factory

I've moved several posts about a different water pump to a new thread here;
David

A few weeks ago I was helping clear a shed out when I came across these little items.
After searching the net I found this site to find out if they are any good to anyone out there.
I have not tried to get them going so I can only offer them as spares or repair to anyone interested. The drill looks complete as far as I can tell the other engine may have been on a model aircraft at some time. I also have a nice Lister model D stationary engine that is a good runner complete on a wheeled trolley, again not my thing.

Apologies for the rather long delay, the 09-843S-9 impeller impeller does fit, also easy to remove when you need to store the pump.
The paper gasket in the SPX impeller kit is no use, as the holes don't line up, you would need to make a new one if needed.

 
I seem to recall someone asked for measurements of the pump body too, this one measures at 1.76" internal diameter and the shaft is approx 0.307" in diameter. The new impeller should be 1.78" diameter & 0.31" shaft diameter according to the spec in post #24 .

 

 
David

They are a loose fit, I've only had one some out when running and that was because the vane flag was bent the wrong way.
If it comes out of the carb the engine will run away, keep an eye on it when you try it for the first time and be ready to use the kill switch, or close the choke if it misbehaves.
 
David

PDF of the NIAE report is here if anyone hasn't seen it;
David

The only shipping option turned out to be express, might have been a bit longer if they weren't available in Europe.
They should fit, will confirm at the weekend.
 
David

Wayne PC1 & PC2 pumps apparently use a smaller diameter impeller, listed as "Impeller dimensions: 1-3/8" Diameter, 1/2" Width D Shaped Key Hub for 5/16" Shaft" here;
https://www.amazon.com/Utility-Water-Transfer-Impeller-Replacement/dp/B06XDHJYVL/
 
There is still the possibility the whole pump assembly could be removed from the electric motor and adapted to fit one of these engines missing the pump unit, you would still need to make the shaft adaptor if the original was missing.

 
David

A while ago I had a go at making some, had to use three pieces to get the same thickness as the two gaskets originally used, also note the earliest engines have a single thinner gasket.
David

I've ordered two of the 09-843S-9 impeller kits from an Italian marine supplier, seems no one in the UK does the 8 vane version, will report back if/when they arrive.
 
David

What about searching small outboard water pump impellers?

Bit late but
Nice to see another with the Octura mount & carb, the water-cooled cylinder with 10mm plug is original, O&R had a part no. for this one, possibly looks repaired where the tubes are attached.
The type 193 is a standard engine supplied by O&R for many uses, Octura bought them & would have supplied all the other parts.
I'm guessing it doesn't have the special Octura rotary valve, nor does mine & believe it or not, the serial number is only two numbers apart from your engine, someone lost the cooling baffles from mine (the plates with the serial/type decal).


 
Since acquiring mine I have added the Octura carb & an extra noisy open muffler.

 
David

Bit late but
Nice to see another with the Octura mount & carb, the water-cooled cylinder with 10mm plug is original, O&R had a part no. for this one, possibly looks repaired where the tubes are attached.
The type 193 is a standard engine supplied by O&R for many uses, Octura bought them & would have supplied all the other parts.
I'm guessing it doesn't have the special Octura rotary valve, nor does mine & believe it or not, the serial number is only two numbers apart from your engine, someone lost the cooling baffles from mine (the plates with the serial/type decal).


 
Since acquiring mine I have added the Octura carb & an extra noisy open muffler.

 
David

hi  i am new  here    i found this page reaserching  i picked this one up   at a auction   today   good compression    spark is weak   

Hi All,
I have one that I will be fixing the points on to get consistent runs out of, I got a reply about fuel ect from another site, I have listed the reply below. The whole points housing is very loose on the crank case and floats around while running.
Cheers
Andrew
 

Hi All,
After spending the day playing around with the points bucket, I got every thing tightened up, running on an electronic ign
Cheers
Andrew
 
 
 

Some more pictures of the handle, outside diameter is approx 10", the height from the flat section is approx 9½" and the tube is approx ½" diameter.

 

 
The flat section is approx 1, 15/16" by 1, 11/16" with a hole to suit the switch fitted, I suspect my switch has been replaced judging by how chewed up the nut is.

 

 
David

Yes that is a fuel tank underneath, but I don't think it's Ohlsson supplied one. Some of these engines had a plastic fuel bowl under the carb needle valve (use of the wrong fuel will destroy these) and others had a metal tank that fitted behind the crankcase.
 
The Octura information I have mentions glow fuel containing castor oil. I can't really advise on the ratio as it would depend on the performance required. The introduction of in glow fuels caused some problems with Ohlsson engines and could cause catastrophic failure i.e. the con-rod bending in early engines, they changed to using steel con-rods which would then cause the head to be blown off instead.
 
If you interested in the history of the early Ohlsson model engines and the eventual problems when glow fuel was introduced, then the reprinted articles from 1966 in the 1999 Thermaleer newsletters are worth reading, see pages 12 to 13 of issue #59, pages 12 to 13 of issue  #60 and pages 16 to 17 of issue #61, available as free downloads from here: http://www.sam600.com/old-site/b_thermaleer.htm
 
David

Unfortunately the original instructions are no help for the fuel mix, as they wanted to sell you pre-mixed fuels, which since O&R and the Cheminol Corp no longer exist isn't much use to anyone.
 
David

We found this in the Cottage Attic, apparently it was built by my Father in Law many years ago. After some lubricating I managed to free up the motor, the spark plug is in good shape but need to test. Apparently he use to run this on lighter fluid?  I just need to figure what I am missing in order to fire it up. The plan is to leave the boat in its current Patina. I will build a new stand. Windshield parts were in the boat, I will re-affix as many of the original parts as possible. Not really looking to ever run this in water again. It never had a rudder, you only hoped it would run out of fuel before hitting anything on the lake. What's the motor missing? Are there any schematics on this site? Category for this type of project?
 
Many thanks to the knowledge base on this site
Cheers,
Don in Canada 

No issues. I just logged in and opened some of the PDFs, seems to be working.

Finished the Chug-a-Drill (at least until I find a loop handle or have one made). Took some serious cleaning but well worth it.  It’s definitely an awkward tool to sit down without the loop handle. Resting in on either side makes contact with the exhaust, tank, air cleaner or coil.

Got the chuck off...
 

I have come across these in a property I have recently taken over, all look to be brand new.
I have
1 Turbair Fox
3 Turbair Flydowners
1 Turbair Sprite 
1 Turbair Power pack
 
Do they have a value and who is likely to be interested in them?  Thanks in advance I'm a bit clueless about them.

Took a break on this for a little while to fix the ignition on a Tecumseh powered Blue Star welder.
 
So I was able to cut the carb spring shape from the spring steel material. Edges were sightly rough but a little filing took care of that. I reassembled the carb with the new spring and reproduction carb diaphragm and check valve. It fired right up after priming the lines with fuel using a little air pressure! Only adjustments I've made is the mixture screw to get the rpms right for the correct voltage.
 
Calling this one done for now I guess. Might need to keep an eye out for another OR tool to rebuild!

Finally got the saw back together. That took way too long. It’s been busy but it feels good to finish this project. I may tackle the Chug-a-Drill next...