 Posted March 13, 2017 I've already said I'd altered the tool bar as in photo below. Today I rigged up a way to put a bit more weight on the plough. Dumb bar weights and a big piece of threaded bar. I'm going to try with just two of the heavier weights, then may add the two lighter ones. 3 DougC, S1g and ranger reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #30 Posted December 15, 2017 A bit more in the Black Horse saga. As previously stated, after fitting the narrow wheels and tyres, the rear end was sitting higher, resulting in a reduction of plough depth. So to level things up I'm doing a little modification to the front end. My idea is to extend the vertical stem of the steering arms that fit into the front axle. I have a pair of arms off the Raider 10 now a parts donor. So the first job was to re-thread them 10mm. Reason for that is that I've only 10mm bolts long enough. I then turned up some sleeves the same diameter as the steering arms. These I made longer than I may need to allow for final hight adjustment. I also turned up a couple of spacers for under the axle to raise the front. The next job is modifying the trailer stub axles I've got, the same as I did when fitting the scooter wheels earlier in my C-120 thread. Photo is of parts so far minus bottom spacers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the showman 4,074 #31 Posted December 15, 2017 I'm a bit confused Norm, the bolts and spacers are on the stub axle where the wheel goes, the other end with the circlip goes through the axle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #32 Posted December 15, 2017 You know something, Chris, your right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the showman 4,074 #33 Posted December 15, 2017 All my Raider 10s have a 9/16 bolt to hold the wheel on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #34 Posted December 15, 2017 OOPS! Senior moment. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #35 Posted December 17, 2017 As Chris pointed out, I made a bit of an error with the arms. Today I set too to correct it. But how to drill holes in the other ends accurately? I don't possess vee blocks. Can't do them in the lathe. So I had to think of some other way. I finally did them as below in the photo. Wasn't exactly easy keeping things square, but taking my time things came out OK. I used one of the extension sleeves as a guide for a drill to spot the centre. Then I drilled the spindle using three different sized drills, finishing with the tapping size. Next the holes were threaded 10mm and the stub axle on the arms cut off to 3/4" long. See photo below. The next job was to shorten the trailer stub axles to 1/2" long. Cut them down to 5/8", then into the lathe to be faced down, drilled and bored out 3/4" I.D. x 1" deep. Below all ready to weld up. 2 Alan and Cub Cadet reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the showman 4,074 #36 Posted December 17, 2017 That looks better Norm, I can follow what your doing now, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan 1,273 #37 Posted December 17, 2017 I've unliked my like on the not quite right post and added it here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the showman 4,074 #38 Posted December 17, 2017 9 minutes ago, Alan said: I've unliked my like on the not quite right post and added it here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #39 Posted December 20, 2017 Got the arms finished and fitted this afternoon. Wheels are back on and raising the front by 1" now gives a plough depth of 6" or 7-1/4". Depends on the position of the tool bar in the slot hitch below. Bar fully in and using the second hole gives the 6". Using the first hole, the one at the end, gives the 7-1/4". Next job is to fit a depth wheel to the plough. 1 Cub Cadet reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the showman 4,074 #40 Posted December 20, 2017 Depth wheel sounds interesting, I'm watching this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites