I should be able to help, is the coil open circuit or just need the perished rubber wires sleeving?
I'm fairly certain the vertical fuel tank has the same dimensions as the horizontal versions (oil tank on this tool).
The cylinder gaskets will probably leak if re-used, if you need to replace the shafts seals the only option is to use O-rings of the appropriate size. If you strip the engine down it's a good idea to use a large tray to catch any bearing rollers that may escape.
Have you done anything with the gearbox, they originally used oil which either dried out or leaked out, they eventually changed to using grease.
Just a note, the alloy handle used on these (can't see it in the picture) is a weak point , the thin section where it attaches didn't survive shipping on mine.
I think the best fuel mix for these little engines is the alkylate premix fuel you buy in home improvement stores or small engine shops. It stays fresh for a considerable time longer than regular pump gas. I was skeptical at first but now use it in all engines smaller than 40cc.
I'm not sure about that Alkylate premix stuff, there isn't enough oil in it for my liking, also it uses synthetic oil.
But they do have ethanol free fuel on it's own, which I could mix with the Stihl mineral oil at 32:1.
It's all pure speculation unless you have pictures showing both the engine type & the model number (61MX3 ?) on the pump and several examples turn up to prove it's not been re-painted.
The three rather low-res pictures could be from many years ago, worthlesspoint harvests information from ePay listings, but usually only a couple of the pictures.
The muffler certainly doesn't look correct for military use.
As for the drone mention that is complete nonsense, people got confused with the large 4 cylinder McCulloch engine re-used in the early Bensen B-8M Gyrocopter (which can have an O&R engine used for the pre-rotator mechanism only). McCulloch made the drone engines.
OK thanks for that picture, that is a Motorola 1N3491R diode rated at a maximum of 50 volts at 25 amps (date code week 49 of 1973), the 'R' in the part number indicates the polarity being anode to the case. This seems to have suitable ratings for the Tiny Tiger charger circuit and is the correct polarity.
Note: This component is now obsolete, any for sale will either be new-old-stock or relabelled parts.
Question is why they are with the Tiny Tigers, could it be possible they were returns that never got repaired? The manual does mention that they can get damaged if the battery is connected the wrong way round.
The rubber tipped lever is another story....I'll let someone else elaborate.
The older engines used a ball bearing for the valve under the diaphragm arm, this would often get gummed up with stale gas/oil mix, they even recommend replacing the ball bearing instead of trying to clean it, but at least you can still get ball bearings as they are a standard part.
The redesign uses the rubber seal on the diaphragm arm, these seem worse than the ball bearing as they no longer seal due to gas/oil mix and/or ageing badly. Unfortunately the seal was sold with the carb repair kits, same as the brass valve only being available in a new carb diaphragm bowl assembly, I can't help thinking one reason they did this was to generate more parts sales.
The diaphragm arms with rubber seal are very difficult to find now, if it's bad you could replace the carb parts with the older versions (i.e. the carb bowl bottom half, a ball bearing & the older diaphragm arm).
David
P.S. Avoid using any gas that contains ethanol for the fuel mix for these engines, look for ethanol free (non-oxygenated) gas instead, it may be harder to find, but it should cause less problems with stale gas, swelling of rubber seals and corrosion from it attaching moisture.
A few pic of the state of my Groomer Estate 400 trimmer. I have assembled the parts I have found. I need the trimmer head, guards, trigger & cable, and air filter to complete it. The pic of the upper tube clamp shows the engine ignition kill switch. -very basic. The lower clamp is shown. Both clamps are of the same cast aluminum design. The boss on each clamp with the holes must have been where the head trigger cable went. Without pictures of an original or a manual, it's conjecture as to what went where and why. That's why I like my old engines and equipment.
Sadly I don't have a manual for the Estate 400 (only that low-res picture), but can help with pictures of some of the parts, including the trigger & cable, I have a few little trimmer head parts but none of the bigger pieces of the trimmer head.
The stop/kill switch on most of the these engines has always been a simple shorting switch, either the brass strip type or a bought in switch, some of the chainsaws have a more complicated switch mechanism in the handle.
Those are "press fit" diodes, they look similar to those used in the alternator part of the Tiny Tiger, which are used to rectify the AC generated from the alternator windings to supply the low voltage DC for battery charging.
Do those have a part number on them?
I've no idea why these diodes in my Tiny Tor have two different colors in the center, the picture also shows extra holes for the diodes to fit into, those are only used if one fails.
Also available in "gold-plated rust" finish in my older Tiny Tiger.
O&R listed the water-cooled cylinder in the 1962 parts diagram (part no. #A-40-3), I'm still looking for a decent one for my engine, but I do have the large exhaust and an Octura carb.
And I should point out that there are other versions of the White Heat hydroplane for smaller engines than the Compact engine.
The little brass part is a check valve, which is often stuck, here is a quote from @Wallfish in a thread last month about the same part;
On 2/17/2020 at 1:20 AM, Wallfish said:
No. DON"T use carb cleaner in it. It's a check valve with a rubber type of flapper inside and carb cleaner will swell it closed and locked. Hopefully I'm not too late.
BTW
Typcally you can push it open with the flat end of a paper clip or better yet the butt end of a drill bit that just fits inside but you gotta go easy and feel for it. Then try and blow through it to see if it's loose. Once loose you can use something that won't swell the rubber. I've been using citris degreaser for cleaning my engines recently and it disolves that old 2 stroke oil pretty good. Never tried for that but if you can keep pushing that stuff through eventuality it should clean it. then check the valve by blowing the other way and you should'nt be able to. then go back and blow and hopefully you're all set.
When all else fails, drill a hole through it using that drill bit you tried with earlier. That's what I had to do after carb cleaner
I've had one stuck too, at the time I had access to a large industrial ultrasonic cleaner which eventually cleaned the fuel/oil residue from it.
The brass check valve is a press fit, I wouldn't recommend trying to remove it.
I have an Octura engine with the high performance rotary valve installed in my White Heat, instead of the feather valve. It makes the engine sound much meaner and probably increases power output. That would be a pleasant surprise if yours has one. David, have you ever seen any paperwork on the rotary valve?
I don't actually have much paperwork for anything to do with Octura except a leaflet from a UK reseller of them, that doesn't mention the special rotary valve. Does it look similar in design to the rotary valves used on the older O&R model plane engines (before the Compact engine existed)?
David
P.S. just ordered an Octura 1965 catalog featuring the O&R powered White Heat, will see if that has anything in it when it arrives from the US.
What happened to the rest of the parts? I thought the lot included another boat mount & some other fittings.
None of the three engines in the lot you bought are anywhere near new enough to go with that 1977 brochure, is the other one older?
Also I've seen this engine before, it last sold in 2017.
The rest of the parts & literature (dated 1971 on price list) look suspiciously like the parts from this lot (also sold in 2017), but the newer engine wasn't in the lot you just bought.
Contact either @Wallfish or @CNew by private message & they should be able to supply some new laser cut carb diaphragms. What condition were the original ones in?
The later Tiny Tiger engine may use the carb with the rubber pad attached to the diaphragm arm, we don't have a source for replacing these, but hopefully it will still be OK if it's not been run. If not we can advise alternate parts.
I've now had a look for both types of starter dogs and taken some new pictures for comparison.
The middle section of part no. A-139-2 measures approx 1/2" and the older part no. A-139 measures approx 9/16" (from the early Model L engine I have).
And here are the two different types of starter dogs shown on an early flywheel (from a Petro Chug-A-Pump approx engine s/n #14000).
And the same starter dogs shown on a slightly later flywheel (from a Tiny Tiger approx engine s/n #35000).
If the information from the 1962 parts list is correct then the starter dog part no. A-139 was last used on engine no. #015997, after this they should be part no. A-139-2.
If you need the later one (A139-2) then I have a couple of used spares, I don't remember thinking I would need many so didn't buy any spares from Webhead, as I said before I don't have any spare of the older ones (A-139).
I posted a pic with a better view of serial number on 220v unit. I watched a great video on the disassembly of a tiny tiger generator, I spent the last 2 evenings looking for it again, no way can I find it, any idea of where it may be?
thanks again for help,
I have no spark on 220v unit, so starting to take apart and check points
That one has an engine made in Feb 1974, which was the last year that these engines were branded as O&R, in December 1974 they started advertising under the new name of AEP (Advanced Engine Products Inc).
I've not seen any videos that I can recommend, none of them seem to do any research into how to repair these engines beforehand, but then again you've got to remember they are mainly made for entertainment purposes only and aren't really tutorials.
As well as the Tiny Tiger rebuild guide @Wallfish posted, there are others here for the carb & engine, also if you don't have the original manual for those Tiny Tigers I scanned mine & added it to the Manuals thread.
What does money have to do with it your going to get a check in the mail one day.
2 hours ago, Wallfish said:
Yeah, from you.
I need to build it as cheap as a Chinese factory would in order to maximize profits when I sell one to you. $250 -$490 for a little original seat is ridiculous although that's about the price you will be paying for the cheapie! Cha-Ching!
I'm not at all surprised seats are advertised at silly prices, anything to do with vintage bikes seems to be really expensive these days.
Those two Micro Power bikes I have pictures of sold for $1k+ and that was in 2015.
These are the only other pictures I have showing the brake mechanism, the bike dynamo hides most of the mechanism, the unknown make mini-bike I bought uses a simple band brake on the front wheel.
If not we can advise alternate parts.
Petro Chug-A-Saw
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
I should be able to help, is the coil open circuit or just need the perished rubber wires sleeving?
I'm fairly certain the vertical fuel tank has the same dimensions as the horizontal versions (oil tank on this tool).
The cylinder gaskets will probably leak if re-used, if you need to replace the shafts seals the only option is to use O-rings of the appropriate size. If you strip the engine down it's a good idea to use a large tray to catch any bearing rollers that may escape.
Have you done anything with the gearbox, they originally used oil which either dried out or leaked out, they eventually changed to using grease.
David