factory

According to all the info I have, a standard A-47-11 flywheel should be fitted to s/n 063124. There were some incompatible flywheel & starter-dogs for older engines (not a problem here as they must also be missing) and the earliest engines need a different flywheel, due to the crankcase casting differences. We had a count on here a while back, I can't remember who had the most O&R tools at the time, I think we set the rule as counting different designs and not counting identical products with multiple brands, nor duplicates. Problem is I haven't maintained my list, with all everything that has happened in the last year & a half, I lost several relatives and for a while hobbies got sidelined while we dealt with sorting & moving my Grandparents collection & everything else they filled the house with. David

My older pictures were from a old compact digital camera, I still use it occasionally, but mostly use my Sony phone these days, it takes quite good pictures when I manage to hold it steady . There is a window in the roof that gets good light during the day, but lighting can be very tricky in the evening, need to get round to adding some more lights above the workbench, I even have some I fluro units I salvaged from a relatives garage ready (I can't stand LED lighting, they only seem to be made in way too bright). David

Having looked at one of the carbs with the primer button, I can tell you that the hole for the primer mechanism is larger than the hole that nail is fitted through. I suspect your carb top is one of the later ones where they omitted the primer function for some unknown reason, we have seen these on a few later engines, for example this generator I have has the later blank carb top. But oddly my 1978 Drillgine (AEP branded) does have the primer button, it has the same type 13B403 engine as your 1975 Drillgine. David

I've checked a second governor vane today, from s/n 015990, the length of the vane shaft is the same at 3½". The flat at the vane end is the same at 31/32", note the pressed notches that line up with & hold the vane flag in position, I guess these might not be necessary with modern glue. The other flattened end differs slightly in length, the one I measured the other day was 3/8", this one is 1/32" shorter, this doesn't make any difference as neither go all the way into the carb butterfly valve. A couple more pictures, one showing the vane in place and the second the sleeved pin it rests against. And finally a couple of pictures to show the shape of the butterfly valve lever, that the governor vane fits into. David

John, in case you didn't know, that carb body is from one of the first 6000 engines and has no provision for the idle stop screw adjustment. David

I'm glad someone asked for the Type of that Polaris snowblower engine, I see the seller has added the picture showing the Type 135, unfortunately it's not what you want as it has the double reduction gearbox, not confirmed but probably 900 rpm (same goes for the Type 144 I have on my Polaris power head). David

Here are some sizes for the governor vane. It might not be obvious from the picture, but is it notched to hold the flag section in place. I will check the one from s/n 015990 on Wednesday afternoon, as I suspect the 31/32" might be approx 1". You might want some pictures showing the shape of the butterfly valve "stop lever" piece, from the carb too. David

Note: engine Type 181 mentioned yesterday is the Chicken Power engine and the PTO sticks out the opposite side of the gearbox. Type 201 is also the same. David

Engines Model D (no clutch) & G (with clutch) are also 3300 rpm. Have you found something that needs one of these? David

I'll try & find that type of governor vane to measure and have a look at engine s/n 015990 I have. The bottom half of the carb was only offered as a complete assembly, the lever isn't intended to be removable. It's possible one could be obtained from a carb with a damaged casting and reattached with careful soldering/brazing (to avoid melting the casting), but there isn't much left to attach to in your pictures. David

Engine Type 185 is one used some Orline chainsaws, but it's only 1700rpm. There are engine with gearboxes for 3300rpm, Type 181, 194 (CW), 200 (CW) and 201 (CCW) are some. David

It's possible the primer mechanism fell off, they are only held together by the end being pressed together, onto the brass disc inside. Maybe it can be repaired by making some parts to fit. The diaphragm arm spring should be on top of the diaphragm arm, to hold the seal down, as shown below. You probably also need to clean the filters in the fuel line & brass check valve (if fitted), clean the tank and fit new fuel lines. As well as replace the diaphragm itself and fit new air filter foam. David

It can't stand watching those videos, why they didn't do some research (or ask) on the correct way to take these engines apart I don't know. Some-things you should not copy from that video; They remove the flywheel by levering with screwdrivers, correct way is to loosen nut and hold flywheel and tap the nut/shaft with hammer to free the flywheel from the taper. The use of flat nose pliers to reshape broken starter spring, great way to ensure a sharp bend that breaks easily, use round nose instead. Ruins the later type fuel line check valve, why are they hammering it back with the carb assembled? They couldn't even find a small spanner/nutspinner to undo the needle valve assembly from the carb, it's very easy to snap this part if overtightened. We have since found out the little disc was glued to the diaphragm, in these later carbs And the less said about "hand tool rescue" hitting the flywheel fins with a hammer the better and ruining an original tool by repainting it badly. I see it was a AEP branded Drillgine once too, this history is lost with the terrible paint job. Neither video does anything to service & replace the dried out grease in the gearbox, it's most likely the engine shaft seals are bad too, some are non-serviceable in later production engines. David

Please can you double check the engine type, as my information gives a Carbra (French) Hedge Clipper as having engine type 169, it should be a type 109 (C) for the Comet pump. David

Some pictures of the type of governor vane for earlier engines such as your type 169, pictures were taken a while ago, need to measure one for the length of the missing shaft. For reference the above vane belongs to this very early engine with no serial number. Also found in my archived pictures from ebay, another picture from a Comet manual. I believe I have only one of these impeller pumps (used on many variants of O&R pumps) that has an intact impeller, if only we could find something else that uses it, we have tried many times without success so far. And given the age of your engine, it's highly likely that the carb could still have one of these perished rubber check valves, its is recommended to replace with the later mylar type, which carried the same part number (replicas are available if you haven't got one). Some pictures of a carb showing the butterfly valve part that is missing from your carb, note some engines do not have the primer button (both early & certain types of late production). David

Please either post some pictures of the engine or tell us the serial number and I can add some pictures of the most appropriate governor vane for your engine, as you mentioned you wanted to make one in the other thread. Also I'm not sure why you would want to change the carb if it's running. David

The governor vane should look something like these (design & materials vary depending on engine age), the vane is permanently attached to the vane shaft. The governor vane shaft fits into the carb butterfly valve as shown. It's a loose fit and if the vane has been bent or damaged it can rattle out when running, this also results in over-speeding, my first O&R did exactly this. David

Possibly either the fuel line is cracked, or the carb needs cleaning, the small parts get gummed up with dried out oil. A few on here have had the spring corroded away too. I don't have any literature for the Comet pump, in most of these small pumps the rubber impeller has failed, note: they should never be run dry, as this is the quickest way to ruin them. David

I don't think I've added any Comet manuals to the sticky thread, but the engine diagrams are there. These pictures from the Comet manual are not mine, they were uploaded by @neons a few years ago. Hope they help, I do have some Comet literature, but not that manual AFAIK. It's been a while since I've been on here, been quite busy since going back to work, also been helping my Dad sort & clear my Grandparents house, they both passed away earlier this year in care. I've also had to rebuild my computer as the motherboard failed, new machine is much better & quicker, but just not got everything back on it, the Office disc has vanished, I was using that to create the pdf's. David

Bit late but Nice to see another with the Octura mount & carb, the water-cooled cylinder with 10mm plug is original, O&R had a part no. for this one, possibly looks repaired where the tubes are attached. The type 193 is a standard engine supplied by O&R for many uses, Octura bought them & would have supplied all the other parts. I'm guessing it doesn't have the special Octura rotary valve, nor does mine & believe it or not, the serial number is only two numbers apart from your engine, someone lost the cooling baffles from mine (the plates with the serial/type decal). Since acquiring mine I have added the Octura carb & an extra noisy open muffler. David

Some good advice about fuel/gas in that, definitely don't use anything containing alcohol (aka ethanol), that will include most stuff sold by petrol/gas stations, over here in the UK they can put up to 10% ethanol in it now, which is very bad for any O&R engine, it ruins plastic parts, rubber seals & the diaphragms etc, it's also hygroscopic (attracts water from the air) and will lead to corrosion. Non ethanol fuel/gas (non-oxy) can be found for use with garden machinery, but check the label to be sure. David

Yes that is a fuel tank underneath, but I don't think it's Ohlsson supplied one. Some of these engines had a plastic fuel bowl under the carb needle valve (use of the wrong fuel will destroy these) and others had a metal tank that fitted behind the crankcase. The Octura information I have mentions glow fuel containing castor oil. I can't really advise on the ratio as it would depend on the performance required. The introduction of in glow fuels caused some problems with Ohlsson engines and could cause catastrophic failure i.e. the con-rod bending in early engines, they changed to using steel con-rods which would then cause the head to be blown off instead. If you interested in the history of the early Ohlsson model engines and the eventual problems when glow fuel was introduced, then the reprinted articles from 1966 in the 1999 Thermaleer newsletters are worth reading, see pages 12 to 13 of issue #59, pages 12 to 13 of issue #60 and pages 16 to 17 of issue #61, available as free downloads from here: http://www.sam600.com/old-site/b_thermaleer.htm David

Unfortunately the original instructions are no help for the fuel mix, as they wanted to sell you pre-mixed fuels, which since O&R and the Cheminol Corp no longer exist isn't much use to anyone. David

Definitely a glow plug then, the O&R instructions say to connect a 1.5V battery for starting only, but O&R sold their own plugs, will the Champion be different I don't know. We still need to find out a suitable glow fuel mix, as they state to only use O&R No. 2 Fuel for glow engines. David

Looks a very nice boat with an Ohlsson 60 engine fitted. Can you clean the ceramic part of the plug up and let us know the type, it could be either a spark-plug or glow-plug. As I can't see any points assembly fitted (would be behind the flywheel) it is more likely to be a glow-plug. Will have to see what fuel they recommended for these, it will also be a fuel/oil mix. I can't imagine the cooling fins working very well if you are going to run this engine on it's own. David