factory

If you didn't already know, the carb circled below is a Waltron carb for model boat use, I'm surprized it isn't on one of the water-cooled engines from the lot. This is the only information I have about it (archived from an ePay auction); David

Looks very nice, is it much smaller than the original engine that was used with the Landmaster? David

Be careful tightening those brass needle valves & the housing as they snap very easily due to the thin section, they were available as separate spare parts, hopefully you are able to get the broken piece out. David

They can also be made using a saw & file from the correct thickness of aluminium sheet, or using a lathe & filing the height to match the original (or that custom sized one I had to make). David

The OP hasn't logged in since the end of May last year, so I don't know if he kept it or found a buyer here or elsewhere. As Tiny Tigers are quite common, the best way of finding how much they are worth is to check the completed "auction" listings on ebay, the BIN's can't be trusted as ebay hides the actual price if a "best offer" was made. This is a very dishonest practice, which makes sellers think they are worth more than they actually are, this in turn leads to lots of overpriced active listings that never ever sell. David

Replacement carbs are hard to find, is there a reason why it can't be rebuilt with a new diaphragm? Is the condenser missing or have you tested it and found it's faulty? I have fitted modern film types when they are no good. The model could be either 65 or 67, the Tiny Tiger with the larger gas tank is a Model 67 and the smaller gas tank is a Model 65. They used other model numbers as well. @CNew or @Wallfish should be able to help with a new diaphragm for the carb if you are in the US, send them a private message using the little envelope symbol at the top right of the webpage (it's in the menu if you are using a mobile device). David

From the pictures I can tell you that the carb fitted to the Tiny Tiger looks to be a later replacement, the quadrant control isn't usually found on older TT's. The diaphragm arm with rubber seal and the small disc are also later parts, the small disc was often glued to the diaphragm itself. The Drillgine carb needs a ball bearing, early carbs used the smaller size, later ones the larger size and those eventually got replaced with the rubber seal type as you've found, it shouldn't be too hard to find a replacement ball bearing (if fact they did recommend replacing these when serving the carb). The diaphragm arm spring can be made, here is one thread, I think there was another too; You also seem to be missing the little roller that fits under the spring, these can also be made from appropriate size steel rod. David P.S. thanks for confirming the serial number, sometimes the generator has a another number on a decal, but the engine SN is the only one that can be used for dating these.

Type 111 is the model of engine commonly used for the earlier Tiny Tiger generators, if #26152 was found stamped into the crankcase, then I would estimate it was made around 1962. Note: we can't accurately date any engine made before July 1967. That is correct, engine #93xxxx was made in March 1969. David

Welcome to the forum. You should be fine with a set of the more common A-139-2 starter dogs, according to my information they were used on engines after SN #015997. The washers under the starter dogs are not needed, neither are original parts. As you've found mixing parts is a major problem with these older engines, the flywheels varied quite a bit with the older engines. Also the flywheel key changed size & material too, I had to make a custom size flywheel key when I had to use a later flywheel on an older engine, the flywheel would not seat properly with the steel key and the aluminium key was too short for the older crankshaft. The starter pull knob for the Tiny Tiger would be the longer painted type, there were some NOS ones on eBay but I think they've all sold now, apart from those I've never seen any others of that type advertised for sale. David

The broken con-rod has a twist to it, this happens when someone finds a stuck engine (usually from long term storage or running without oil) and unscrews the cylinder without first attempting to free up the stuck piston, guaranteeing a snapped con-rod. I've only had one engine so far with a snapped con-rod, it was in an almost unused looking Champ generator which I suspect the original owner didn't bother to add any oil to the fuel, I did manage to remove the stuck piston but never could get the rings off it. As it used the later 14mm cylinder & oiling had failed to move it, the piston got pressed out (do-not try this with older 10mm cylinders). I've also had another stuck engine with a holey piston, that too came out without any more damage (left oil in cylinder over a few days/week). David

Glad to see you got that collection of engines & parts, I did see them & they were local to me but completely forgot about them, as I've been too busy with work & not had much free time to do anything at home, it's total chaos at the moment. David

I've got a few of the O&R model plane engines in my collection but haven't tried to run any of them, none of them had a coil with them but modern small ignition coils are still made, here is one I found with a quick search; http://www.springmillsmfg.com/model-airplaine-ignition-coils.html The coils would have been used with the points in the engine, capacitor across the points and a low voltage battery pack. Later on O&R started offering glow plugs for these to compete with other manufacturers, this was a big mistake as they tended to run too hot causing the alloy con-rod to fail, they later used a steel con-rod which resulted in the cylinder heads being blown off. This gave the O&R model engines a very bad reputation, they eventually they stopped making them and went into producing the larger Compact Industrial engines from the 1960's onwards. David

@1olddog I managed to retrieve the Model J at the weekend and as it was nice & sunny I took some good pictures outside. It has the correct decals that would have been on your engine (note: there is no "stop" decal). If you still want better pictures I can email them to you. David

I tried & failed to win one of the lots with a couple of these in too, ended up risking buying a couple of the expensive NOS ones in black (with ePay's global shipping scrapping programme) that another seller had. David

Interesting stand, is that an recycled maglite? Never-mind I've answered my own question as it's on ePay; https://www.ebay.com/itm/224170372048 David

I've added a picture of the kit & some more info to your original thread. David

Starter rebuild info for the model 13B engine here; This shows the bike mounting kit & other parts, the mounting kits were supplied with a selection of different parts to suit different bike frames. The parts list for the earlier version with standard O&R exhaust & engine mounted gas tank. David

The starters are really fragile, forcing them to try & turn a stuck engine or gearbox will usually end up with a broken starter spring or cord. If the engine is stuck, add a teaspoon of oil to the inside of the cylinder & leave it for a few days or a week, then remove the starter housing and try turning the engine with the flywheel, I've freed many this way, including one where someone stuck a hole through the piston trying to hammer it. Another thing to note, never unscrew the cylinder if the piston is stuck as a broken con-rod will be guaranteed. The missing parts are the air cleaner assembly, gas tank, twist grip throttle control and the bike mounting kit. $25 is a bargain, they normally sell for $100+ for an average condition one, to a lot more for mint boxed ones. David

There is a picture of another (later ?) version of the Irvington winch in the 1967 Mechanix Illustrated magazine you bought a while ago, it's the article that mentions the Mt Everest expedition, I hope to find some archive pictures one day that show & confirm which O&R powered winch they used. Looking at the Irvington winch I can imagine that some of them have probably had the name wiped off making them hard to identify & find, the label looks to be the type that the print easily disappears from if you accidentality use the wrong cleaner. David P.S. "Irvington" added to title to make it easier for people find this post when searching for information on the web.

That looks in nice condition, looks barely used, you seem to be missing a screw for the cooling baffle. We need to find someone that can make a few replicas of the lacquered pull knob. David

Nice to see, but when did the Tarpen engine change from a Mini-Engine to a Little Engine, did the magazine editor change it? David

Looks in nice condition, hopefully it will be a straightforward rebuild, I still haven't got round to trying those new seals in my early engine, work keeps getting in the way. David

The modern versions of the Champion spark-plugs used for the O&R's tend to not have the removable screw fixing for the HT lead that the originals did, they should really give them a different part number as they aren't the same. I first found this with the CJ8 used for the later engines with the 14mm hole in the cylinder, only bought NOS of the other types after that. David

Here is another pump that your engine could have been part of, there is no branding on this one (if it had a decal it's long gone). The engine SN of this one is #005790. David

That doesn't look too bad, did you find something for the two tank decals? I have seen a few others on chainsaw forums, there are probably a few unidentifiable ones out there too given how easy the decals get damaged. Whether other collectors would want to restore them to new condition & replace the decal, I just don't know. David