CNew

Good news. After several days of Kroil and Ballistol I put in some tedious time with a very fine pick this afternoon to try to remove as much rust as possible on all the interfacing surfaces. I then followed that with a torch and some gentle persuasion with a mallet on the chuck key. I finally got it free and the chuck opens and closes like a champ now.

Does anyone know how to remove the drill chuck from a Chug-a-Drill? Would it be similar to the process used on a Drillgine- basically chuck up a hex bit and either hit it with a mallet or use an impact wrench turning it CCW? The chuck is currently frozen up from rust and gunk but assuming I can get it free to at least open and close, how do I go about removing it from the gearbox?

Those springs turned out great! Now we know who to call when we need spares generator looks great too, always fun to see another one run!

Finally got the saw back together. That took way too long. It’s been busy but it feels good to finish this project. I may tackle the Chug-a-Drill next...

Very cool. I have one kind of like that. I’ll have to look to see if the Merc-O-Tronic name is anywhere on it. Unfortunately the engine is seized up and I hi I it’s missing the little pump. I’ve had the piston/cylinder with some Kroil for over a year now and no signs of budging.

Parts like this don’t come up often so you’re definitely working on this at the right time. If you want a cylinder gasket kit like David mentioned there is one on eBay right now. The seller also has a piston/rings set but it’s the one with the larger style rings. I’ve only seen these on the 13B style engines myself. Not sure if this can be used on the earlier engines. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193884281789?hash=item2d24675bbd:g:l-cAAOSwlJRgIWUS https://www.ebay.com/itm/193890235267?hash=item2d24c23383:g:5QwAAOSwtmVgJvEw

I’ve not had to replace rings yet on any of mine but I also don’t run mine all that often or under normal use conditions. Can you add a couple photos of your pistons and rings? Were the little rubber induction case shaft seals in ok condition? When those fail it throws everything off.

Yes, exactly like that one.

Very nice- did you have to turn the rod on a lathe to the final dimensions or was the stock pretty close in diameter?

Interesting, that rotary concept makes more sense to me now.

I’ve seen the Octura carburetors but what is this rotary valve people speak of? Are the Octura carburetors worth installing without the full rotary valve setup?

I’ve been watching that one as well and almost sent a message about the TAS motor but it’s priced so high I decided not to. It’s a cool pump but not at that price.

Love the use of 3D printing to prototype the shape. I’ll try to take a look and see if I have easy access to one of these springs. Not sure if Wallfish might have taken some measurements during his experiments. The legs need to be long enough to clip over a small metal Rod that sits in the recess.

Picked up another Lancaster like yours David. Super dirty but should clean up pretty well. It was missing the air filter but fortunate I have one from an earlier junker saw that I got a long time ago. It’s also missing the wire to the toggle switch but that’s an easy fix.

Picked up another Lancaster that might need a cable if you still have any with the black sheath.

I still have a few diaphragms but not the whole carb gasket kit. Never thought to measure the points rod, I should probably start doing that on the engine rebuilds...

Almost, I have everything ready to assemble and then came across another one. The second one was in better shape and I got it running. I’m missing a couple parts on the first one and it also had a damaged handle and is missing the snorkel. I ended up having to make my own snorkel for the other one. Yep, both are the AS400 models with the Tillotson HS carb. I’d like to have one of the later 650 models but $1399 is a bit steep. These are really cool scooters, with summer coming on I’m anxious to give it a try.

Here is a points push rod: https://www.ebay.com/itm/362975352520?hash=item54830456c8:g:9QgAAOSwG5ZenZUz And a complete carburetor gasket and diaphragm kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114353640518?hash=item1aa0021446:g:1zoAAOSwIGhgOwOk The carb lever springs are much harder to come by. Wallfish was able to replicate one pretty well. I’ll take a look in my spares and see if I might have an extra used spring. If you can find some thin gauge spring steel, like from a feeler gauge or something maybe you can cut one with tin snips.

I was toying with the idea of making a military version of the Kenco pump... still noodling on it.

Just a thought. The carburetors look similar to those used on some of the old Tanaka, Echo/Kioritz, and Shindaiwa engines. Maybe there is a float that is similar in size. For example, check out e-replacement parts or parts tree online and look up Echo PB-202. It has a similar float design and float bowl, maybe you’ll get lucky... Here’s a vintage Kioritz float - are the measurements close? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-NOS-Genuine-Echo-Kioritz-Float-P-120-133-0111-0/292981446733?hash=item44370e184d:g:Z-oAAOSwYyVcdEeD Do you still have any of these?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ohlsson-Rice-Vintage-Hedge-Trim-Blades-N-O-S/333655815310?hash=item4daf6fb48e:g:hwcAAOSwbJtfD5rF these have been listed for a very long time if anyone is in need of some new blades...

I asked about a Buy-it-Now offer on this listing but they weren’t interested. Looks like they got a buyer anyway.

Has anyone come across any other photos of a military version of his pump?

Wow, nice find Paul! That was a steal at that price.

David, This is fantastic! Thank you for taking the time to take all the detailed measurements and photos of the handle.