Interesting Dough. Never thought about the oil mixture... that by increasing the oil would lean the fuel burn. Would the opposite then be true? Like using 32:1 make the engine run richer? How then does the mixture screw on the carb enter into the picture?
Thanks,
John
If you have a ‘High Speed’ mixture adjusting screw on your carb, the later ‘Walbro’ carbs did not, you can adjust the mixture at max speed to suit, (see relevant manual). This is similar to (re-jetting) a fixed jet carb, to compensate for fitting a different air filter or free flow exhaust system to your car, for example. A lean mixture can result in overheating and burnt/melted pistons. Insufficient oil content can result in seizures, especially when throttle closed after a high speed/high load run. (Shutting off oil supply). This happened not infrequently with 2stroke racing motorcycles which had a fuel/oil mix lubrication system. It’s probably safer to stick with the manufacture’s recommendations regarding ratios. Consider car engine oil, modern engine components are machined to much tighter tolerances than years ago. Use an oil formulated for an older engine type, (Usually a high viscosity), in a newer engine with hydraulic tappets etc and you will almost certainly destroy it in a short time. The same the other way round, (a modern ‘thin’ oil) in an older engine, which requires a higher viscosity due to greater machining clearances. Whether synthetic 2stroke oil is really suitable for older engines, who knows? Not to mention the different types of additives in oils, (or lack thereof) nowadays!
One thing to consider, altering the fuel/oil mix for a two stroke, especially one with a fixed jet, ie, motorcycle, is, increasing the oil content reduces the fuel amount, resulting in a potentially damaging ‘Lean’ running condition, if subjected to high rpm and load for extended periods.
Well I lit my fire this morning and with in 5. Minutes the condensation on the roof started dripping every where 🙄 so now I will have to bite the bullet and lag and board the roof, more bloody expence
Very nice Nigel. Perhaps you could have the whole inside sprayed with the foam used on potato storage barns, I don’t know what the cost would be, but I do know in my farmer mates barns, it’s very effective!
Here are a few photos of the 3point “Kit of parts” removed from the tractor. Winch now has a synthetic cable fitted, due to breaking the original, (my fault entirely, a design feature omission! ). A couple of pic’s show where the hydraulic oil tank, (original idea), would have been fitted.
To get the Briggs 8 hp engine running I had to clean and reset the points, after refitting the flywheel and tightening the nut as best I could I tried to start it. The subsequent backfire sheared the alloy key. Whilst waiting for a couple of new ones to arrive,( eBay ), I set about making a "socket" to allow me to reach the 65 lbs ft required. A bit of time spent turning, milling and welding a piece of scrap & a nut resulted in the following, ( see pics ).
I was wondering about how you'd fit towing attachments. Wonder what the bottom pin was for. Neat!
The Hitches are too long when installed to allow the 3 point to operate. The clevis hitch can be left on the unit by pulling the pin, reversing the hitch and refitting the pin. I found it was quicker and easier to have two hitches, clevis and ball, and swop them over than keep fitting and removing the tow ball, now no tools needed! Besides, I need to use up all the "scrap" I collected before I retired. All of this, less nuts, bolts, winch, tow ball, lower lift arms, some pins and the paint were " liberated" from the scrap metal skip!
good to hear from you, I've not been able to do much over the last couple of years. The medication I was given for my bulged disc problem triggered ulcerative colitis, which really affected my life style. Eventually I was prescribed a course of steroids which so far appears to have worked. The problem is, steroids suppress the immune system which is not good considering the present crisis. I should now however have been off them for long enough for the adverse effects to have diminished. I seem to have done more during ' lockdown ' than I have over the last couple of years since I retired.
Having a couple of acres of horse pastures to play in has certainly helped.
The winch is one of the " cheepo " ones, around £40.00p. The cable tied on control handset is just temporary, if everything works out I will make a more suitable remote unit with solenoids etc.
I need to carry out a small mod to the lower mounting channel to allow the winch cable to be run underneath if needed to winch the tractor forward.
Finally got around to getting the "Roper 38" tiller working, modified the hitch pickup mountings to match the 3 point on my C121. My 3 point was originally going to be hydraulic, but getting the geometry right without the whole lot hanging too far back was awkward, due to the under seat fuel tank. So I used a winch instead. This is rated at 2000 lbs with a " snatch block " pulley mounted on the lift arm cross brace, the tiller weighs around 250lbs. I've taken a few photos, but only after everything was fitted.
The name that shows up on the login screen is provided by your browser, not the forum software, you can try to clear cookies and cache and logon data to resolve that.
Cleared everything in Safari on my iPad, user name now displayed instead of email address, no problem logging on now. Strange it only affected R.S and not M.O.M?
engine running I had to clean and reset the points, after refitting the flywheel and tightening the nut as best I could I tried to start it. The subsequent backfire sheared the alloy key. Whilst waiting for a couple of new ones to arrive,( eBay ), I set about making a "socket" to allow me to reach the 65 lbs ft required. A bit of time spent turning, milling and welding a piece of scrap & a nut resulted in the following, ( see pics ).
Happy Birthday diggerjames
in Off-Topic Discussion
Posted
Many Happy Returns, Have a Great Day, 🕺🏼💃🥃🥃🎂🍾🍾🍺🍺
Doug.