CNew

Cool, I’ve never seen a sprayer with a 20A. Definitely keep me posted once you open it up and check it out. I’ll see if I can scrounge up some used parts, hopefully in decent shape.

I’ll look through my stuff tomorrow. I have an old beater 20A chainsaw that is stripped, I’ll see if it still has the piston. Not sure if the piston is included in this one… https://www.ebay.com/itm/234187036876?hash=item3686a298cc:g:kbsAAOSwuWBhQDYD&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAkB8StaffjwMooEwjSl2g9O9GWocNA9X5kA%2F34nltjlIugpI2AyBSPuI2gru%2F83Ph8WDDSUPcYFnMbv6SrvqRh23qyiNnt5rcE0Sxc5OSE4Kx%2Baoeca3cLK70ZNJq5eOUrfE6QniLPZrGr6wNb%2B9DQodjhuUbOSKhQUZcWGukNLUITjyPL5BMqLTH%2B%2BmjkpQEQA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-akmJSsYQ

Yeah, not too bad considering. I was thinking about brazing as well, I just don’t have much in the way of experience. I’m going to have to break down one of these days and learn to weld and get a unit.

$50… Got everything cut and fitted this afternoon - just need to get it welded and it’ll be ready to install.

Making some good progress… I sent a few messages to some metal fabricators just to see what it might cost to have the 10” ring roll formed before I got too deep into trying it myself. A couple got back to me and the cost for a one-off was outrageous. One local shop emailed back and said he actually had one of his guys give it a go just to make sure it would turn out ok (before quoting me). I went to look at it today and it turned out well. It cost a little more than I had planned but overall not too bad considering he did have his shop guy do some labor to test it out. I fabricated the mounting bracket this afternoon. I ended up shaping the bracket to follow the contour of the interface between the handle and the body of the drill rather than just a rectangular piece. All I need to do now is make a couple more cuts on the ring handle to get the size right and then have the mounting plate welded to it. I think I’m going to cut it such that I can place the triangular end sections inside the tube and then flatten the tube to pinch the mounting plate and then weld it.

Can you add a photo of the switch? My drill didn’t have any sort of wiring attached. I’m assuming the trigger on the handle is just for a kill switch and not a throttle, is that correct?

That’s the 13B. I think there is supposed to be a thin plastic disc (as opposed to paper) that the recoil slides on. I’ll have to see if I have an old unit that is open and can take a look. If I recall it’s just thin plastic, might be able to cut one out of a piece of disposable Tupperware, milk carton, or some other packaging.

Can you add a photo? Is the engine a 13A or 13B?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/255900135140?hash=item3b94d62ee4:g:hKgAAOSwbQVjrDWi&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAkLUN0gBS%2FS7J6STCbonZmeLzG1Pdfzjs0rIdLapAG7RjkAAPW2IqIQjtACZYI3r%2Biol808bzrmxMfnZdYBosWdbIJMqe6GdzC4dLshse%2Bs1IRwY4GX8tsEyxkegHdhCEYw9dLX32%2BghipDFoTezpV2zIxlEPi4gMkGGcP7BnorDw%2BLEOGcQK5yAt1ft7C0Gz1g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8rl5JWrYQ

Thinking about it… I have one other small project in front of it. One of these days I’m going to have to just buy a welder, not sure how I’ve made it this long without one. Great idea about the sand. I got all excited yesterday because I thought I found a metal fabricator online in TX that sold 10” x 1/2” steel tubular rings as a standard product but when I called turns out they only make them out of square tubing.

David, do you think the handle is made from steel or aluminum? The corrosion would suggest steel but the welds and shiny areas kind of look like aluminum.

There are a few on eBay right now, looks like $250-350 range for something decent.

Yes, I’m not good at linking pages on here but if you go to the main Ohlsson Rice page there is a section title Brochures, etc that has parts list and other info. I looked up that part number and it looks like it’s the Roller Retainer for the later 13B engine. Go to this page and pull up the info on the 1970s engine.

That is odd, initially I was thinking maybe the little aluminum disc that contacts the primer button and lever arm might not be making good contact but since you’re able to blow air that must be working. Still scratching my head… I think this is a one-way valve, so you should be able to blow air with the button pushed down but Not sure you should be able to suck air. That little steel ball would seat in the hole I think and prevent air from passing when you’re sucking. I might have to see if I have a working carb somewhere I can play with to test this idea.

I wonder if the internal induction seals are leaking and letting air past so not creating the vacuum.

Found a cool little TAS water pump. Needs a little TLC but it all looks to be there.

Great to see you back in the action. It’s time we all get back into some O&R projects!

There are a couple used coils and condensers on eBay right now. when you checked the spark after cleaning and setting gaps did you put the starter housing back on and pull the rope or did you just turn the flywheel by hand to check for spark? I’ve had engines where if I used the starter rope it helped turn the flywheel fast enough to get spark whereas if I just tried to spin the flywheel by hand nothing would happen. also, when you cleaned the points did you clean the little posts they fit on? I’ve had cases where the slightest corrosion or oil on the little posts messed up the spark.

i usually just loosen the flywheel nut and unscrew it until it’s about flush with the end of the threaded shaft. Then give it a sharp tap with the end of a wrench (or very small hammer) and it always pops right off. The rapid shock from the impact is what loosens it from the tapered shaft. You really don’t have to hit it very hard, more of a firm tap.

I agree with John, best to try to clean the fuel tube and filter from the top off possible and make removing the bottom plate of the gas tank a last resort. I’ve removed a couple before and it’s a bit of work, takes down patients, consistent heating and finesse. Plus you need a good adhesive/sealant to re-install. It can be done but it’s a pain that’s better avoided when you can. https://myoldmachine.com/topic/4245-tiny-tiger-gas-tank-repair/

I would be interested but thinking shipping from the UK to the US is probably cost prohibitive.

l think this is the modern front seal - Timken/Nationals 342805

That is really strange about the spark. I wish had some ideas to try. There are a couple used condensers one a system if you decide to go that route.

Welcome to the forum! Can you add a couple photos of your outboard? I’m curious if it’s the Aquabug style or if it’s from the 1970s it could be the later version that used the larger 20A engine (Clinton and Wards made a version, sometimes referenced as a K150). If it’s the later version some had a more common Walbro LMB carb and you can still get complete rebuild kits.

This one has the whole muffler and mounting screw… plus you get a few extra pieces https://www.ebay.com/itm/325291990841?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095853%26meid%3D9cda3c028d10481e9d42933897cec9c8%26pid%3D100903%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D20%26sd%3D204095571721%26itm%3D325291990841%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2510209%26brand%3DSears&_trksid=p2510209.c100903.m5276