That’s an interesting pump. The engine looks like a cross between an old Roper with a Cox. Do you think the engine could be a runner without too much work?
Finished the Chug-a-Drill (at least until I find a loop handle or have one made). Took some serious cleaning but well worth it. It’s definitely an awkward tool to sit down without the loop handle. Resting in on either side makes contact with the exhaust, tank, air cleaner or coil.
Good news. After several days of Kroil and Ballistol I put in some tedious time with a very fine pick this afternoon to try to remove as much rust as possible on all the interfacing surfaces. I then followed that with a torch and some gentle persuasion with a mallet on the chuck key. I finally got it free and the chuck opens and closes like a champ now.
Does anyone know how to remove the drill chuck from a Chug-a-Drill? Would it be similar to the process used on a Drillgine- basically chuck up a hex bit and either hit it with a mallet or use an impact wrench turning it CCW?
The chuck is currently frozen up from rust and gunk but assuming I can get it free to at least open and close, how do I go about removing it from the gearbox?
Finally got the saw back together. That took way too long. It’s been busy but it feels good to finish this project. I may tackle the Chug-a-Drill next...
Very cool. I have one kind of like that. I’ll have to look to see if the Merc-O-Tronic name is anywhere on it. Unfortunately the engine is seized up and I hi I it’s missing the little pump. I’ve had the piston/cylinder with some Kroil for over a year now and no signs of budging.
Parts like this don’t come up often so you’re definitely working on this at the right time. If you want a cylinder gasket kit like David mentioned there is one on eBay right now. The seller also has a piston/rings set but it’s the one with the larger style rings. I’ve only seen these on the 13B style engines myself. Not sure if this can be used on the earlier engines.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/193884281789?hash=item2d24675bbd:g:l-cAAOSwlJRgIWUS
https://www.ebay.com/itm/193890235267?hash=item2d24c23383:g:5QwAAOSwtmVgJvEw
I’ve not had to replace rings yet on any of mine but I also don’t run mine all that often or under normal use conditions. Can you add a couple photos of your pistons and rings?
Were the little rubber induction case shaft seals in ok condition? When those fail it throws everything off.
I’ve seen the Octura carburetors but what is this rotary valve people speak of?
Are the Octura carburetors worth installing without the full rotary valve setup?
I’ve been watching that one as well and almost sent a message about the TAS motor but it’s priced so high I decided not to. It’s a cool pump but not at that price.
Love the use of 3D printing to prototype the shape. I’ll try to take a look and see if I have easy access to one of these springs. Not sure if Wallfish might have taken some measurements during his experiments.
The legs need to be long enough to clip over a small metal Rod that sits in the recess.
Picked up another Lancaster like yours David. Super dirty but should clean up pretty well. It was missing the air filter but fortunate I have one from an earlier junker saw that I got a long time ago. It’s also missing the wire to the toggle switch but that’s an easy fix.
I still have a few diaphragms but not the whole carb gasket kit.
Never thought to measure the points rod, I should probably start doing that on the engine rebuilds...