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That’s a pretty cool cut-off saw. I’ve only seen one of those come up for sale. It was maybe a couple months ago and I almost jumped on it. Nice find!

Saw an interesting photo on Pinterest of one of these engines mounted to an aluminum weldment and it had a bent tubular projection off the side for the tank mount. Not sure if it was a complete item as intended or only a partial unit.

Finally started getting into my Orline Hedge Trimmer project. Was able to get it completely torn down and started the cleaning process this afternoon. I’ll be going through the engine too. You all weren’t kidding about watching out for little roller bearings! When I removed the blade rotary lobe mechanism each side was filled with bunches of tiny roller bearings. I was able to get all the old grease cleaned out and set the rollers back in the grooves. Pretty sure I didn’t lose any I failed to get some “before” pictures on this camera but I will try to add a few later, I think I got a couple on a different phone.

David, Do you know what application the military used the Type 133? Was it some sort of small generator or something. I’ve seen a few of these pop up and I have a couple but I’ve never seen one attached to any sort of actual tool. Clint

Cool! Looks like there is another NOS one of these listed on eBay but they want $295...

Very cool, that thing is awesome! Amazing!

David, Good to know, I will tuck that away for future reference, more than likely I’ll need to replace one of these boots at some point. Clint

WOW! I hadn’t seen the before and after photos- thanks for the link. That is a superb restoration, that’s very impressive- nice job Paul! That’s a pretty cool machine and application for the O&R engine. It never ceases to amaze me all the cool stuff that used these engines. So what is the largest known use? Clint

Thanks David, it was just a curiosity of the moment while I was hunting for some other items. I’ve always got my eye open for old engines and tools to try to build up a bit of a spare parts inventory. Good to know now about then 20A engine parts. I still don’t have anything with this engine style yet, I’m still kind of partial to the earlier Compact engines... Clint

Hi David, Yes, I’m still planning to finish building the adjustable stand for engines with gear boxes based on the design concept from your link. This wood base was just a quick and easy one. It’s still super cold here in Minnesota so getting out in the garage to use my drill press just isn’t an option. I’d like to use my drill press to fab some of the parts for the adjustable engine stand. That project may just have to wait until Spring I also saw that NOS 133 engine without the cylinder. I thought that was really strange, buying a brand new engine just for that one part and then reselling the rest. Wish I could have bought the rest of the engine just for spare parts but it was just too expensive for me and did not have the air cleaner, tank and other bits. Clint

Yep, this one wasn’t too bad actually- I think I’m getting the hang of it.

Great advice. I don’t have an engine yet in need of a coil but thought maybe I would keep a look out if there was a known part number. I’m with you, picking up a spare engine here and there is probably the best plan to get some of these parts. Had some fun today working on a recoil starter, seems to be working smoothly now...

I’m curious if anyone has had any luck figuring out what brand and specific part number of ignition coil is used on the O&R engines. It looks very much like it could be made by Phelon. The condensers on most of my engines are made by Phelon and are usually part# FG8095. Seems like if there is a Phelon number (or similar manufacturer from the 60s) that works then it might be easier to source than trying to find NOS Ohlsson ignition parts. The metal legs of the coil look to be pretty unique to O&R from what I can tell but it would be nice if the center body of the coil could be replaced.

Wow- what an incredible collection! What is the yellow cart with a bicycle wheel and a bucket used for, is that some sort of insecticide sprayer? Awesome- wish I could attend a show like this, I would stand there staring for hours.

Finally had a chance to mount one of my military engines to a tank from an old Dyna-Mite generator. Added a nice piece of quarter sawn oak for stability. Now I can fire it up without the engine running off. I don’t think I’ll keep it set up this way long term but it does make for a convenient way to test engines after rebuilding.

Looks like BlueBottle has a couple engines listed on eBay. That Little Wonder engine would look great on my trimmer....

Indeed, that’s perfect. I knew I had seen some sort of description like that somewhere but I just couldn’t recall where, and this was it! I looked in all my info and just wasn’t coming up with anything. Thank you David! Clint

This may be obvious but I wanted to double check my understanding of the governor adjustment on the O&R engine. Which position on the little lever mounted on the side of the carburetor that sets spring tension is considered the lowest setting?

David, Thank you for the feedback and advice on the ultrasonic route. I trust experience over marketing so I appreciate that you’ve used these before and know first hand how well or not so well they work. I think I’ll put that money toward more O&R engines and tools Clint

John, Great idea on the scissor style punch. I’ve got an older set of leather punches but I remember my mom using one of those scissor style punches and that would be a much more accurate way to do it (heck I might ask her if she still has it). Just a general question but I’m wondering if anyone has used an ultrasonic parts cleaner with any success to clean the really grimy O&R engine parts and carbs. I’ve been toying around with the idea of maybe getting one at some point. Clint

Slowly making progress on the Little Wonder. Starting to get into the engine, it’s definitely a dirty one. Found that the previous owner made an air filter out of a dish cleaning sponge pad...

David, Sounds like a good approach with the grease. The junk in mine was a really thick dark grey mess. I’ve used Lubriplate on other engine builds, great stuff. It definitely a lower viscosity than the stuff I’m scraping out. I’ll see if I can find anything similar to the LM2 Lithium based grease you mentioned as well. I did some more degreasing today and I think I’m going to have to go a similar route to what you suggest with gasoline to get everything really clean. I also couldn’t quite figure out how the main gear is removed. It appears to be held in with the pivot fork that connects to the engagement lever. I was hoping to avoid dismantling the lever fork but that might be necessary for the rest of the parts to be removed. Also, thanks for the clarification on the exhaust collector. Mine certainly isn’t super loose but with some pressure can be made to move slightly so maybe that’s more normal. I’ll check the position of the cylinder slots. Thanks, Clint

Hello David, Do you think there is a special grease recommended for the trimmer gear box when I go to put it back together? I was thinking perhaps some general purpose wheel bearing grease but I thought I’d see if you knew if there was a recommended viscosity or special lubricant that might be better suited for this application. Clint

Hello David, I was able to get the Little Wonder all disassembled today and opened up th gear box. Turns out the odd threaded hole is as you suggested. Either it was tapped too deep at the factory or someone extended the hole at a later date, maybe to try to get the bar held in place tighter. The hole in question was indeed the front main hole that holds the cutter bar. Now the fun part, degreasing this thing. From what I can tell it has the original grease, and lists of it - pretty nasty stuff. I’ll try to get some photos once I get things cleaned up enough to really see what is going on in there. After taking the engine and gas tank off I’ll probably do a full tear down on those as well. I noticed the exhaust collector was loose enough to swivel a little so I’m guessing that means the cylinder is not on tight or a gasket has worn out. Thanks again for the photos, those were really helpful as I was pulling things apart. Clint