factory

It should be 'B' in your picture, for the line that goes to the carb. Some pictures showing the inside of the tank in this thread (post #6); David

I've had a search through the forum and can't actually find any pictures showing the insides of the starter mechanism or what the spring looks like. Would be interesting to compare but I don't have any of the smaller TAS engines. There are some used P7 parts in France, just not the one you are after. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_armrs=1&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=tas&_ssn=vmp-58 David

Have you thought about trying to repair it? I've used a torch to heat the broken ends of some O&R starter springs & shaped them with some round nosed pliers to match a good one. David

Is it just the starter spring that is damaged? and is it similar to the O&R ones with the ends shaped to fit into the starter reel at the centre & be held in the cover on the outside? David

Sorry I can't help with recommending a new trimmer (it might be worth asking the same question in the "hand tools" or another more relevant section or we could move the above post there), but if have any queries about the O&R engine you mentioned in your introduction post we can help. David

@Avidcollector I've sent a PM about carb diaphragms & sent my email address for those scans of the Champ book when you've got some free time, I can then add them to the manuals thread. Yeah, he's worse than facebook! LoL Almost as bad, I haven't managed to save everything this year, saving the US stuff has become difficult too, as I can no longer see some of it since ePay are blocking the webpage I use to search completed listings over there. I have over 9000 O&R pictures archived from ePay & some other webpages, its only about 1200 O&R's as most have several pictures, that number also includes some edited pictures when I've cropped them for adding to relevant posts on the forum. David

@Avidcollector If you haven't already seen it have a look at the carb rebuild thread and while not applicable to the outboard it's worth checking anything fitted with an air cleaner for that crumbly foam that once was the original air filter. David

I'm assuming the rip saw is something like the Comet C/Saw, only really seen in the US and not too common; Are your referring those that rarely turn up in the UK or something like an Orline chainsaw imported from the US? The UK models usually make quite high prices, as there are many more chainsaw collectors than O&R collectors. If you have patience a reasonable condition Orline chainsaw from the US should be around $100*, the problem will be finding a seller prepared to ship across the pond, also shipping is fairly expensive (typically $120 to $150+ by USPS), don't forgot import fees too. David *perhaps one of the US members could have a quick look at completed listings to confirm, as thanks to ePay changes I can no longer see all ended US items.

JIS cross heads should have a dot stamped into them, this doesn't guarantee the thread is JIS though. Just as many Phillips or Pozidrive screw heads get damaged by incorrect tooling too. I have original tools kits my FMC kit engine & TAS J-22 engine, don't have any of the smaller JIS drivers though. David

Not very unusual, it's a Bulgin connector commonly found on vintage electronics, very sensible for it to be the version that normally gets fitted to a mains lead, that way you can't accidentality plug your 12V Turbair into the mains. Why they have used a 5A rated connector when the Turbair is rated at 10A I don't know. Thinking about it there is a risk of a Bulgin mains lead being plugged into the battery pack, I can imagine the battery would get pretty angry if it had 240V connected to it. https://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/Bulgin1.html David

The Champ generator your have is not a Tiny Tiger, unfortunately a lot of folk copy other peoples ePay listings and Tiny Tiger frequently appears when it shouldn't as a result. This is a Tiny Tiger (imported by me), next to a Tiny Tor (bought in the UK); The chainsaws are very common in the US, but only a handful seem to have been found in the UK so far. Tiny Tigers are also very common in the US, most other tools not so common. The most common in the UK are the Little Wonder hedge trimmers. The Champ generator, Turbair crop sprayers and the Bridges Mini-Mota drill appear occasionally too. A scan of the Champ instructions would be great to add to the forum, can you please email me them when you get time to scan them. I'm not sure I've seen the separate page about the carb, the rest I think I have (some of which is available to download in the manuals thread). There are lots of different O&R tools to find if you want to grow your collection. David

We can give a date from the engine serial number, for older engines this will be stamped into the crankcase mounting flange edge on the carb side, the other side would have the engine model or type, for engines made after 1968 they put the serial number & type on the large cylinder baffle plate (aluminium plate on carb side), from August 1969 they no longer put any info on the crankcase flanges, it was only on the cylinder baffle plate. Note: for engines made before June 1967 we can only estimate the date of production, after that they coded the year & month into the serial number. The only sold prices for Perry Aquabug outboards I have are; £66 for one missing the plastic cover & tank and one that sold a very long time ago with the original box for around £120. They appear more often in the US. If you haven't got the Aquabug manual you can find a pdf scan of mine here (post #17): David

I've seen that exact Champ generator before, it was on ePay in February (but not for very long), as I was checking out where it was located the auction suddenly ended early, I was quite interested in the Champ manual that was with it. I see the spark-plug boot got replaced, did the original disintegrate? That Aquabug looks in very nice condition, even has the three blade prop too, do note that the plastic covers on these are extremely fragile and most examples have cracks from where the fixings are, or worse still are completely missing if they have disintegrated. David

Are you in the UK? as R. Perry & Co. are the company that imported the Aquabug from the US, I've not seen one of them for sale in the UK for many years so can't advise the current value. Can you please post some pictures of what you have, there are a few different types of the Tiny Tiger and various hedge trimmers. David

I have the 8th edition & the 16th edition (which is probably the last update for when they became AEP), I would have scanned the relevant pages, but as they still make a version of this book there may be copyright problems, hence why I stick to the stuff O&R sent out. David

That replica starter pull is very nice, once painted I guess anyone would have a difficult job telling it apart from the original. The governor vane should look more like this (one I repaired on my very first O&R, a slightly newer Tiny Tor); Earlier version on a Tiny Tiger; And for completeness, here is a really early vane. Later engines had a governor vane that used a fixed plastic blade, in two sizes depending on whether it was for a 13A or 13B engine. David

Good grief, I hadn't realised you had surgery following a mishap with this saw, hope it's fully healed & your back to restoring O&R's. Is that broken screw a slotted grub screw? I absolutely hate those things as they always want to spread & break rather then come out, much prefer a nice Allen version. David

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought it just held the end of the spring in place and if your careful you should be able to lift the starter reel/spool out without disturbing it, of course the spring may still come out if it gets stuck on the centre of the reel/spool. None of this helps if you need to take the spring out for cleaning. The later starters are a bit different with the large ring clip instead. David

The two folded tabs on the inside of the housing are striaghtened to remove the retainer, unfortunately they tend to snap off when trying to reuse them. New starter springs for the earlier style starter/blower housing were supplied with a new retainer for this reason. David

The hole for the cord is 5/32" diameter and the counterbore is close to 9/32" diameter , I've double checked the depth with a vernier and it is 1.75" (1 3/4"). Good to know the spring & rubber spacer are still there, a few less parts to make. David

Just thought I would mention that the originals had a counterbore depth of more than 5/8", as this style of starter pull knob also had a spring hidden inside. I really should have used a vernier, it's approx 1 3/4" in depth. Of course this design is weaker as a result, hence they are sometimes damaged or missing. Note: the end of the spring has rusted away, it should close up where the cord knot is. David

One last thing to think about when making the new baseplate, I would advise not to drill the holes for the feet to the final size until you've bought some, again I've not found any the same as the originals. David

The original baseplate is indeed aluminium, I had to make a base for my Tiny Tiger model 400 as it was also missing (they often are), one of the stalls at an engine show had an off-cut of stainless steel in the correct thickness at a price I couldn't refuse, aluminium would have been much easier to work with though. I also made the little spacers that fit the screws between the base tank from paxolin rod. The two screws are #10-32 with a slotted mushroom head, I had to order way too many to get the right size over here in the UK. I never did found a source for the Acorn Pal-nut though, I believe the correct part is Palnut AC 1032 if you can find any. David

That's very good advice, the key is only fitted for the timing, make sure the flywheel & key properly fits the taper before tightening too, as there are some differences to both the flywheels & two different sizes of key over the years. Most lathes & some other machine tools use tapered shafts for the tooling and they lock very well without any keys too (providing they are in good condition). I never asked how the flywheel came loose in the first place, although it's not the first time we've had this problem on the forum. If it helps the service info gives a torque value of 90-100lbs for the flywheel nut, use a new nut if it's worn out (1/4 x 28tpi). O&R did use steel keys for the earlier engines, I've found the later aluminium keys are a little too short for the slot in these engines and a homemade key is the only option, as I've not found anywhere that sells the correct size in aluminium. David

Here is my boat engine with the Waltron carb, I found out that it came out of a Fairey Huntsman boat, whoever bought the boat took the engine out & put it back on ePay, I forgot to save a picture of the boat. Almost looks like an O&R Model 20A could bolt straight on to the Landmaster, pity the 20A's are so hard to find. David