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CNew

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Posts posted by CNew
 
 

  1. 3 hours ago, Wallfish said:

    Yeah, those wires you should totally strip and cover. Thought they would've been in better shape from your first description

     

    Well they were in slightly better condition until I was re-assembling the unit and the magnet sucked the coil off the back plate. That sudden yank pretty much did the rest of the insulation in...


  2. Sounds good. Looks like mine may have been store in a humid environment, the wires that are severely cracked also have blue-green corrosion permeating the entire wire.  I think if there were more insulation left I would just simply cover it with heat shrink but I think in this case it might make sense just to finish removing the last bits and re-sleeve. Not what I had planned to do with this one but o’well, it’s good learning!

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  3. Now that I’ve got everything exposed it looks like a few of the wires are worse off than I thought. There isn’t t much insulation left.  Is it possible to re-sleeve the wires by breaking off all the last bits of old cracked wire insulation and then just using heat shrink tubing as “new insulation”?


  4. David, John,

       Thank you for all the helpful suggestions.  I think I’m tracking with the ideas but additional photos are always helpful.

     

    Thanks,

    Clint

    Also, it looks like there is a rusty red paint coating on the copper wiring on your coils - did you add that or was it original to your unit?  Mine isn’t just bare exposed copper.


  5. 13 minutes ago, factory said:

     

    SAM_7215a.jpg.36f370c5f60b5c911cade228558a0b89.jpg

     

    Ahhh yes, that’s a familiar looking sight. Mine isn’t quite that bad but the wires are now cracked and exposed like that.  I used some liquid electrical tape yesterday but I’m tempted to go all the way and open it up to add heat shrink tubing.  My biggest fear is the point where the wires go into the copper coil and if that area breaks...


  6. Well, so much for avoiding wire work. Upon reassembling today the power of the coil magnets yanked the coil section from the rear cover plate while sliding it on and pow, there little shards of dried out wire started falling out. I’m going to attempt multiple coats of liquid electrical tape to see if I can build up some thickness. Bummer...


  7. 6 hours ago, Wallfish said:

    Think I'm going to have to post something since no one else is busy on here and it's been a bit dead. 

     

    I’ve been thinking the same thing, it seems to be a little slow on here these days.  Hopefully I can get back after it here this weekend and wrap this TT project up and get on to something a little more exciting.


  8. Nice, that looks like it does the trick!  I have to use spacers like that too since my vice has rough faces. I was finally able to try out my new socket for the head and it was amazing, no issues at all and it put all the force and leverage where needed.


  9. Yeah, I couldn’t really get a very good photo of the wire. It’s the black one and it look so like it has a single crack that goes all the way around the wire. I was thinking of maybe plastidip or liquid electrical tape but that would still leave the corrosion down inside the wire, maybe there’s not enough corrosion to cause problems...


  10. Finally got it all apart. The flywheel key was welded in place so that took more time than anything to finally dig out.

     

    Any recommendations on whether or not to fix the wire and replace the bearing?

     

    A previous owner also totally ruined the fuel pick up tube so I’ll have to make my own version.


  11. Awesome, thanks David!

     

    Some gentle taps and I was able to get it free. It was indeed the magnetism that was holding it on.  Now the fun part, removing the core section...

     

    One of the wires has a crack in it with some corrosion. Should I go through the pain of pulling this apart to fix the wire?  Would it be a good idea to also replace the bearing on the end of the core shaft? Looks like a fairly standard 6201Z bearing. This one spins freely but there’s never a better time that when it’s all opened up...

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  12. I decided it’s finally time I go through a Tiny Tiger. Seems a little strange that I haven’t done one of these yet.  Can someone point me to the Tiny Tiger rebuild thread that Wallfish did, I wasn’t having any luck finding it?  I didn’t get very far before I hit a roadblock. I’m trying to remove the generator section and it’s not pulling all the way apart. It moved maybe 1/8” before feeling like it’s got something else holding it in place. Is there a nut or bolt behind the little plug cover that is in the very center on the rear of the case (last photo)? It looks like someone has been in this one before as the little plug cover is bent up and wasn’t centered well when they put it back in so it’s all jammed up. If I have to remove this it’s probably going to be completely ruined after prying it out.

     

     

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  13. I don’t know about you guys but I finally got tired of chipping paint when removing the recoil cover screws. It turns out that Wera makes some narrow shaft bits that looked ideal. I got one and then took it to the grinder to shape it to the right size. I followed that with a small piece of shrink tubing. This gives a very nice clearance now between the screwdriver shaft and the little recesses on the recoil cover.  Hopefully no more scraped paint anymore...

     

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  14. 58 minutes ago, factory said:

    What did you end up using for the Bowden conduit?

     

    After a lot of hunting I found a piece of old vintage cable cover on ePay that was actually the right size. A little rusty but that cleaned up pretty easily, just some surface oxidation. I wish the seller had more of it but at least it was enough to complete the saw.

 
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