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Got a coat of paint on it today, the paint is Guards red ( its a tin of red that i found at Johns ). I think thats all i can do except cross it off my " to do list " and try it out sometime

A few photos if the tear down. Its surprising how quickly these Wheelhorses come apart. Someone must have had a problem with the belt slipping at one point and made up a couple of crude brackets. The rear most one was actually wearing away the back of the belt. That Kohler engine is one heavy son of a bitch. They are certainly made to last. The Wheelhorse has been painted at some point in its life and after the engine was removed i found a patch of the original paint, which was quite pink to my surprise. Most of the information i have found about paint colours say to use International Harvester 2150. The closest i can find, going by what was under the engine is Ral 3001 signal red. Now the work hard really begins, cleaning, sanding and painting.

I picked this CASE trailer up in Union, New Jersey (close to 2000 miles from me) for 100.00, it cost almost that to ship it to I.T., no matter. It has a 1" axle, stake sides, these are not very common, so I had to add it to the stable. Also went onto the Osage Indian reservation and pulled this 56" Wheel Horse dozer blade out of the weeds, 150.00 for the blade and I still have my hair.

Yes Norm, that one is from a Planet jr the other two are from a Howard I think. Makes a lot of sense what Henry said, i'll put 2 on a frame and see what happens

You've got an odd one anyway, Chris.

no problem it may tax it grip wise if not power, but its manly because if you had the frame wide enough to make useful ridges you would end up driving on top of the crop with the wheels. Your aiming to to straddle one row whilst driving alongside the other two, so your forming one complete ridge in the centre of the tractor finishing another on the left hand side and starting one on the right hand side.

Thanks for the info, i did wonder if 3 was to many behind a ride on

It all depends on the width of the prime mover, on the ones i use at work they are adjustable on the frame for different tractors and task, for example, a three body ridger is typically set up with one body central to the tractor and the outer two bodies following the wheel marks, you can google "ferguson ridger" to get an idea of what I mean, if planning to use behind a garden tractor, I personally would only use two of the bodies one following each of the wheels, because there isn't the width in the frame to allow ridges to form else.

It goes straight in the slot hitch Norm

If you are restoring back to original spec , rather than a refurbish, I presume you will be removing those Drive Belt Control bodges. If you need to know what was there originally to control the Clutch/Belt operation, use this link to my images and dimensions of the missing bit that is welded to the Clutch Idler Pulley Arm - http://s1190.photobucket.com/user/AngloTraction/library/OddsnSods?sort=3&page=2 Good luck with your project

Now thats an idea wander how much it would cost in diesel and shipping for the sprinter, I like Oklahoma but I think I would have to have an overnight stop somewhere

Don't think a jiffy bag would be strong enough, but Chris could deliver with his Royal Mail Red Sprinter van. If he leaves now he should get to you before the fall. I'm off to now before he see's this.

i think the guy i bought my mg2 from had one of those