CNew

A-33-13

Yes, some of the 13B engines have some differences in the carb. The later carbs have a little rubber stopper on the diaphragm arm that replaced the little steel ball bearing. Another change was the little brass inlet nipple/valve you referenced. Without seeing the issue up close I’m not sure what to suggest to fix it. If it’s just slightly loose but the actual valve is still functioning internally, could you maybe use a little bit of epoxy or JB to help seal it and snug it up where it connects to the carb body?

Nice clean up! Hate when the connecting rod snaps or twists…. I gotta break down and get me a little ultrasonic tank one of these days…

It’s been awhile since I messed with a 13B recoil. If I recall it’s similar to, or the same, as the larger 20A engine. The knot goes through the inside of the spool hub. Take a look at the manual linked below, there are some good photos of the recoil.

Sorry to hear of the scammer, that’s really frustrating. It’s amazing what some people will do. I keep looking at my Kenco pump and thinking I need to dig into that project. nice to see the tank in good condition with the original decal too! The white housing looks like it was probably from the Sears Mighty Mite chainsaw. Let me know when you open it up, I might have a used crankshaft. I know there a couple different versions of the crank so just send some good close up photos.

Mechanix Illustrated Magazine, March 1966 https://www.ebay.com/itm/234840283831

I always pack the roller bearings into the inner race of the connecting rod (with wheel bearing grease which is stickier), then I gently slide the connecting rod over the crank shaft being careful not to hit the overhang as I maneuver it onto the shaft. Works like a charm…

Yes, I’ve done business with him before- good seller. He does have some seals listed now but the price is a little high. I tried an offer but no luck. On the main home page of this website there is a folder for Ohlsson & Rice. If you go to that section there is a listing that has all the engine diagrams, part numbers, misc magazine articles, etc.

Yes, I’ve done business with him before- good seller. He does have some seals listed now but the price is a little high. I tried an offer but no luck.

Still experimenting. I have a little engine project I’m thinking of trying out a few options to see if any work.

I sent a message to the seller on eBay with the complete head, piston & crank. Said it doesn’t have any scoring - might be worth the gamble, especially at that price which is really reasonable.

I just busted a crank on a seized engine. There should be a little c-clip on one side, remove that and you should be able to tap the wrist pin from the opposite side.

Cool, I’ve never seen a sprayer with a 20A. Definitely keep me posted once you open it up and check it out. I’ll see if I can scrounge up some used parts, hopefully in decent shape.

I’ll look through my stuff tomorrow. I have an old beater 20A chainsaw that is stripped, I’ll see if it still has the piston. Not sure if the piston is included in this one… https://www.ebay.com/itm/234187036876?hash=item3686a298cc:g:kbsAAOSwuWBhQDYD&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAkB8StaffjwMooEwjSl2g9O9GWocNA9X5kA%2F34nltjlIugpI2AyBSPuI2gru%2F83Ph8WDDSUPcYFnMbv6SrvqRh23qyiNnt5rcE0Sxc5OSE4Kx%2Baoeca3cLK70ZNJq5eOUrfE6QniLPZrGr6wNb%2B9DQodjhuUbOSKhQUZcWGukNLUITjyPL5BMqLTH%2B%2BmjkpQEQA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-akmJSsYQ

Yeah, not too bad considering. I was thinking about brazing as well, I just don’t have much in the way of experience. I’m going to have to break down one of these days and learn to weld and get a unit.

$50… Got everything cut and fitted this afternoon - just need to get it welded and it’ll be ready to install.

Making some good progress… I sent a few messages to some metal fabricators just to see what it might cost to have the 10” ring roll formed before I got too deep into trying it myself. A couple got back to me and the cost for a one-off was outrageous. One local shop emailed back and said he actually had one of his guys give it a go just to make sure it would turn out ok (before quoting me). I went to look at it today and it turned out well. It cost a little more than I had planned but overall not too bad considering he did have his shop guy do some labor to test it out. I fabricated the mounting bracket this afternoon. I ended up shaping the bracket to follow the contour of the interface between the handle and the body of the drill rather than just a rectangular piece. All I need to do now is make a couple more cuts on the ring handle to get the size right and then have the mounting plate welded to it. I think I’m going to cut it such that I can place the triangular end sections inside the tube and then flatten the tube to pinch the mounting plate and then weld it.

Can you add a photo of the switch? My drill didn’t have any sort of wiring attached. I’m assuming the trigger on the handle is just for a kill switch and not a throttle, is that correct?

That’s the 13B. I think there is supposed to be a thin plastic disc (as opposed to paper) that the recoil slides on. I’ll have to see if I have an old unit that is open and can take a look. If I recall it’s just thin plastic, might be able to cut one out of a piece of disposable Tupperware, milk carton, or some other packaging.

Can you add a photo? Is the engine a 13A or 13B?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/255900135140?hash=item3b94d62ee4:g:hKgAAOSwbQVjrDWi&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAkLUN0gBS%2FS7J6STCbonZmeLzG1Pdfzjs0rIdLapAG7RjkAAPW2IqIQjtACZYI3r%2Biol808bzrmxMfnZdYBosWdbIJMqe6GdzC4dLshse%2Bs1IRwY4GX8tsEyxkegHdhCEYw9dLX32%2BghipDFoTezpV2zIxlEPi4gMkGGcP7BnorDw%2BLEOGcQK5yAt1ft7C0Gz1g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8rl5JWrYQ

Thinking about it… I have one other small project in front of it. One of these days I’m going to have to just buy a welder, not sure how I’ve made it this long without one. Great idea about the sand. I got all excited yesterday because I thought I found a metal fabricator online in TX that sold 10” x 1/2” steel tubular rings as a standard product but when I called turns out they only make them out of square tubing.

David, do you think the handle is made from steel or aluminum? The corrosion would suggest steel but the welds and shiny areas kind of look like aluminum.

There are a few on eBay right now, looks like $250-350 range for something decent.

Yes, I’m not good at linking pages on here but if you go to the main Ohlsson Rice page there is a section title Brochures, etc that has parts list and other info. I looked up that part number and it looks like it’s the Roller Retainer for the later 13B engine. Go to this page and pull up the info on the 1970s engine.