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I use one of these Olfa circle cutters. For a couple gaskets here and there it actually does quite well, especially for the price. https://olfa.com/craft/product/compass-circle-cutter-cmp-1/

Here are some pictures of the Champ generator now the engine has been reattached, taken in-between the rain today. David

The same Klinger Statite* gasket paper (cellulose fibre based) I've had for a long time, I bought a selection of small sheets in six sizes from 6 thou to 63 thou years ago. The size I used for the induction & feather valve assemblies for this engine was 6 thou, some later engines use a thicker size and towards the end they changed to using an 'O' ring seal (no paper gaskets). *The smaller sizes of Statite seem to have been discontinued, Flexoid also have the same type of gasket paper in the UK, similar gasket paper should be available from other companies depending where you are. I have an industrial punch kit that also has a compass based cutter, it came from a business clearance company on ePay years ago for a third of the usual price, I suspect a lot more clearance stuff will appear later in the year from companies that are struggling at the moment. It got used again the other day to cut some more air filter foam, there is a point that can be fitted to the centre for locating the punches if you use two sizes that fit in the same place on the tool. The Olfa cutter looks a better choice if you only have a few engines. David

No problem, If one of the old ones are repairable, PM me a photo of it's condition. If it's possible to fix, you're able to send it to me and cover the postage, I'll see what I can do. ...............bit slow.... Wristpin beat me to it.

Re chroming aside I often used to compensate for the wear in the Hayter lever and the similar one on the old belt driven Webb 24” machine. It’s usually the ” anvil “ in the lever body that wears so file it square to make a little flat platform . Then drill the platform to accept a tiny BA screw. Reassemble the lever drilling or reaming out the pivot bolt hole to take a slightly larger pivot bolt and test the locking. Usually it won’t lock because the BD screw head is a bit too large. Carefully file a bit off and try again - until it locks . Back in the day I had a supply of the little drive rivets that Hayter used for securing the serial number plates on various machines but they are no longer available , so a tiny BA screw has to do.

Slowly, slowly forward. Now there will be mounting the gearbox and engine