I was about to start going through this engine and thought I’d see if I could get some help first. It looks to be an early model but I can’t see the number until I remove it from the tank (could it be a “J”)? Unfortunately it’s missing the pull knob, which I assume would have been a brown knob (I only have a black one in my spares). I don’t know yet if the recoil spring is broken. It’s also missing the condenser. Anyone know what condenser is correct for these early ones? A picture or number stamped on the back of the condenser would be helpful. Looks to be missing the steel type engine cooling baffle as well but I think I might have one somewhere.
Time for some more opinions and advice. I’m on the home stretch and ran into a little issue with the Mono decal for the recoil. This new decal doesn’t have the curved letters and if I cut the 3/4” hole in the center to go around the oil hole it will cut into the O and N of the decal. I could also try cutting a 3/8” hole just enough to clear the oil fill rivet. This would minimize damage to the letters but I’m not sure how well the decal will conform to that slightly raised section of the recoil cover that surrounds the rivet.
What would you guys do? I could also just go back with a standard O&R decal but I was really hoping to use this Mono decal. I really can’t afford to have a single decal made by someone.
Things have been crazy busy lately so progress on the Mono-Line has slow. I finally got the parts painted. I think this green ended up being a pretty good match.
I started messing with it today and was about to start drilling the old rivet out but the more I look at it I might just leave it as-is. It actually looks pretty good and it’s tight enough it isn’t a problem. It’s better than many I’ve seen where someone has attempted to make a repair. It just won’t have the hole in the center for oil. I started to drill a small center hole but it started spinning and broke my smallest drill bit. For a shelf unit I don’t think it’s all that critical to have the oil hole rivet.
I think I’m going to save this tan colored replacement recoil housing for another project. I have another recoil cover That I’ve already stripped to bare metal since I’m doing a full paint job on this saw. Someone along the way replaced the little oil hole rivet thing with a screw. I have a NOS rivet, has anyone replaced one of these before and have any suggestions? Does it take special tools? I was thinking of using a semi-pointy punch and a hammer on the back side to flare it into position.
After hours of tedious clean up with dental tools the engine is finally free of green paint and I completely went through everything. I’m working on prepping all the body work now. I wasn’t expecting this to turn into a complete re-do but o’well, it should look nice all said and done.
Thanks for all the opinions, I’ve decided to go with the lime green.
PMackellow, thank you for the RAL number that’ll come in handy. I have a can of Kawasaki KX dirt bike frame paint from the mid-1990s on the way. If it’s not a close enough match I’ll look at the Lawnboy color - I didn’t even think to look at that when I started hunting.
You know what they say about opinions but I kinda like the lime green and it will break up the red and yellow on your shelf.
I always appreciate your opinions! I tend to agree with you, I’m kind of leaning towards keeping it lime green. As you point out, it will certainly help break up the color mix on the shelf. I think I found a very good color match, at least I hope so. I have it on order so we will see how close it is.
They do turn up occasionally in the UK, if I'm correct there are two that have made it to the US so far, I'll probably have a spare one available if anyone over there is interested. At least we now know how they were packed for shipping.
I’m interested!
Can’t wait to see the next batch of O&Rs you pick up....
I’m in a bit of a quandary on this Mono saw. It looks like I’ll end up needing to do a full repaint. The lime green sticks well to the parts you don’t want it to and is flaking off the parts you’d like it to adhere well to. I’m just about done stripping all the engine parts since I don’t want those painted. While I’m not at all a big fan of the lime green color scheme, a part of me wants to paint it as close to the original as possible (minus the engine of course). However, with the paint failing and needing to repaint the whole thing anyway now would be the time to potentially go a different route with the color. Many other Mono saws are red or dark pine tree green. If I were to change colors I was thinking maybe an O&R red body and handle with white recoil and chain cover. This would also look nice with the new decals.
What would you all do? I think I can find a suitable lime green to repaint it but I’m not in love with lime green.
I’m just now seeing this thread and a David’s comment about the Pony Express address as Eden Prairie, MN. That’s where I use to live and I actually worked off of Mitchell Road, small world...
Got the recoil done and all back together. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to get it to run. It’s got spark and it sort of sputtered a couple times with the choke but never really got any signs of life at mid choke or run. Sort of seems like it’s not getting fuel for some reason. I mounted a temporary syringe of fuel above the carb and that didn’t work either, even after priming the carb several times. Strange, always a bummer after doing a complete rebuild... walking away for now and will try again another day...
Ok, so I just couldn’t leave it alone. It always drives me crazy not being able to get‘em going so I decided to give it another go. I cleared the carb again and adjusted the needle. Fired right up, sounds great! I’ll have to test the generator function the next time I run it. Now I can sleep tonight...
Thanks for all the research David, this is very helpful! I’ll have to take another look at the M6 threads. Mine shouldn’t be any different than yours. At least now with the correct pitch sizes I can start hunting for the correct screws.
Not sure exactly what possessed me to jump into another chainsaw as my next project but I figured it was time to finally go through the Mono-Line. I got it all disassembled today. The gearbox is set up differently than most of the Orline saws. The chain sprocket is to the outside. Unfortunately a previous owner cut the crankshaft flywheel nut and ground it and the end of the shaft flat. A few of the threads are broken off too. It’s bad enough, and seems overly brittle, I’ll need to replace it if I can hunt down a used one. The screw that holds the chain sprocket was also cut in half, makes no sense to me... I can’t figure out why either of these modifications were thought to be necessary, frustrating when people do stuff like that.
Found this cool shaped 8 oz can. It’s a good size and might make a neat tank for a test stand or maybe even with an O&R engine. Got it all sanded. soldered in the fuel fitting And drilled a small vent hole in the cap. Next up is to paint it O&R red.
Excellent, thank you. I need to get myself a thread gauge one of these days... they have to be metric (JIS), just not sure why the standard ones at the hardware store don’t work
If your engine has clear check valve diaphragm then it's probably OK, if it's the black rubber material (as used for the main diaphragm) then they do go bad, I've even had one where the part of it was completely missing.
I came across one of these for the first time just recently, ended up replacing it with a plastic check valve.
Yep, I was fortunate enough to land this one as well. I actually want to use this one some and I have a project in mind. The first one is way too nice to use since it’s almost new condition, I plan to keep it in good condition.
Those drills are really neat!
Ohlsson & Rice: Early Engine?
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
I was about to start going through this engine and thought I’d see if I could get some help first. It looks to be an early model but I can’t see the number until I remove it from the tank (could it be a “J”)? Unfortunately it’s missing the pull knob, which I assume would have been a brown knob (I only have a black one in my spares). I don’t know yet if the recoil spring is broken. It’s also missing the condenser. Anyone know what condenser is correct for these early ones? A picture or number stamped on the back of the condenser would be helpful. Looks to be missing the steel type engine cooling baffle as well but I think I might have one somewhere.