CNew

Just arrived today - a fully restorable Electro Flow Pump. I wonder where they got that name? The pump's rubber primer bellows is pretty well petrified, so I won't try to move it! I recently finished restoring an Orline hedge trimmer, came out pretty good.

Got digging in parts this morning The first pic is a-20-5-13-7 two different  packages one has 13 rollers one has 16 roller.
The last pic is a-20-5-16-7  all the roller are the same size the only difference that I see is the washers.
All of this were on opened
 

Seems many of those rubber spark plug caps disappear just like the cooling baffles do. I have a few engines missing them. Made this one using an old Champion CJ8 plug and a can of black Plasti Dip. This was the first one but think I can do even better by rolling the edge of the first dip down to make a lip before doing the second dip. Anyway, if you guys need some covers, it's pretty easy to make them. It appears more original than the rubber caps you can buy.
Works well for the stop Kill too

 

I can't check tonight but I think the rollers from A-20-5-13-7 & A-20-5-16-7 may be the same as "20-5" is coded into both part numbers, 20-5 is the roller originally used in A-27-11.
 
By the way I checked several packs of A-20-5-13-7 and they all have a waxed strip of 16 rollers, even though only 13 or 14 are needed depending on which service information is correct.

 
David

Got it all together with Terry's mount, which will get painted silver hammer tone once it warms up a bit.
The belt on there fits but a shorter wider belt will look better.
 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Will I finally got time to get the cove that Clint sent me done. Thanks again Clint. after a little work I think she will look pretty good
a little fiber glass a little bondo and a lot of sanding. still waiting on the decals but should be here soon.
 
 
 

I found one and got all excited but the owner wasn’t interested in selling it.

Added these to the O&R literature collection...
 
The manual came from Alan Rogers at the Tractor World show last weekend, the advert from ebay.
 
 
 
 
 

I got it all together and it actually runs quite well. Still playing with the mixture setting. The air filter has a great effect on the mixture it seems. The filter is a felt material and is clean, so I’m confident things will be ok once sorted out. 
 
The fuel cap revealed the crack in it that was covered in dust and oil, and once gas got on it became clear to see. If anyone has one for sale, I’d be interested. 

Yeah, Allstate gasket for the correct material but you'll have to buy a big piece. One already cut diaphragm is $10 with a new paper gasket  or I can send you a small piece of material for $10 with a gasket if I can find a piece. You could also find a carb diaphragm for something else on ebay and cut it down to to size.
 

I found one and got all excited but the owner wasn’t interested in selling it.

That’s really cool!  I have a similar model with the HU carb. I was able to find a carb kit on eBay.  I haven’t tried to run the engine yet. 

I found one and got all excited but the owner wasn’t interested in selling it.

So between the two engines there were some good parts and bad. Had to dismantle both. The original engine sounded like it had sand it the cylinder , then in the crank case so couldn't use any of those internal parts.
 

 
 
 
 
 
Then it turned out the crank on the other engine was worn. Had a groove from the points rod all the way around it. Found a good replacement crank and changed the whole thing.
 

 

 
 
So I was able to get this far. Got a good engine together.
And BTW, I hate those metal cages for the bearings. What a PITA they are to get back in. It's messy with all the grease to hold them too. It's been a long time since doing them but plastic cages would've saved an hour or two.
 

So the gear box was little bit of a pain. Getting the gaskets right took some time and ended up cutting quite a few until it was right. (looks like someone threw confetti in my office now) A gear was rubbing on the metal separation piece then something was binding just a bit when all of the screws were tight. Nice and smooth now. This engine was done and gone through already because the gaskets looked new, inside was clean as a whistle and still some engine assembly grease noticeable around the bearings. Compression is so good there was a question whether or not to even open the engine but it was worth checking anyway. I must've quit at the gearbox because of the need for making gaskets as the gearbox definitely wasn't gone through before.
 

 
 

Got the inside of the tank fiber glassed this morning. Ground out the cracks a little on the top side and filling them with epoxy.
Then I will patch the hole and should be good to go.
( This weeks project) I think I will rename ( spring project)

Picked another easy quick one to do and sticking with the imports for now. Had 2 of these sent over a while ago and also sold the other one to Jim @usedtoolman with the Turbair TOT. 
 It basically needs a good cleaning but while it's disassembled, might as well go through the engine thoroughly and give it a good freshening up with new seals and gaskets. The gearbox gasket is leaking so a replacement for that will be made. The recoil was already done a long time ago when it was received.
Never knew they're supposed to have handle grips until other pics were posted with them. An interesting drill because the chuck is repositioned into one of 3 different locations on the gearbox to change the rotation speed.
Wait until you see the chrome cleaned up using Aluminum foil. It works wonders on these chrome handles and parts and it's quick and simple. These are in good condition to begin with but even some tough ones have been saved too.
 

Tried using Simple Green. It removed some debris but not all. Then on to vinegar. Nope, no results. Next was 2 psi of air pressure. Nope. Figured it was a lost cause. It got the drill. Back together and it's running. Started quite easily, maybe 6 pulls after pushing the primer button. Thanks to all for the help on this. My friend's eyes lit up when he saw it running. On to the next project...I think I've got a mid 60s vintage O&R around here somewhere...

Got this in the mail today . it had Clint"s name all over it. this will look nice just a little body work
and she will be like new (Clint )
got a man working on the decals think we have them about ready

The taper is what holds the flywheel, and the key is only there for setting the timing.  Just make sure the tapered surfaces are ultra clean, and the flywheel is torqued properly.  I've known guys to skip the key on modified chainsaw engines to get the timing where they want.

Ok, how about this...
 

They go quick when there's a nice new engine available for it. Just need to finish the recoil but I'll do 3 or 4 at a time because once you get go'n on them it just seems to go smoother. The chrome on this cleaned up nice. 
(probably get cancer from the crap that was inside from the chemicals run through it.)
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
Here's a close up pic of those carb adapters

Finally, back together. All that’s left now is to gas it up and let it blow!
 
 

Finally, back together. All that’s left now is to gas it up and let it blow!
 
 

It’s worth a try. I was surprised just how solid that old oil/gas can get. If you remove all the inside parts from the carb, especially gaskets and the little plunger with the rubber tip then you should be able to soak it in carb cleaner. I think I ended up using a needle or small paper clip to get in there and dig out all the gunk.