CNew

Yep, I was fortunate enough to land this one as well. I actually want to use this one some and I have a project in mind. The first one is way too nice to use since it’s almost new condition, I plan to keep it in good condition.

10 minutes ago, factory said:

Yes I have seen similar engines on outboards, can you indicate which screws are missing and I could have a look at mine & see if I can work out the sizes.

 

David

I’m missing one of the small screws on top that holds the cooling baffle/cover to the head and then I’m missing two of the main screws that hold the crankcase cover together (see just below each corner of the red cover with the J-12 decal).

Got it back together, that was a pain!  Now I just have to finish the recoil cover and it’ll be ready to try.

Just got back from the local hardware store and found something very close.

Good idea about the string- I’ll see if I can do something like that.

Indeed, you need another four hands for this operation. It takes two hands just to align the windings with the bearing while fishing the wire through and everything As it all slides together. Then, just as it engages the bearing you’re suppose to somehow use a dental pick through the front of the bearing hole, while also holding a flashlight, to push down the brush and slide it all together. One little slip and snap... just like what happened to me!

Bad news, while trying to get everything lined up to put the generator parts back together the little brush bot pinched and snapped Hopefully I can find a suitable replacement.

Ha, tell me about it... This was a busy week with work and kids getting back to school- not much time for O&Rs.  Are you seeing any daylight yet on your end to get back to some O&R projects?

Making some good progress on rebuilding a Life-Savr. The paint on the recoil spring cover is in really poor condition and flakes off in chunks when you touch it so I’m repainting that piece. It was so saturated in oil and grease that the paint failed. I think the rest of the paint on the recoil cover will hold up a little longer and I want to keep it as original as possible. I’ll be putting on a new decal since the one on their basically chipped off and was pretty faded. 
Thanks to JustO&R I was able to buy a new front shaft seal (Timken/Nationals 342805), looks to be a perfect fit.  Fortunately I had a couple NOS induction case gaskets, the ones that are slightly thicker material - kind of like the cylinder head exhaust collector gaskets.
 

The recoil rope reel was also damaged but I was able to find a used spare one in my parts stash.  Should be able to start reassembly and finish the painting today.

Very cool, always fun to see these in action even if they’re finicky!  Thanks for adding the video for us.

Some carbs use 1/16” and some use 3/32”.

David,

   That J-22 is super nice, wow!  It looks like based on the orientation that it may have been set up for use on an outboard. I’ve seen several pictures, mainly from Australia, with some cool outboards using this style engine. There is a video on YouTube of one as well. 
 

I’ve also noticed that several of the screws don’t seem to be common metric threads. I’m missing some on mine and haven’t been able to find replacements, definitely not standard M4, M5 or M6 anyway...

Yes exactly, that’s the photo in the manual that always got me confused!  I’ve always installed the bearings like you suggest, opposite the manual diagram.

Yes it does

Yes, starting to get tough to find the missing tools but there are several so the hunt continues...

Decided to experiment with finishing out a crude soup can gas tank.  I bought something a long time ago and it came with a soup can that was mid way through being made into a gas tank by the previous owner.  I have the bug to start learning how to solder so I thought I would give it a go and try to finish it up. With a bit more practice I may try to make one entirely from scratch using a can that is a better copy of the O&R tanks.  This one is literally a soup can. The can had a hole punched near the filler hole so I just soldered the intake tube there rather than making another hole in the bottom.  Since the hole was too large for the 1/8” brass tube I ended up using a piece of 5/32” for the main pickup and added a small section of the 1/8” for the connection to the 3/32” fuel line.
 

I’ll probably just use this tank on one of the engine test stands.

So I’ve opened up a couple engines recently and have noticed that sometimes the roller bearing for the induction is in backwards, at least based on the guidance in the repair manual. Which way is actually correct? The manual states to always have the outer cage facing out from the race to “capture the rollers”.  I’ve seen several now with the bearing cage riding against the inner race.

The first photo is an example of how I’ve seen a couple recent engines (including one I just opened up yesterday) vs the second photo based on the manual.

Got the stop switch wired up and got it running. It sounds good and I didn’t lose a finger- thanks JustO&R!

Good call, it was the right thing to do - thanks for the extra nudge to get it done...

Working on a Life-Savr now. Just got a TAS J-12 running too.

Happy now?

I certainly can but then I’d have to open it all back up again and I’m feeling lazy on this one at this point

8 hours ago, JUST O&R said:

He's definitely on a roll. My guess is about 35

JustO&R,

  Great guess- I counted 34 tools

Ha- make that 36. I forgot about the 20A chainsaw and 20A Clinton K-150 outboard...

Looking for O&R Polaris Power Pole attachments- outboard, cultivator, etc.

3 hours ago, Wallfish said:ow many tools are you up to now?

Good question, I’ll have to do a count.

2 hours ago, JUST O&R said:

Clint I think your blades are in backwards?

 

 

It’s funny you mention that. I was wondering about that when I was reassembling it. Do you think the blades will still work ok flipped around or will it get jammed up somehow?

JustO&R,

   That’s a nice looking Orline trimmer. I like that it has the throttle on the handle. That one should clean up real nice!

Rennie’s trimmer project inspired me to work on my Paramount trimmer. It’s a bit of a Frankenstein but nice to finally have it complete. The piston was frozen and had a broken connecting rod. I was able to salvage a piston and rod from a parts engine. I found a reasonably good cylinder head from another parts engine along with cooling baffles. I was able to fix up a recoil cover from misc other bits. Got the gas tank repaired and cleaned up inside. The only thing left to do now is wire up the stop switch (I’m waiting for some wire I ordered to arrive) that goes on the handle. Then I’ll have to give it a test run. It’s got really strong compression now so hopefully all the salvaged parts work together correctly.

Wow, that’s cool to have those FMC engines.  Good thought on the pulse tube For the card idea. It is definitely odd. When I opened up the port it looks like an oil fill but like you said it’s a two stroke so that doesn’t make much sense. That section of the engine also has the ignition coil and no telling what else inside so it doesn’t seem like a good place to have oil sloshing around.  I got it all ready for a test run. I might try the 32:1 gas mix. Hopefully I can get it to fire.

David,

   There looks to be a small oil fill hole near the base of the engine right below the carburetor. Does your engine have something similar? Seems a little odd to have an oil hole but I guess there is some internal gearing that depend on a little splash lubrications. I can’t think of any other reason this little fill hole is here.

Another question- there is a wire going inside the engine right next to the spark plug cable- I’m assuming this is for a kill switch?

Indeed, that has to be a TAS motor made/sold through FMC. It looks like a J-12 or J-15