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Tom

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Posts posted by Tom
 
 

  1. Hi all,

     

    Not done much on the Cub lately, unfortunately. However, I have picked up some new rear tyres and another K161 engine. Admittedly it is seized but it has been barn stored and looks fairly straight so I can use parts off of it all being well. Has anyone else put 23-8.50 x 12 tyres on a cub before? I mocked it up and I quite like it, not sure what to put on the front though...

     

    99C4BCE6-E52A-4E65-90F2-94990D0389A3.jpg

     

    What do you guys think?

     

    Tom


  2. Well in theory one might think so, but that is DEFINITELY not the case. For example, Kohler made dozens of different models each of the k series 10, 12, and 14 hp engines, the 14 hp K321  alone had over 75 different crankshaft applications. To correctly replace any kohler engine you need to match up the SPEC number, that will tell you if it has the right crankshaft, carburetor, starter, oil pan, air breather, and weather it is alternator, generator or battery or magneto ignitions. if you do your homework it will save you from sorrow down the road, if you don't do your homework your shed will turn into the local spares store. BTW, I have a list of spec numbers, crankshaft cross references and such. On a final note, the spec numbers don't always have to match exactly, some overlap in application, some.

    Hi HeadExam,

     

    I fully understand what you are saying and have noticed many small differences in the Kohlers I have owned. The spec number I have for this engine is: 23493E if that is any help to you.. The only problem I can see me having if I were to put a K141/K161/K181 would be fitting the drive pulley and recoil for the drive belt. I'm not too sure if the other Kohlers would have a hole for the dowel on the pulley..

     

    Tom

    I've experienced the fun of Kohler spec numbers whilst ordering parts for the K582 in my Bolens HT23.

     

    I've just had another look at your pictures of the damaged parts and I think it would be possible to do a weld repair. For the flywheel I would suggest farming that out to someone experienced with welding cast because you really don't want it to fall apart with the engine running. You may have someone at work who would do it for the cost of a drink.

     

    The K161 I have on my bench (that we were looking at on Saturday) has the complete center of the flywheel broken off. The previous owner had glued it back in place and used the engine until the glue gave way, so a good weld repair should work well although it may be slightly out of balance.

     

    Before doing that it might be worth finding out if mechanically the engine is sound. We could pull the flywheel, mag, etc. from the K161 on one of my ride-a-matics's to try to get your engine running.

     

    Iain

     

    Hi Iain,

     

    It may be an idea, and one that I have thought of. The only thing I would be worried about is would it unbalance the flywheel? I know you wouldn't be adding much weight.. That's a very kind offer of you which I may take you up on as, like you say, I don't want to throw sums of money at it and find out there is something else wrong! We will have to have a chat at the weekend :)

     

    Tom


  3. I would imagine so, from what I've read the K141, K161 and K181 are very similar apart from bore size. The 350s run a K141 originally... I was actually thinking of them because they are fairly common, the main downside is they come with the rest of the machine most of the time!

     

    Tom


  4. Hi guys,

     

    Thanks for your continued help. I'd prefer a recoil really, it's less to go wrong in my opinion. If I did replace the engine I'd like to try and rebuild the original engine and eventually stick it back in. Apparently the recoils are quite uncommon. I know Iains is also a recoil start. I'm definitely going to have to look out for a replacement I think, it's going to be expensive gaining all the parts and in the mean time I can look out for a 7hp. The only thing that worries me is fitting the drive pulley on the flywheel side of the engine, I'm not sure if the Cub kohlers were made any different to other kohlers?

     

    Tom


  5. Hi guys,

     

    Were the K181s electric start? I imagine so as the 7hp Cub recoil wouldn't fit an 8hp I don't think as it has dowels to help keep it in line, maybe I will have to convert it to electric start too.. They don't make it easy!

     

    Tom


  6. Hi Ewan,

     

    It's a possibility as long as the bolt pattern is the same on the sump and I can put the recoil on the 8hp as well as the tank and the drive pulley. It's definitely achievable though, the next problem is finding a nice running 8hp, unless you've got one? ;)  

     

    Tom


  7. Had the engine on the bench today and inspected further into it. Not great news unfortunately, bearing plate is broken on the side; I'm presuming where someone has tried to lever the flywheel off. The flywheel is cracked, again I imagine due to harsh treatment, the magneto also seems to be not working. I tried an OHM test with no results so I'm not sure how else to try it. It makes sense because someone has put a coil on the side of it which makes me think they didn't or couldn't replace the magneto so just tried a coil to get it to work. They have also tried a new condenser. I'm unsure what to do now, I want to keep it original as possible BUT at the same time don't want to spend heaps of money getting all the original parts because like all my other tractors it will be a worker. The best thing would be to get a donor engine but I can't see that happening really..

     

    9A68C7ED-A60F-4DE8-9D0E-57C38A91EF0E.jpg

     

    3AFA9970-40E4-423D-A11F-0B59827F6126.jpg

     

    Any help or advice would be appreciated!

     

    Tom


  8. It's certainly interesting, we will have to watch out for anymore. Correct me if I'm wrong but you have a wheel horse plough don't you? Does that fit your Cub? I ask as the clevis part seems quite wide to me, too wide for a brinly plough.

     

    Tom


  9. Thanks Chris :D

    Very nice Tom,
    I picked up a cub cadet 70 the other week with the same hitch on the back, I was beginning to think it was homemade because no one on the cub cadet forum had ever seen one,
    Awesome!

    Hi Ewan,

     

    They seem to have got people thinking, I spoke to a chap in the US and he said that it wasn't original to the tractor but it's weird how they are both identical, unless it was something that was manufactured and fitted over here..

     

    Tom


  10. Very nice Cub Ewan, you're also lucky to get all the manuals with it! Are you going to restore it or leave it?

     

    Tom

    Only four of the seven photos showed up for me.  :( Model 70s are hard to find, is it a recoil or electric start? The springs on the rear hitch are not factory, but the rest of the hitch may very well be. I thought the wheel weights may be early Bolens weights, but it is possible that E. Rowe which built the weights for Bolens and many other tractors, also supplied weights to Cub dealers overseas, that may have looked like Bolens weights, but were intended for Cubs, very hard to say. I do have photos of model 70 and 100 weights that were sold here in the US. and even that is speculation unless one knows the original purchaser.

     

    I'm no Cub expert as I am new to them but I'm pretty sure the springs are factory as they were an option, from what I've read anyway. Apparently spring assist was an option to obviously help lift heavier implements.

     

    Tom


  11. As much as I'd like a Bolens I really can't buy no more for a while! I will just have to come round yours Iain and drive yours about :lol:

    Thanks Ian! I think I have been quite lucky recently with finding them close to me, usually they are all down your way or up North! It would be nice to get it running and stick a plough on it for rural past times, hmmm...

    Tom


  12. Hi Iain,

     

    I am certainly pleased it has the rear lift. I just plonked the engine on there for a picture :) There is actually a serial number on the reduction box, using a serial number date tool online it dated to January 1963. The registration plate was also registered in 1963.

     

    Tom


  13. Thanks for all the comments guys! Before it goes to any shows I need to get the engine running and bolted in properly! It has compression so fingers crossed there isn't too much wrong with it, time will tell..

     

    Tom


  14. :o  :o

     

    I have only gone and bought another vintage piece of machinery, not a wheel horse this time though, I didn't expect to see one so close to me but I had to have it! I wonder if you can guess what it is :D

     

    photo%2024.jpg

     

    Except Iain, you are exempt as you have already seen it :lol:

     

    Tom

 
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