factory

Painted and ready for mounting.
 

Yep, I was fortunate enough to land this one as well. I actually want to use this one some and I have a project in mind. The first one is way too nice to use since it’s almost new condition, I plan to keep it in good condition.

Looks very similar to the brushes I put in in our ancient Black & Decker drill (one with a metal gearbox), seems to have outlasted many more modern plastic ones. I also save brushes from any motor or tool that gets scrapped.
 
Nice to see the inside of the generator too, never knew it used a slip ring for the rotor.
 
David

Here's a short video, ran ok (not so much for this clip) but then starved for fuel after maybe 5 minutes every time. Loosened the fuel cap, drained and cleaned the tank, opened up the carb.. seems very sensitive to fuel level/sloshing. Diaphragm maybe?
 
 
Ran great while clamped to a 2x4 in a vise but as soon as it got near water.. or under a load... oh well. 

A bit later than planned .
 
Here is my TAS Motor engine type J-22, I put a rule against it so you can see the size, I took a picture showing the crankcase screw as well.

 

 
More pictures in the TAS thread;
David

Here are some pictures of the only TAS Motor I have in my collection so far, it's a type J-22 engine, I keep looking for one of the older TAS engines to go with it but haven't had any luck yet.

 

 

 
It also came with what maybe the original toolkit.

 
David

Yes it does
 
Yes, starting to get tough to find the missing tools but there are several so the hunt continues...

Looks good to me, the originals probably weren't anything special, I've seen very old beer cans etc. made in a similar way to the O&R tanks, trouble is people collect them too. I've been saving the steel cans that coffee comes in these days, they don't have the corrugated look of a soup/bean can.
 
David

Rennie’s trimmer project inspired me to work on my Paramount trimmer. It’s a bit of a Frankenstein but nice to finally have it complete. The piston was frozen and had a broken connecting rod. I was able to salvage a piston and rod from a parts engine. I found a reasonably good cylinder head from another parts engine along with cooling baffles. I was able to fix up a recoil cover from misc other bits. Got the gas tank repaired and cleaned up inside. The only thing left to do now is wire up the stop switch (I’m waiting for some wire I ordered to arrive) that goes on the handle. Then I’ll have to give it a test run. It’s got really strong compression now so hopefully all the salvaged parts work together correctly.
 

So, I took the carb apart again, and reassembled it properly. Little bit of fiddling with the mixture and it runs nicely. Hunts slowly at idle, but when the throttle is opened up it runs quite well. Dunked it in the pool and it wanted to pull me in! I'll get a video when I put it on the canoe next week and post the link if anyone is interested. 

Re: Metric Bearings
 
Almost all ball bearings are metric because ball bearings were invented in europe. Conversely almost all tapered roller bearings are imperial since they were invented in the US. You can order either as specials in other units but generally speaking thats the rule of thumb. 

So my dad got this engine from a guy at work around 80-81. As far as I know it was never installed in anything, no marks on the mounting feet and no marks on the output shaft. Looks to be a date of 1969 on the ignition wire. Even back when my dad got it he had trouble with the diaphragm on the carb but never did anything with it. Always talked about putting it on a skateboard. lol.
 
So fast forward to about 2 years ago and my parents decide to move out to the middle of nowhere, eastern oregon so my dad sells everything in the shop, but not before I grab this engine. Covered in dust and grime, paint flaking off, all the labels fell off it was kind of a mess. Last week I decided to finally do something about it, stripped it most of the way down and put the pieces in the ultrasonic cleaner which did a pretty great job of cleaning up all the parts and stripped off most of the paint from the starter housing. The tank was pretty clean but kind of plugged up so I put some gas in it and used a RC fuel transfer pump to circulate gas out of the outlet dumping back through the vent nipple. This seemed to do a pretty good job of cleaning it up. Found some paint that matched the original paint on it and painted and assembled today. Still need to get the new foam for the air filter but it should be ready to run. Wallfish sent me some diaphragms which I installed. 
 
This is the paint I used, basically an identical match, painted two coats and then baked the enamel at 180f for about an hour. Baking the enamel usually results in a tougher finish. I have one of the three labels on the way, hoping to eventually find the 1HP and kill switch label. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GYS1ZG/
 
I ended up buying this hose pack from amazon to get the .08x.14 hose I needed to replace the fuel line. Still need to shove some string I the vent line.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GYS1ZG/

Unfortunately my information is missing engine Type 329 but the short-block replacement list does include it (doesn't give use).
 
I think it was a chainsaw engine, I can see some of the starter housing screws have nuts on the back, this is because most of the screws would have gone through the back-plate and straight into the chainsaw tank.
The starter is the wrong type for a 13B, but fitting the 13A or Compact I, II or III type would also require a change of flywheel as the starter dogs are different.
It's strange that it uses a very late coil, but the air filter is only a single stage type, possibly been added as some chainsaws use a completely different type.
Of course none of this really matters if it was a new spare chainsaw engine that was setup for a shop display.
 
For comparison this is an engine that was on a Mustang Model 13 chainsaw.

 

 
And here is the same engine on this chainsaw.

 
David

Unfortunately my information is missing engine Type 329 but the short-block replacement list does include it (doesn't give use).
 
I think it was a chainsaw engine, I can see some of the starter housing screws have nuts on the back, this is because most of the screws would have gone through the back-plate and straight into the chainsaw tank.
The starter is the wrong type for a 13B, but fitting the 13A or Compact I, II or III type would also require a change of flywheel as the starter dogs are different.
It's strange that it uses a very late coil, but the air filter is only a single stage type, possibly been added as some chainsaws use a completely different type.
Of course none of this really matters if it was a new spare chainsaw engine that was setup for a shop display.
 
For comparison this is an engine that was on a Mustang Model 13 chainsaw.

 

 
And here is the same engine on this chainsaw.

 
David

Unfortunately my information is missing engine Type 329 but the short-block replacement list does include it (doesn't give use).
 
I think it was a chainsaw engine, I can see some of the starter housing screws have nuts on the back, this is because most of the screws would have gone through the back-plate and straight into the chainsaw tank.
The starter is the wrong type for a 13B, but fitting the 13A or Compact I, II or III type would also require a change of flywheel as the starter dogs are different.
It's strange that it uses a very late coil, but the air filter is only a single stage type, possibly been added as some chainsaws use a completely different type.
Of course none of this really matters if it was a new spare chainsaw engine that was setup for a shop display.
 
For comparison this is an engine that was on a Mustang Model 13 chainsaw.

 

 
And here is the same engine on this chainsaw.

 
David

It's certainly an interesting display engine.
 

The base tank (part no #A-32-26) with no mounting tabs was made for at least one tool, the Orline Yard-Arm, but that doesn't use a gearbox as it's direct drive, is it possible it's been added to display the engine?

 
The blanked off PTO shaft is used when the shaft is fitted to the other side of the gearbox, i.e. towards the engine, the chainsaws & bicycle engine kits are set up like this.
 
That style of muffler/exhaust is used on some of the chainsaws, such as the Model 13 Mustang.

 
Has it got a engine model/type stamped into the cylinder baffle plate or on the end of the crankcase mounting flange (exhaust side)?

 
David

It's certainly an interesting display engine.
 

The base tank (part no #A-32-26) with no mounting tabs was made for at least one tool, the Orline Yard-Arm, but that doesn't use a gearbox as it's direct drive, is it possible it's been added to display the engine?

 
The blanked off PTO shaft is used when the shaft is fitted to the other side of the gearbox, i.e. towards the engine, the chainsaws & bicycle engine kits are set up like this.
 
That style of muffler/exhaust is used on some of the chainsaws, such as the Model 13 Mustang.

 
Has it got a engine model/type stamped into the cylinder baffle plate or on the end of the crankcase mounting flange (exhaust side)?

 
David

Factory, you are correct about the pump. It is a Kenco Model 61. The yellow engine with the gear box is NOS and it does not have mounting tabs on the base, they seem to have been milled off, and the output shaft is cut off with a plug closing off the hole. Our friend that we got it from said that it was a display unit for salesman to show off. Here is a picture of the output side.

Nice collection, the Derby Tiller was also made by Little Wonder (same as the hedge cutter next to it) I scanned the manuals a few years ago as Little Wonder didn't have them on their website. The NOS water pump looks to be a Kenco and the yellow engine with gearbox looks to be from a chainsaw with that style of muffler.
 
David

Here is a link to my wife's O&R collection. She also has a Tiny Tiger (not pictured) that is partly disassembled. It all started with the yellow pump (Type 217) that a friend of her grandfather gave me.
 
Jen's O&R Collection

That explains what Danarm were importing & rebranding, it's a Grow Gear trimmer with a planetary gear box (not the same as Orline, etc), see the Grow Gear advert part way down the page here;
The fuel tank is plastic & fits the two smaller holes on the gearbox.

 
My later Grow-Gear for comparison (has different handle but other-wise the same).

 
David

Those readings are fine for an earlier style coil, somewhere between 2kΩ to 3kΩ for the secondary (HT) coil winding is what I would expect (or 6kΩ to 7kΩ for the later coils).
 
David

Hi, im a new member that knew nothing a out the existence of O & R engines till a week ago when i became the owner of a Danarm Hedge Trimmer. Ive decided to attempt to restore it, but whilst it seems in a reasonable state need some help in where i might look for parts. Testing the magneto with a multimeter it appears to be dead ( broken HT im guessing) the engine is missing a tank too. Anyone know anything about this unit? (Photo inc) its age etc? Thanks in advance 😊

No I hadn't, mainly due to the round ones being available in more sizes, I spent quite a bit of time one day (while I was furloughed from work) measuring parts and searching through data-sheets to find the nearest sizes, then ordered them all individually from one supplier.
 
David

You've just rebuilt a later Comet C/Saw, did you not note the engine Type (I can't see it clearly in any of your pictures)?
 
I found this engine in my archived Comet pictures; with the correct stop switch, notches in the mounting flanges & no hole in the carb for the air cleaner screw, it's also a Type 110.


 
David