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Made a proper job of that. I see bent rods before but nothing like that.
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Your not selling the digger, are you Jonathan?
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Second brood of Moorhen chicks this year. Six all told. First lot didn't survive. Cats, crows and magpies. One crow and one magpie contracted lead poisoning.
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Looks a useful piece of equipment, Joseph. And rare as well. Be interesting to see how well it works.
Can't you use a piece of rope to give an approximation of belt length?
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HAPPY BIRTHDAY, Dave. All the best and have a good day.
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Welcome to MoM, Craig.
That engine doesn't have a throttle. The lever you see in the first photo is the decompressor lever. One way to lessen compression to allow you to spin the engine as fast as you can. Then other way to start and run. Whip the handle off quick when it fires.
Without seeing the actual engine, I'm afraid I can't help much.
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If you google Foote Garden Tractor gearboxes, you may find info there. Looks like Foote was taken over by Spicer, or vice versa.
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Been thinking about that myself. Maybe driving around will help.
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I've just got rid of a Spicer off a Husqvarna. I think you may have been able to take the top off?
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Can you put up a couple of photo's of the box?
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I've not had anything to do with the Mustangs. But I think I will be right in saying, the gearboxes will most likely be filled with grease, not oil being sealed. Similar sealed units I've come across have been.
SNAP!
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All the Best, Nigel. Have a good day.
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BTW. When I first got my C-125, the bottom screw was missing from the points cover. Fitting a replacement screw, I found out why. The cover was slightly damaged, hardly noticeable, and when bottom screw tightened the cover was just touching the points.
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Fitted a set of solid engine mounts to the C-125 this afternoon a chap made for me.
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Try a local garden machinery dealer. Or there is Meetens near Preston, Lancs. Google their web site.
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First of I'd replace the points and get a new condenser as well. You may not need a condenser, but handy to have a spare.
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Bit more done this afternoon.
Trailer towing attachment done. Just needs tow ball fitted.
Frame work for the drawbar. Lucky I found the U clamps. The bar had to go there to clear the casting. Couldn't bolt it on as no room to get a nut on underneath. Only just managed to get the U clamp nuts on.
Might not look much, but much putting on and taking off done.
I need it off the bench now and behind a tractor. Then I can work out draw bar position, height etc. I'll have to wait till one of the grandsons visit to give me a hand.
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Been a little while, but I thought it was time I knocked the dust of this little project. Towing the Billy Goat and trailer, due to the nature of the ground I mow, was always going to be rather awkward. So I've been thinking of a slightly different idea.
Made a start yesterday and the Billy Goat ended up like this.
Now I don't want to make any alterations to the Billy Goat. If this idea doesn't work, I want to put it back as was. Some head scratching and ratching about to see what was lying around, I've ended up with this.
The side bars are the second pair. The first ones I made I decided were too short.
To be continued...….
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The clutch is on the end of the crankshaft. Where you fit the belt to the mower deck via the mule drive. A double pulley held on by a C shaped bar. The bar has a pin/clip, that that when removed the pulleys just slide of when the C bar is swung out of the way. That's the best description I can give.
The dents you can see on the pulley are spot welds. My error.
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That blade's a mess. I bet it would vibrate like mad. Good luck with the T1100.
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Hi Martin. Could be the clutch slipping why you lose drive. Is there a big gap between the plates? Should be about 12thou I believe. Easy enough to adjust by the rod to the pivot. What is the clutch plate like? Is it badly worn?
As to the mule drive, what type are the pulleys? The pressed steel ones or solid ones. The pressed steel ones would need the rivets drilling out to replace the bearings. The bearings on the solid ones are held in y circlips I think. Bearings can be got from a bearing factor. Should be one near you.
May even get you a pulley similar.
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I had this '75 Raider 10 trans lying about. So this morning, being at a loose end, I decided to check it out. First thing first, check the oil. No dipstick of course so stuck a rod down the filler/level hole. Nothing! Dry as a bone. Also nothing would turn. Drive shafts or pulley that was still on. Pulley can off quite easily with the aid of a 3 leg pulley. Much to my surprise.
Next split the cases. They took a bit of persuading to part, but eventually did so. What a mess.
Every bearing is seized. As I most likely never use it, I don't think it's worth replacing them and rebuilding cost wise.
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HAPPY BIRTHDAY, CHRIS.
Have a good day my friend.
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