HALF a HORSE.

[Alan 1,273]

Two little bits this time.  The carburetor attachment tube was cut down to about 1/2 length.  Left long, the throttle cable was rubbing on the outside of the hood and didn't look good anyway.  Cut down, the cable and it's outer spring fitted neatly inside the hood.  I expected difficulty cutting the tube down due to the limited room for the hacksaw, but it was a quick and easy job.  The tube was softer than thought and a junior hacksaw soon went through it taking care not to mark the paint on the surrounding body panels.  The cable is just tucked in out of the way at this stage.

 

 

The brake pedal, non working, was made up from alloy, steel washers and plastic.  The lettering is 1 mm approx round plastic rod with the curves of the B and R from solder wire. The solder wire was super glued in place with the remainder of the lettering and other parts fused together with liquid plastic cement.  The washers, either side of the pivot point, were drilled and tapped then held together with 8BA c/sunk bolts passing through the assembly.  The center of the washers, and the plastic/alloy in between, were tapped 5/16 UNF for a mounting bolt which was fixed in place with lock tight.  This item was just eyeballed up from various photo's so just a near enough copy. The last photo shows it loosely fixed in place and still waiting final filling and painting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[the showman 4,074]

Nice work Alan, another little job done and the list getting shorter

[Alan 1,273]

19 minutes ago, the showman said:

Nice work Alan, another little job done and the list getting shorter

Thanks Chris, but every time I cross something off the list more gets added at the other end.

[Cub Cadet 613]

Nice work!

[meadowfield 1,900]

love the attention to detail on the pedal!

[slf-uk 914]

I have just been catching up with your build. Your attention to detail continues to be incredible, love that brake peddle.

 

18 hours ago, Alan said:

Thanks Chris, but every time I cross something off the list more gets added at the other end.

 

Alan if your looking for another job , an option on the D-Series is split wheel brakes with the foot peddles mounted on the other side of the tractor. They would look really cool on your mini-D and they are fitted to my D-200 if you want some pictures, measurments, etc.

 

 

[the showman 4,074]

1 hour ago, slf-uk said:

I have just been catching up with your build. Your attention to detail continues to be incredible, love that brake peddle.

 

 

 

Alan if your looking for another job , an option on the D-Series is split wheel brakes with the foot peddles mounted on the other side of the tractor. They would look really cool on your mini-D and they are fitted to my D-200 if you want some pictures, measurments, etc.

 

 

Ha Ha, I think you will need another sheet of paper for your list. 

[Alan 1,273]

4 hours ago, slf-uk said:

I have just been catching up with your build. Your attention to detail continues to be incredible, love that brake peddle.

 

 

 

Alan if your looking for another job , an option on the D-Series is split wheel brakes with the foot peddles mounted on the other side of the tractor. They would look really cool on your mini-D and they are fitted to my D-200 if you want some pictures, measurments, etc.

 

 

Already thinking about this Iajn.  Thanks.   Have some parts roughed out.  Measurements guesstimated from photo's like the other pedal but correct sizes etc would be better. No rush though as working on other parts just now.

2 hours ago, the showman said:

Ha Ha, I think you will need another sheet of paper for your list. 

Would a roll of wallpaper be long enough. ?  Thought !  If I used a roll of lining paper I could write on both sides.

[slf-uk 914]

13 hours ago, Alan said:

Already thinking about this Iajn.  Thanks.   Have some parts roughed out.  Measurements guesstimated from photo's like the other pedal but correct sizes etc would be better. No rush though as working on other parts just now.

Would a roll of wallpaper be long enough. ?  Thought !  If I used a roll of lining paper I could write on both sides.

 

Happy to help Alan, I will sort some measurments.

[Alan 1,273]

A few more small parts.  The 4 Tach-a-Matic brackets were cut from alloy sheet. At the time I had idea's of making them working units but wasn't sure of the shape of the pivoting section.  A slot was cut, to be shortened later, but in the end it was decided to make them NON working. A simple drilled hole would have done instead.  Both sections were rivited together at the front. A 4BA bolt and alloy tube formed the operating lever ?  for want of a better description, and secured the rear.  I have since seen photos of these units in pieces, but still unsure how the lever ? works.   Photo's I have looked at also appear to show other holes in various places, so again a bit of guess work was used.

 

 

The mule drive, again NON working, was bent up from alloy and bolted to the underside of the chassis.  The pins which would have attached it to the brackets were bolts with the heads cut down and alloy spacer tubes.

 

 

Knobs for the front of the removable grill were machined from small plastic balls. Drilled and tapped 4BA first with a bolt used to hold in the lathe chuck.  Still need smoothing off.

 

 

All these items still need painting.  Too cold in my garage for spraying.  I can put up with the cold but the paint objects and refuses to play nicely.

 

 

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

Great work as usual Alan . Lists of jobs and the cold workshop factor are a common setback. I'm also getting itchy fingers and want to get on when it warms up.

[Alan 1,273]

19 minutes ago, Anglo Traction said:

Great work as usual Alan . Lists of jobs and the cold workshop factor are a common setback. I'm also getting itchy fingers and want to get on when it warms up.

Thanks Richard. Wife thinks I'm mad being out there in the cold. Probably right. I try to do a few hours most days although a lot of the time is spent looking and thinking.  SLOWLY getting there though.

[the showman 4,074]

Those brackets look amazing Alan, very nice job. Can't wait to see the deck hanging from them. 

[Stormin 4,458]

 'Bout time we had an update, Geordie Boy. 

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

Can't rush a work of Art Norm . He is probably been beavering away since the workshop warmed up. 

[Alan 1,273]

43 minutes ago, Stormin said:

 'Bout time we had an update, Geordie Boy. 

Coming soon Norm.  Lots of little tractor bits plus a bigger trailer lump.

 

22 minutes ago, Anglo Traction said:

Can't rush a work of Art Norm . He is probably been beavering away since the workshop warmed up. 

Correct Richard. Except that I was also beavering away when the workshop was freezing cold.  Were not all softy's down south Norm.  Wife did think I was mad though.

[Alan 1,273]

Careful all, don't fall out of your armchairs with shock, I'M BACK.  Been a while since I posted but been busy, busy, busy doing lots of little bits, altering other parts, making a trailer plus other non tractor boring jobs.

 

Now where to start since I stopped. ?  More little additions first. The easiest were the lights on the fenders. 2 clear and 2 red were obtained from China, where else, for £6 including post.  Hunted everywhere but these were the nearest to the size I wanted.  12/24 volt LED although non working for now.  Maybe later.  A printed label can be seen though the clear lens which spoils the appearance slightly. Not so obvious through the red.  Back and front bonded together so not easy to remove without damage.

 

The front lights were worked on over approx one year, on and off.  Couldn't find anything suitable on the internet.  Lots of flat lenses of the right diameter but nothing convex unless I wanted to pay lots of £££'s, which I didn't.  Looked at torches, cycle lights etc but again nothing suitable.  Tried various ways of moulding them but not happy with the results.  Then tried casting in resin using a small quantity which my son had left over from one of his projects.

 

What to use for a mould.  First thought was to make one but looking around my garage the very thing, lots of them, were just sitting there looking at me.  Sort of.  Spray paint cans. The concave base was almost the correct size.  A plastic ring, part of an old magnifier, fitted perfectly into the base of the can and reduced the internal diameter to the required size.  The resin was mixed with it's hardener, poured, and left to set.  As expected quite a few bubbles were trapped, most close to the outer curved face.  These were sanded out with very fine wet and dry paper.  Took a long time and finished up with an opaque surface. My son used to buff his castings up with polishing compound but while washing off the sanding sludge I noticed the lens was fairly clear while wet.  Opaque again when dry.  A coat of clear varnish resulted in a clear lens. Getting somewhere at last.  Not perfectly perfect but after all this time, they will do.

 

The rims were made up from plastic sheet wrapped around a jar lid after increasing the diameter to the required size. Made oversize first then trimmed down. The inside of the outer edge was built up to form a seat for the lens. Still with me ?.  The rims on the full size D-series were rubber ? speaker surrounds, probably obtained as the nearest ready made unit.  Inspection of these at a show last year showed the word Speaker moulded on the outer surface.  This was drawn to my attention by someone on Redsquare who was answering another members query.

 

 

Reflectors.  Flat plastic discs were tried painted with silver paint.  Not bad but wanted something better.  More hunting on the internet using all sorts of search words, plus a few of the swearing variety, then up popped these torch reflectors. £2 the pair including post, again from, you guessed it, China.  Most small items from China usually take about 14 days to the UK.   The larger than required opening at the rear was altered using two plastic discs. One with a tapered edge fitted into the tapered inner edge with the other on the outer face.  All bonded together using liquid plastic cement.  A 12 volt car bulb fitted a hole drilled through the center.  Could be made to work if needed.

 

The second photo shows the original flat painted reflector disc.  The last is of the two discs at the rear clamped together with a nut and bolt while the cement dries.  More on these lights next posting.

 

 

[slf-uk 914]

Fantastic work on the lights Alan.

 

J.W. Speaker are a US vehicle light company and made the rubber mounts for standard Par36 units, but I expect you already knew that. Unfortunately they no longer make the originals.

 

[Stormin 4,458]

Getting there, Alan.  Best get a move on though. Only two weeks to go RPT.

[the showman 4,074]

Nice work Alan, at least we can get see where we're going in the dark coming back from the beer tent. 

[Stormin 4,458]

59 minutes ago, the showman said:

Nice work Alan, at least we can get see where we're going in the dark coming back from the beer tent. 

 

Yeah! Maybe you won't fall over again.

[Alan 1,273]

4 hours ago, slf-uk said:

Fantastic work on the lights Alan.

 

J.W. Speaker are a US vehicle light company and made the rubber mounts for standard Par36 units, but I expect you already knew that. Unfortunately they no longer make the originals.

 

No, didn't know Iain. Reading the posts on Redsquare I had assumed they were surrounds / mounts for noise making speakers. Silly me.

2 hours ago, Stormin said:

Getting there, Alan.  Best get a move on though. Only two weeks to go RPT.

All done Norm. Apart from the decals. The above post and others to follow are well behind.  I am just bringing the past into the present. Next step the future.

[Alan 1,273]

Headlights continued.  The mount was from alloy sheet.  White border painted on.  Will look better with a decal fitted.  The two holes were the first attempt at mounting the headlights via a bolt through the original painted reflector.  After scrapping this idea holes were cut using a large washer as a guide.  Easier than expected using a very fine saw but had to take care not to damage the paint too much.  Should have thought of plan 2 before painting.

 

Next are the lights with plastic retaining rings held onto the rim with very small self tappers.

 

 

These three photo's show the lights fitted, then the rings painted.  Also showing the bulbs which are just a push fit.  These appear to look cross eyed on the front view.

 

 

As said previously, these lights were worked on over approx one year on and off, trying different idea's etc.

 

The next photo's show hub caps which were quick and simple and were only made / altered recently.  Jumping the gun a bit here but not to worry.   Looking around for something suitable the cap from a deoderant  bottle was found to be a good fit over the wheel hubs.  Black plastic which was painted white.  The end didn't have a sharp edge which would have made painting the red easy so plastic discs were cut and fitted using small expanding rivets which I had a stock of.

Three more bottles were obtained which gave the required four.  The result, better looking wheel hubs and a nicer smelling wife.  OOP's, shouldn't have said that.

 

The discs mounted on a rod ready for painting.

 

The four stages and the rivets.

 

 

Front and rear wheels with caps. The fronts were a nice push fit but the rears wouldn't go over the hub weld without stretching resulting in chipped paint. A few spots of glue cured this.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Stormin 4,458]

Very smart, Alan.

 

And I can't say on here what those spindle caps remind me of.

[the showman 4,074]

Let there be light,,,,and there was light,,,and you could see for miles.

excellant job mate, i like the raspberrys aswell