factory

Can anyone confirm the type of engine fitted to this car? The one in this thread could either be a Model J (gearbox has clutch fitted) or a Model F (no clutch) or a newer variant of those. Oddly the rusty one in the other thread seems to have a different engine with it, that one only has a single stage reduction gearbox fitted. David

Thanks for confirming what I thought. David

That's cleaned up nicely, I take it there are no gaskets for the gearbox? mine certainly seems to be leaking oil from it. David

I've been contacted by a new member about the manuals thread, is anyone else having trouble opening or downloading any of the pdf's? The only thing I can think of is maybe they were logged/signed out and the pdf's do show as unavailable then. David

They don't have a great value, but are usually in much worse condition than those, did you find the bottles to go with them? The power pack goes with the battery operated Sprite, the Flydowner should be mains powered. Here is a rough Turbair Fox than has been advertised for a few weeks, think the start price maybe a little high considering the condition. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114820785127 David

Didn't go past the "accept cookies" pop-up which hides most of the page, but it looks like a Drillgine, these were produced from the early 1960's all the way till the end of AEP (O&R) in 1978, the one advertised has the later type of starter mech which was introduced around 1970. BTW I don't use bookface, too much unwanted tracking etc. for my liking. We have a general sale & wanted section on the homepage, scroll down to "recycling center" to find it. People sometimes post them in the O&R section too. https://myoldmachine.com/forum/24-for-sale/ David

The generator wiring has rubber insulation, very common in the 1950's, 1960's & earlier for lots of stuff, this either turns hard & crumbly with age or sometimes turns into a sticky gooey mess. It's rarely used these days, last failed rubber cable I came across was in a circa 2006 Weller soldering iron, the insulation of the inner cores had gone hard & crumbly after about 10 years and ending up shorting out the supply. The CNC router did a very good job at making those, are there lasers that will cut sheet steel? Seem to remember seeing sheet metal cut using a plasma cutter & using a water jet too at an engineering trade show many years ago. David

Not done anything else with mine yet, but I imagine the chuck should unscrew same as the others, as always check there isn't a small screw hidden inside the chuck, don't think we've found any yet though. David

Nice to see it running again and excellent work with recreating the carb diaphragm arm spring. What did you use to cut the spring sheet material? David

It'll be branded Merc-O-tronic on the bit your missing, no idea why I didn't post this before (no it not mine either). Could you find another Orline and transfer the pump over? don't know if they are any easier for you to find in the US. David

Found this old advert under completed listings on ePay, thought I would add it here (I've updated the title too). Merc-O-tronic min-i-pump model 600 advert cut-out from Organic Gardening and Farming magazine, month/week of issue is unknown but the page shows the price offer expired end of December 1966. David

Might be cheaper to buy another engine than that piston. The gaskets for the induction housing & reed valve must be the same thickness as the original, they changed them at some point in production. David P.S. With ePay links you can cut off everything to the right of the item number & it'll still work. Eg. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193890235267

Unless it's had a lot of use or ingested the old crumbly air filter foam them it's unlikely the rings would need replacing. What condition was the engine in when you took it apart? They will either be the narrow type with a chromed edge, or the later wider type. The narrow chromed type were designed so that when they worn through it showed the iron underneath, at this point they would have recommended replacement. NOS rings are a finite resource and unless they are obviously worn out we wouldn't suggest replacing them. There is a seller in the UK has been offering reproduction rings of the wider type for many years, but none of the narrow type. To add to the confusion the first batch of O&R engines (approx 6000) used an in-between sized ring. Becoming unobtainable in the early 1960's they would have recommended replacing a whole bunch of parts to ungrade it the standard version. You will find the original cylinder gaskets will leak all over your cleaned up engine if not replaced, I was making my own replacements but as we haven't had any engine shows in the UK for some time I've not had the opportunity to pickup some more offcuts of gasket material. David

Another thread with a discussion on making the diaphragm arm springs; David

Measurements from two diaphragm arm springs. Length (L) = 0.571", 0.575" Width (W) = 0.243", 0.247" Gap (A) = 0.130", 0.132" Section (B) = 0.053", 0.057", 0.058" Section (C) = 0.096", 0.098" Thickness = 0.003" Bend at end of spring (top of picture) = approx 0.040" to 0.050" from end, use round nose pliers for this. David

I can't imagine O&R would have chosen a non-standard size for the points rod. The diaphragm arm spring has been measured, will add details later. David

Yes he does have an O&R with the Octura rotary valve (& water cooled cylinder), but it was a bit camera shy when he was restoring it , hopefully another will turn up eventually as I wouldn't expect it will need opening up anytime soon. It's now in the White Heat in the first post here; David

I only sent a message to advise them it was not as described, they wouldn't want someone to claim for this when it arrives and is found not to be an O&R or Orline. No interest in buying at that price even if it had international shipping, same goes for the actual O&R powered tools he has. David

I can't tell you exactly what the rotary valve looks like as I haven't seen the parts, but it will be something similar to rotary valve used on the pre-Compact model engines. The reed valve assembly & PTO shaft will be replaced with parts with holes machined into them, to allow fuel through at a certain point in the rotation when the holes in the bearing plate & shaft line up. You can see the hole in the crankshaft that lines up with the carb port in the sectioned Ohlsson 29 engines. And the crankshaft has a hole through to the crankcase as seen in my Ohlsson 60. Many more engines had the Octura carb fitted than the rotary valve, it's entirely up to you if you want to use one or not, note the fuel tank cannot be fitted the carb above as they sometimes are, unless you want the fuel to slowly leak out through the carb. David

There is a badly advertised & overpriced TAS pump on ePay in Canada, seller thinks it's an O&R, I did send them a message but they haven't replied or corrected it . https://www.ebay.com/itm/114666852338 Here are some pictures I have saved from the listing. David

Can do some measurements at the weekend if needed, should be able to find one without having to take anything apart. David

I've been using 3/32 fuel line, it's a tight fit but will go on the Sullivan 187 filters. When I started I had a slightly larger sized fuel line, but eventually found it was a bit loose on the tank & carb fittings. David

That looks in nice condition, hopefully will clean up well, nice to see the slightly different branding on the sticker too. David

The breaker push rod is 0.837" long when new, O&R recommended replacing it when it has worn to below 0.8". I have a some of them too. Is no one offering replacement diagram kits of the forum in the US? The guy on ebay doesn't seem to offer the correct amount of parts in his kit for later engines or have the correct thickness ones for the older engines. If your check valve is made of the clear material it should be OK, older ones were the same rubber material as the main diaphragm & are best replaced. Would be interesting to see how you get on the making a new diaphragm arm spring. David

Nice find, they look a bit earlier than the P7 engine on the drill I have, unfortunately finding parts for these seems to be very difficult. Also nice to see some original literature with it too, I don't suppose it has any parts info or exploded diagrams in it that could help others? David