Stormin

Good info there, lads. Thanks! 

Thanks Mark, Hope all's well with you and family. Chassis plans are ongoing, yet to decide which species of wood to select....... meanwhile, I've been working on the 'clamshell style' clutch system design.
Details were mentioned in post nbr#10 on page 1. -
 

 
The steel ring is retained in the whole while I make and attach the various parts, then will cut it up when ready to close the 5/32" dia (4mm) rivets. Also then attach (copper rivets) the friction lining.
The 2 halves pivot on 1/2"dia (12.7mm) rod. the hinges are machined from solid and initially screwed together. Also welding them later before shaping. Quite pleased with the fit and no play in the hinge parts-
 

 
The bits of Angle plate were cold forged to shape with a hammer.
 
Another essential time saving part dropped into the stock for this project and although slightly large, they will suit the style of this project.
A pair of cast iron wheels were obtained, rust welded to an axle. Took a while to separate them and clean up-
 

 
These are just under 10 inches in dia (250mm approx) and are not 'handed', so the curved spokes will be opposite on each side.
I found oil holes under the dirt and rust, so I've tapped them out to fit brass 'Oilers' -
 

 
The paint is the only colour I have in proper enamel, so not yet decidied the final colour. So a good price of a 'tenner' (UKL£10.00) secured these and save me a lot of work.
May even go for a 3 wheeler chassis?.
Regards.
 
 
 
 

Always good to have an alternative source for friction linings.
I've used Auto & Industrial ltd for my requirements in the past. A link for reference -  A&IFS Itd 
I foolishly 'paid through the nose' for a TORO/Wheel Horse PTO plate (rivet on) many years ago....still in my stock!.
The 5min Araldite version is rubbish in my opinion. I always use the Original Araldite and has bonded my WH brake linings to spring steel with no issues. Just needs a longer curing time.-
 
  
 

 
Regards.
Richard
 

Hi everyone.
I’ve been looking for a source for the pto clutch linings. Not wanting to pay Toro prices, I found a company that specialises in all types of friction plates etc. I’ve just ordered some linings to suit the 6 3/4” size pto’s. The company’s name is Clutchfix ltd. Have a look on their website. To order quote the material type - RF40, dimensions 171 x 108 x 4 mm. Price quoted £10.14 p + vat + postage. If you require the older smaller size, (6”), quote the required dimensions. Suggested adhesive = Araldite!
Doug.

It was the Heathersgill Vintage Rally this weekend. Friday was a decent day and warm as we started setting up. Saturday was b****y cold. Sunday the actual rally day was wet first thing but came fine just before noon. Turned out well with plenty of entries and members of the public.
 Below are a few photo's.
 
  Some Americana.

 
Monster truck.

 
Nice DAF.

 
Some stationary engines.

 
Working scale models. Tractor, thresher and baler. Also crawler and plough amd combine harvester.

 
Ex-RAF tug.

 
Miniature steam wagon.

 
Some motorcycles.

 
 

 
Some of the cars.

 
This 1920s Wolseley belongs to a good friend of mine.

 


 
My B-80 and Sears GT16. First and third in class respectively.


 

 
Nice Clydesdale's.

 
 

I have one that runs, my father purchased two machines at an auction in the  mid 1960's one complete the other for parts. Mine is called a furnco load a dump, powered by a 4hp Briggs with a centrifical belt clutch to a  forward/reverse trans axel with a cable operated drum brake and posi lock axel incorporated on the trans. All the operating function labels are in German. I fabricated linkage to operate forward/reverse function and was able to adapt motor cycle cables to replace the throtle , brake , and posi  Iv'e also seen the same machine called a Furnco Powr Barrow. Very power full and well made, will post some pics soon. the clutch works on the same principal as a snowmobile at idle the clutch pulleys are wide the drive belt slacks, when the engine is throttled up the slack in the drive belt allows the r.p.m.to increase to prevent it from stalling, at the same time the clutch pulleys become narrow increasing the diameter of the  clutch pulley which removes the slack in the drive belt. All this occurs within a couple of seconds of reaching full throttle the machine moves  at a pace of a slow walk.

thank you for information Stormin Little bros. have been informed

Thanks guys,
                      Enjoyed making the shroud and working it out as I went along. Done with that now and the engine sports a N.O.S Lodge C3 Plug-
 

 
Be a while before nexrt update,  have to plan for the chassis layout etc.
 
 

Ditto! 

Just about finished the copperwork on the Cowling now which should now provide more efficient removal of heat and keep the intake side cooler-
 

 

 
Carb side additional shroud will be riveted on, as the full shroud can be fitted and removed ok. The plate on the exhaust side will have to be detachable.

Well I got ian to lathe me up another governer rod, and it was a bastard to fit but we got there in the end, we got it running properly and I rode it around at rural pastimes ,it ran ok, I have now sold it on and it’s gone west to wales, I know the new owner has spent many hours working on it since and hopefully he will be posting here at some point

Finished putting the C-125 back together after the exhaust valve replacement. Fired it up and let it warm up then set the carb. Got it running nicely, then I notice oil running down the front of the engine.  Valve tappet cover leaking. So off with the carb then the cover. Made a new gasket and refitted everything. Fired it up and let it run for a while and no more leak. Refitted the bonnet/hood. Now ready for grass cutting duty again. 

I received this message today.
 
from Steve Wilson
Changing the subject a little, I have 2 C125 wheel horses that I was using in my vineyard until last summer. Someone turned hard right at top speed on one of them and the back axle moved apart a little then jammed. The other  was used regularly and I do not think there is much wrong but I cannot get it to start.  Unfortunately the vineyard is expanding quickly, it is extremely busy and time consuming.  I have owned both both tractors for some years and am very fond of them however I know that I will not have time to look at them this year. If anyone is interested they are available free from the vineyard in Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire, at the very least I am sure that 1 good tractor could be assembled. I can be reached on 07812 339556, 01386 840079 or email steve@steve-w.co.uk If there is a better address for this  message to be viewed, I would be pleased to know it. Regards Steve   
 
 

All the  Best, Jonathan. Wishing you a good day. 

Just realised why I couldn't post any photo's. My subscription needed renewing. 
 
 So some photo's of the B80.#

 

 

 

 
   Done some bits and bobs to it.
  Found it had the wrong type of drive belt fitted. It wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding. It now has the correct one fitted. Also had to adjust the clutch peddle linkage as well. Far to much movement and when depressed, the idler pulley was going to far and the belt guide was pushing the top run of the belt down. Tightening the belt and making the gears hard to engage. 
  Minor adjustment needed on the carb' linkage as well.
  Couple of more things needed. Steering wheel is not a Wheel Horse item. So that will be replaced sometime in the future when I can get one. Also correct graphics as well.
  You may have noticed the registration plate. Yes! It is registered for road use and I have the reg' document. I may see about fitting it with lights and indicators. Not that I'll be going far. Could raise a few eyebrows outside the village shop. 

Hi Nigel, Good to hear from you and hope all's well. Quite enjoy doing the beating of copper. Just about ready to stitch the cowl/plates together with rivets now that I've nearly sorted the Plug access hole-
 
 
 
Meanwhile, I had to come up with a fixing point I'd mentioned to secure the lower part of the cowl.
Decided on a split housing so that it can be easily assembled/removed. Machined 2 blocks of Duralumin to identical size, then drilled/tapped to bolt them together.
Excellent machining qualities of this metal made it a rather enjoyable job-
 
 
 
I was then able to machine the inner diameters to fit the flange it clamps to and clears the crank bearing and shaft by a few thousands of an inch (0.05mm).
 It will also have a greased felt wiper washer inside to prevent dirt/water ingress-
 

 
This now gives me a platform to fix the cowl and hold it securely-
 

 
Have lots of swarf to clean off the machines now!.
Regards
 
 

Bashing copper seems to be going ok so far. Part way through doming the top to fit the cylinder head. This is to utilise the 1/4"bsf threaded hole in the top to secure it-
 

 
There will also be a fixing that uses the flange of the crankcase at the shaft bearing output side -
 

 
Fuel tank caps will be more difficult to form
 
 

For those who do not believe they exist. 
 

Yes Norm, very handy and will have a fair bit of work for them on this.
 
Not made great progress, but have machine cut/threads on several short rods and finshed the 8 brass nuts from the 1inch A/F (25.4mm) Hex stubs which are shown in the very first image on this.
Threaded 1/2" BSF and single chamfer . These represent pre-war A/F (across flats) dimension of the  9/16' Whitworth fixings-
 
 
 
Starting on the copper beating now the cushion is filled with sand.
Regards
 

Nice set of little rollers, Richard. 

If you find a picture or the M.E. Magazine, would like to see it Norm. Must have been in a copy before 1984, which was when I started reading the Mag.
 
 
 
I'll have a go at it Ian . Have to visit a Wood Turner I know to obtain some hardwood blocks when I'm ready.
 
Got some Lathe time in recently. PTO work is still in progress.
Decided to change the Brake/Strap set up design and not employing a Spring Steel Strap like the Brake layout on some Garden Tractors.
Instead, I'm opting for a rigid Clam Shell type or external version of a Brake Shoe set up.
Have obtained some 6" (152.7mm) ERW Steel Tube which will cover 2 jobs. Bit of a challenge Cutting slices off with only a manual Hacksaw -
 

 
First slice in the lathe for finishing the cut end to size-
 

 
Will have 4 more of these slices to cut and they will used to make Truck Wheels, as original Cast Iron ones are rare and expensive. 
 
The steel ring is perfect in dimension to accommodate the 3/16" thick Friction Lining and the PTO diameter-
 

 
The bearing faces of the PTO are having their faces skimmed and have been 'Spot Faced' where the Bolts pass through-
 

 
Phosphor Bronze Bearing Insert finished to outer diameter being 'Parted Off' from the Cored Billet-
 

 
Used a 1.1/2" diameter Live Centre in the Tailstock to support the work.
 
'Parted Off' and a light fit in the Bearing so it can be Soldered (200c) in-
 

 
Internal bore will be finished last before mounting back onto the Carrier Plate. They were retained by 1/4" Iron Rivets originally and the stress of 'Closing' the Rivets originally had cracked the Bearing flange edge at it's thinnest point. I will use specially made Countersunk Screws in reamed holes.
Have the other bearing to remove next and repeat  . 

Thanks Alan,
                      Trying to make progress while I have a reprieve from the dreaded R/Arthritis in the wrists. Just to give you an idea of this setup, here is a pic of the rough plan/layout of the working bits-
 

 
So left - right there is the water pump - speed reduction unit, then the engine. A 1954 Villiers Midget Mk2 98cc. Fully overhauled with a rebore +0.030" and new rings etc.
Being static, the engine will need additional cooling, which will require a cowling and cooling fan. The Mk3 Midget has this built in, but blows the air from the flywheel side.
I want it the other way, so have to make the shrouds , fan and drive etc.
Keeping the sort of Victorian 'Jules Verne' style, I'm using copper sheet from an old hot water cylinder for the shrouds, riveting where necessary and maybe some embelishment?
The first pattern from my drawings marked out/cut from the sheet and began rolling to the diameter of 4.5 inches (114mm approx) -
 

 
Fortunately, I have a piece of thick steel tube of the same diameter which allowed me to tightly form the intake area and rivet/solder the joint-
 
 
 
This is now ready for shaping (bossing) to fit the contours of the cylinder etc. A first time challenge for me.
I obtained an old Lignum Vitae Bossing Hammer in need of some considerable attention, so I refurbished it back to good condition and purchased a large 15" dia H/duty leather cushion-
 
 
 
Will have several jobs for these tools on this project and the washed Silver Sand is currently being dried, ready for filling the cushion.....meanwhile-
I had to redesign the engine mounting plates to position the engine inline so I can use direct couplings. I spent the last 3 days marking out, hacksawing and filing the 4 plates after drilling/reaming the holes.
Also made the reduction unit mounts ready for welding up, along with the engine ones at the same time-
 

 
With these parts all assembled in place, the shafts will line up and I can make the direct drive couplings with an allowance for any small misalignment, rather than use chains and sprockets etc. 
 
Regards
 
 
 
 
 
 

Finished putting the C-125 back together after the exhaust valve replacement. Fired it up and let it warm up then set the carb. Got it running nicely, then I notice oil running down the front of the engine.  Valve tappet cover leaking. So off with the carb then the cover. Made a new gasket and refitted everything. Fired it up and let it run for a while and no more leak. Refitted the bonnet/hood. Now ready for grass cutting duty again. 

Finished putting the C-125 back together after the exhaust valve replacement. Fired it up and let it warm up then set the carb. Got it running nicely, then I notice oil running down the front of the engine.  Valve tappet cover leaking. So off with the carb then the cover. Made a new gasket and refitted everything. Fired it up and let it run for a while and no more leak. Refitted the bonnet/hood. Now ready for grass cutting duty again. 

You never know Norman TVR is a probability.