Fishnuts2

My wife and I watched our church service online yesterday morning at 9am I was then going to go putter with my O&R but things started to unfold really fast, we had an idea that there was some victims but not expecting what was to come . By 2:30 pm the shooter was shot and killed by RCMP and we started to here some online chatter of the extent of his 14hrs of terror. We went to bed last night knowing that by the morning we would know friends or family connected to this tragedy. I was correct, we did. Still possible not all victims found yet.
   Give your loved ones an extra hug today. 
😢😞

Horrible stuff as 10% is what's sold here. And, the corn lobbyists are continually pushing for more and E15 but all of that crap really needs to go by way of the Dodo altogether. In my state there are no pumps without ethanol except for small airports and some marinas for boat engines. Some states still have non ethanol available at the pumps.

Not 100% sure if this saw was polished or came from the factory that way but it doesn't have the usual painted finish. It seems like it would be very difficult to polish the metal around the original decal without destroying it. Looks kind of cool nice and shiney. This is the old school type with a real early engine. Recoils screws from the back

Finally finished up the display stand...
 

All cleaned up and back together...
 

First trial run on carb springs.
I'll get the system down better but made some progress grinding the center. Then just cut them with snips but I'll work on grinding the two legs for a more uniform and precise spring. Will have to make some sort of jig. The .003 material seems good and there's plenty of it for making mistakes.

Got it all soldered up, cracks reinforced with epoxy and cleaned up best I can. All the electrical stuff works (in theory) using a meter and a couple of smaller batteries taped together for a power source. Haven't run it to test the generator power.
Had to drill a hole in the top of the tank to get the fuel line all straightened out. It's undetectable with engine on and sealed using Seal All. 
 

 

 

I finally got the entire engine dismantled. Some interesting observations (at least to me anyway):
the engineering on these early engines is exquisite, noticeably different from the later versions this one has metal roller bearings throughout, and some of the cages look to be bronze, very nice piston has 3 large rings no rubber seals anywhere and no gaskets inside- all the machining seems to be really tighten tolerance (no feather vane gaskets and no little rubber induction case seals. The only thing that resembled a seal is some thin black coating stuff that looked like a thin layer of gasket maker where the feather vane gasket would normally go connecting rod uses a pretty cool two-piece roller bearing that is made of aluminum the points are a little different too and have a slotted piece that catches the copper tab It’s starting to clean up nicely. I can tell by the piston, cylinder and the internals that this thing hasn’t been run much, zero carbonization or anything, just a light coating of dried oil/gas varnish. I’m pretty certain I’m the first one to open this one up, didn’t see any signs of others getting into it.

Made a little progress on this just now. Juggling between some paint work and fabricating a display stand for the cut-away engine.
 
Good news, I was able to free the piston. It’s still a little snug but I think it’s free enough that when I go to remove the cylinder head it shouldn’t snap the con rod (hopefully). Although the gear box was pretty much empty and stuck I was able to get it free. The clutch has the little cork pads and they hand seized up in the clutch housing.  I was surprised to see the plastic gear.  The recoil was also jammed up but I got that moving too. SO overall the vitals seem good. I’m actually starting to think this one may not have much mileage on it. 
 
! Before I go and do something stupid I wanted to check in with the experts to see if the flywheel nut on the older models are normal thread or if by chance they might be reverse thread!
 
These older models definitely look different inside, pretty cool (for me) since this is the first one like this I’ve had and opened up.
 

Something like that is well within my wheel House. I'm think'n 3/4 EMT pipe. The difficult part is finding something with the brakes for the back wheel and may already have an idea for that. Haven't looked into the fold down foot pegs but I could make those if necessary. Might have to use an old school banana seat which wouldn't look as good but...
No hurry at all as there's always plenty of stuff on my plate.
Just so you don't think you're wasting your time. Built these and the little Wheel Horse 2 seater cart in my avatar pic..
The Wheel Horse bike is 90% all tractor parts and looks even better now with an old school starter generator K181 engine on it instead of that modern M8. Made an article in a small tractor magazine.

 
 
The back hoe attachment was completely scratch built using some plans off the innerweb. All the way down to the bucket teeth. Used it to bury all the utilities underground. Loader is a factory unit

 
This little wooden model of a RJ-58 was made completely out of toothpicks and also made a magazine. Wheels turn, steering works, levers move, brake pedal works the brake band. The toothpick gives the scale of it.

I'm the guy that used to sell the diaphragms on ebay, probably about 600 of them. I'm pretty much done with that, but there are plenty of fellas that took over. I'm also the one with the two Youtube videos riding a Micro Power,  one was my son and is kinda funny how slow he is going. I sold the one in the video and still have another one that has never been fired up, bought both from the same guy. Good luck finding a Grasshopper, I looked for years and could not find the right size and color. I would settle with a plaid one, which seems more common, just have to find a big one. 

Seems they tried to bait someone with false bidding. Do the questions to the seller go into the ad automatically or does the seller do it? Auto would be nice to shed light on this type of crap so the next buyer is aware of the selling history.
It seems like 50% of the people try to scam the other 50%. In reality it's more like 10% are the scourge but they're 90% of the problem

One of these arrived yesterday
 
Seems quite tidy, now mounted on a common base with the Type 23...
 

Engine now on a wooden base, looks better...

So, Unfortunately I got side tracked with some important work an personal stuff and didn't meet the hobby goals of today with sending @scott mok, @CNew and @pmackellow their goodie packages, attempting a better spring cutting method by shearing out the center, inspecting all of the parts and attachments from a recently acquired Wheel Horse 520-H tractor package deal,  and any other O&R or tractor stuff. Never made it out of the house today. Maybe @JUST O&R should check in so I can find something to send him too. LoL
 But, I ordered a roll of that spring material and a 1/8" W grinding disk. The plan is to pinch a stack of the spring material in between some mild steel for support, get the grinding wheel to fit in my lathe chuck and use the milling attachment to feed and control the stock into the wheel and grind out the center opening of the spring shape. Then either grind or cut the exterior edges for the springs. All theory it will work at this point but certainly worth a try compared to individually hand cutting our feeler gauges. But don't stay complacent waiting for me, cut up those feeler gauges so yours is as ruined as mine is! LoL

NOS recoil springs come packed with these metal retainers. It makes the spring very easy to install into the housing. I reuse them for used springs when servicing the recoils. Clean and coil up the used spring small enough to load into the retainer so you won't need to pinch and hold the spring tension while installing it.
Drop it into place inside the housing and hold the spring down with your thumb or fingers while removing the retainer. Once removed, lightly release pressure so the spring uncoils slowly until it stops. It seems best to lube the spring after it's installed which allows the friction to control the uncoiling speed.
They work great for storing any spare springs if you have extras or spares. Plus leaves them ready to go for replacing damaged springs and protects them from accidental bending
 
You can make your own retainers out of 2 inch pipe. Left one below is cut pipe, the other is a factory retainer. Just use a file to smooth the edges so it's easy to remove from the spring. The retainer's thickness is less than the width of the spring but making a wider piece allows for easier removal. Try it and you won't go back to the pinch and hold panic of an uncoiling spring again. No more because of accidental release of the coil tension. Please send your $50 donation for saving you time and aggravation during your recoil services.

 

 

Found this by accident searching for other chainsaws.
Indian branded O&R powered chainsaw on flickr at a show in Milang in Australia;

 

 
David

Started tinkering with an idea for a stand this afternoon. If I go this route I’ll need to cut the mount, drill and tap, add some small rubber feet to the base, etc. With this setup I could make it adjustable as well and the suspended height will also be ready for a cut-away gearbox some day.  I stuck an old engine on there to sort of get a visual. Of course when it’s mounted to the bar it’ll hand about 2” lower.
 

I’m guessing this one has been listed before on here but I couldn’t find it.
http://collectionneur-tronconneuse.fr/category/ohlsson-et-rice

Looking very nice and well done for saving the original decal.
 
David

Almost done, just waiting on a chain cover decal from Sugarcreek and get the oiler knob on.
 
This little chain cover reminded me why painting is low on the fun list. Sanded and cleaned for the 1st coat then the 2nd coat flaked in some spots because of not waiting for the alcohol to completely evaporate. Start over and strip it for the new paint. Everything went well until a run right on the face of it during the second coat. Strip and clean it again. Then during the 2nd coat of the 3rd go, I dropped it on the floor.   Started over again and 4th time's a charm.
 

 
Being a gluten for punishment, the next project needs a full paint job with quite a few pieces, so hopefully there's no need for a BFH !!!!!
Doing this stuff at night after work didn't really leave much time for patience but it seems time shouldn't be an issue soon. In order to do our part concerning the current circumstances we will be closing the doors after this week and holding on tight until this virus spreading can be controlled. Technically we can still work and operate because of some loopholes in the directive but being part of the problem is the problem. Some sacrifice may be part of a solution, maybe not. But doing nothing to help is definitely not part of any solution IMO.
I'll figure it out after a couple to a few weeks but hopefully the O&R collection doesn't need to go up for sale at bargain prices to stay a float. You bargain hunter O&R vultures aren't eating here! LoL
 
 

It's from the 1962 Sears Suburban, Farm Supplies and Fencing catalog. I have found this catalog to be a gold mine when it comes to identifying vintage Sears Equipment. Finding the O&R listed was a nugget!

The mity moe runs once again !!!

I like the tank. That will be a good stand or you would need to make bracket anyway .

Here’s the cut-away engine after a minimally invasive cleanup job and installation of a recoil starter reel, spring, rope and knob. I’m almost 100% sure I want to display it on this gas tank but I’m still contemplating it just a little bit. I will probably do a bit more thorough cleaning later. Still debating also making a cut-away gear box to go with it.  (I’ll fix the rope knot too, got excited to take photos before realizing I didn’t finish the knob)