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mattblack

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Posts posted by mattblack
 
 

  1. As far as value goes it's worth what someone wants to pay for it, I paid £64 for my MK15 (first one I bought), my MK12 was £10 and my MK25HS £15. The MK20 was £34 delivered IIRC. The MK25's were £30 each. These are all ebay prices for complete unrestored engines. I'm happy to spend more than the engines are worth to restore them as it's my hobby, and most if not all hobbies cost money to some extent.

     

    The 'V' engine was the designation given to wartime Villiers engines, the idea being that the company name and address didn't appear on them so if they fell into enemy hands they didn't give away information that could be used to locate targets for bombing. It's interesting that your engine has a separate plate with the Villiers name on, maybe it was a surplus engine sold after the war?


  2. Hello and welcome from another Villiers fan! I've got a MK12 off a Monro tiller now driving a compressor, a C12 on a 2" centrifugal pump, a MK15 (resto thread is on here), A Mk20 off a cement mixer (currently in bits), 2 ex Air Ministry MK25s and a MK25HS.

     

    I'm not sure if I'm reading it right, but I don't thing running it without the cowl would be a good idea, not for any length of time anyway. It's designed to duct cooling air over the cylinder.

     

    I have a manual that covers the MK10 in PDF form, if you PM me your email I'll send you a copy.


  3. 35 minutes ago, James said:

    Thanks for this information. The pooint that concerns me is that the spindle and the pulley are one. There is a grease nipple on the end of the spindle. Would this be common at a bearing supplier?

     

     

     

    You may not get something exactly the same but I think you'd get something that would do the same job. Replacement may be a sealed bearing without the grease nipple.


  4. Probably teaching you to suck eggs, but I've found when making gaskets with not much 'meat' between a hole and the edge it's best to use a piece of gasket paper a fair bit bigger than the gasket needs to be and punch the holes out before cutting round the edge of the gasket. I've also found that placing the gasket on a piece of chipboard (I use an offcut from a kitchen cabinet) gives a much cleaner cut with the punch than using a piece of soft wood.


  5. Bit of an update on this.

     

    My boss is talking about clearing out the garage where this lives and scrapping it. I'm trying to persuade him that it is worth hanging onto until this virus thing is finished and someone could collect it. I have said that I would deal with getting rid of it. Any money raised would go to the amenity fund of the care home where I work, this pays for activities/trips for the residents. I would like to get an idea of value, maybe that would persuade him it was worth keeping for a bit.

     

    Thanks.


  6. On 12/30/2019 at 7:52 PM, Toma said:

    Who knows what RAL number the early Westwoods like mine had?
    Everyone writes "Westwood orange" but it's more red in the original, although I like orange more.

    The rest is graphite, not black, and everybody writes - black.
    What is it like with the original colors (RAL), anyone knows ?

    Could you match the colour from a sample of the paint on your machine, using a 'hidden' area that has not faded?

 
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