Wallfish

Seems they tried to bait someone with false bidding. Do the questions to the seller go into the ad automatically or does the seller do it? Auto would be nice to shed light on this type of crap so the next buyer is aware of the selling history.
It seems like 50% of the people try to scam the other 50%. In reality it's more like 10% are the scourge but they're 90% of the problem

Next up for a refresh is this Creme Lure Power Pack Model C. Never had one of these apart before so the generator end should be interesting. At least the plastic tank is in very good shape so it's well worth the effort to make this one nice again.
Just waiting on some small stuff for the other projects to get 100% completed

 

 

And here's your first "don't do this"
Don't use a ball head hex tool in that bolt and snap the tip off in there!
DAM!
 

check this out
 

Birds of prey, Ha! Funny how my post didn't mention ANY names but you guys know exactly who was meant. VULCTURES!
BTW, does anyone know what the O&R decal bird is actually supposed to be? An Albatross or something?
 
A new decal was made but I couldn't simulate those angled letters very well. The new decal looked alright but in the end decided to just keep the damaged original. Again, it took a while to clean off all of the stuck paint from it but...
 

Got this one painted in record time. 5 years 2 months plus. Woo Hoo! Started on this project way back in Jan of 2015 and the engine is the one from the rebuild pics thread. The coil was recently changed back to an old school version since that's what was originally on the engine. Finally it's close enough to see the light at the end of the tunnel after pecking away at it for an hour or 2 at a time over the last couple weeks. This is too cool and rare of a piece to be left sitting in pieces out in a forgotten box. Not sure what I was think'n.
Still need to paint the tank , touch up quite a few spots damaged on the yellow, figure out a decal and it appears there should be a chain guard on the front because of holes in the one on it, so maybe that too. Still not sure about winding on the cable or not. It's kind of heavy without it and there's no handle to carry it. All that cable is pretty heavy just on it's own. Seems it was designed to just be mounted and not so much portable.
That Rustoleum paint seems like it never hardens so it's a PITA not scrape up during assembly.
Started with this and now up to that.
 

 

 

I think in this case the original decal is the way to go, it’s not damaged that badly and it maintains some of the original elements and character of the unit.  Looks cool!
 
I claim Vulture #2, JustO&R can be Vulture #1... I feel like I just entered a warped version of a Dr Seuss classic...

Got this one painted in record time. 5 years 2 months plus. Woo Hoo! Started on this project way back in Jan of 2015 and the engine is the one from the rebuild pics thread. The coil was recently changed back to an old school version since that's what was originally on the engine. Finally it's close enough to see the light at the end of the tunnel after pecking away at it for an hour or 2 at a time over the last couple weeks. This is too cool and rare of a piece to be left sitting in pieces out in a forgotten box. Not sure what I was think'n.
Still need to paint the tank , touch up quite a few spots damaged on the yellow, figure out a decal and it appears there should be a chain guard on the front because of holes in the one on it, so maybe that too. Still not sure about winding on the cable or not. It's kind of heavy without it and there's no handle to carry it. All that cable is pretty heavy just on it's own. Seems it was designed to just be mounted and not so much portable.
That Rustoleum paint seems like it never hardens so it's a PITA not scrape up during assembly.
Started with this and now up to that.
 

 

 

Didn't I send you a couple of those a few weeks back. Don't tell me you lost them to

just tried my own advice and cut a couple off the feeler gauge. It seemed like .002 was right but again, I'm only going by feel with my fingers and trying to compare it with the gauged material. Real scientific like approach! Please don't try this at home!
The feeler gauge is unfortunately not the correct width so they need to be cut length wise. BUT it was perfect size for halfway so 2 can be cut from the same length. Used very scientific tools to cut them, scissors and an Xacto knife.
Left is #1 attempt
middle is actual spring
Right is #2 attempt
Clearly not perfect as the first one is dimensional sewage but #2 might actually work. After cutting a bunch the technique should improve so therefore the finished product should as well. Scientific reasoning. LoL
 

So, Unfortunately I got side tracked with some important work an personal stuff and didn't meet the hobby goals of today with sending @scott mok, @CNew and @pmackellow their goodie packages, attempting a better spring cutting method by shearing out the center, inspecting all of the parts and attachments from a recently acquired Wheel Horse 520-H tractor package deal,  and any other O&R or tractor stuff. Never made it out of the house today. Maybe @JUST O&R should check in so I can find something to send him too. LoL
 But, I ordered a roll of that spring material and a 1/8" W grinding disk. The plan is to pinch a stack of the spring material in between some mild steel for support, get the grinding wheel to fit in my lathe chuck and use the milling attachment to feed and control the stock into the wheel and grind out the center opening of the spring shape. Then either grind or cut the exterior edges for the springs. All theory it will work at this point but certainly worth a try compared to individually hand cutting our feeler gauges. But don't stay complacent waiting for me, cut up those feeler gauges so yours is as ruined as mine is! LoL

So, Unfortunately I got side tracked with some important work an personal stuff and didn't meet the hobby goals of today with sending @scott mok, @CNew and @pmackellow their goodie packages, attempting a better spring cutting method by shearing out the center, inspecting all of the parts and attachments from a recently acquired Wheel Horse 520-H tractor package deal,  and any other O&R or tractor stuff. Never made it out of the house today. Maybe @JUST O&R should check in so I can find something to send him too. LoL
 But, I ordered a roll of that spring material and a 1/8" W grinding disk. The plan is to pinch a stack of the spring material in between some mild steel for support, get the grinding wheel to fit in my lathe chuck and use the milling attachment to feed and control the stock into the wheel and grind out the center opening of the spring shape. Then either grind or cut the exterior edges for the springs. All theory it will work at this point but certainly worth a try compared to individually hand cutting our feeler gauges. But don't stay complacent waiting for me, cut up those feeler gauges so yours is as ruined as mine is! LoL

So, Unfortunately I got side tracked with some important work an personal stuff and didn't meet the hobby goals of today with sending @scott mok, @CNew and @pmackellow their goodie packages, attempting a better spring cutting method by shearing out the center, inspecting all of the parts and attachments from a recently acquired Wheel Horse 520-H tractor package deal,  and any other O&R or tractor stuff. Never made it out of the house today. Maybe @JUST O&R should check in so I can find something to send him too. LoL
 But, I ordered a roll of that spring material and a 1/8" W grinding disk. The plan is to pinch a stack of the spring material in between some mild steel for support, get the grinding wheel to fit in my lathe chuck and use the milling attachment to feed and control the stock into the wheel and grind out the center opening of the spring shape. Then either grind or cut the exterior edges for the springs. All theory it will work at this point but certainly worth a try compared to individually hand cutting our feeler gauges. But don't stay complacent waiting for me, cut up those feeler gauges so yours is as ruined as mine is! LoL

Looks good!
 
I’ll get the larger decal in the mail to you. 
 
This circle cutter is coming in pretty handy...

The Sugarcreek decals arrived today. Although they state these are 3" decals, luckily for us they are actually 2.5" decals and will fit the recoil. They do fit on as is but trimming off some of the outer black circle will give even a better fit.
@CNew let's trade decals as the chain cover will look better with the larger decal you have and your recoil will be taken care of with the smaller 2.5 decal. That circle cutter will come in handy again!

 

That’s awesome David, how you find all this info isn’t amazing.  Also very cool that it’s from Petro Powered Products.

your still not as slow as I am it took me about 30 years . so smile your doing good .

The Sugarcreek decals arrived today. Although they state these are 3" decals, luckily for us they are actually 2.5" decals and will fit the recoil. They do fit on as is but trimming off some of the outer black circle will give even a better fit.
@CNew let's trade decals as the chain cover will look better with the larger decal you have and your recoil will be taken care of with the smaller 2.5 decal. That circle cutter will come in handy again!

 

The Sugarcreek decals arrived today. Although they state these are 3" decals, luckily for us they are actually 2.5" decals and will fit the recoil. They do fit on as is but trimming off some of the outer black circle will give even a better fit.
@CNew let's trade decals as the chain cover will look better with the larger decal you have and your recoil will be taken care of with the smaller 2.5 decal. That circle cutter will come in handy again!

 

Heres my first try, It me about an hour to make what you think
Scott

Looking very nice and well done for saving the original decal.
 
David

I'm working on it today.
Does anyone have experience creating a DXF file? We can get an online quote to have them laser cut if I can upload a DXF file for the springs.
Found a free trial program but it will probably take a while for an idiot like me to figure out how to use it properly and create a file.
The tool and die guy responded but so far it's just correspondence to see if it's even a cost effective solution.
One thing for sure, that one I did get right and installed will work. BUT having a bit more precision to them would be much better

Just making sure nobody is loosing them they are going to get harder to find. I may need to
do some experimenting my self.

Just guessing and going by feel but here's a 3" x 50 " roll of .003. That should keep the new guy busy cut'n carb springs for a while! LoL
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRECISION-BRAND-SHIM-STOCK-ROLL-BLUE-TEMPERED-STEEL-003-GAUGE-3-X-50-23120/401788624351?epid=1530224846&hash=item5d8c77dddf:g:0LIAAOSwg6ldB6p7
 
OR, for a quick try on cutting them, how about using a cheapie feeler guage from harbor freight? The width of the one I have is the perfect length of the spring. Now they can be tried in different thicknesses too and you can probably cut almost 10 from each different size. 
A whopping $5 to try one
https://www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-pc-63665.html
Whatever you do don't use a shopping cart when going in there. It's always impulse buy hell if you like tinkering or tools. Go in for a $5 item and come out $50 poorer. Minimum!

NOS recoil springs come packed with these metal retainers. It makes the spring very easy to install into the housing. I reuse them for used springs when servicing the recoils. Clean and coil up the used spring small enough to load into the retainer so you won't need to pinch and hold the spring tension while installing it.
Drop it into place inside the housing and hold the spring down with your thumb or fingers while removing the retainer. Once removed, lightly release pressure so the spring uncoils slowly until it stops. It seems best to lube the spring after it's installed which allows the friction to control the uncoiling speed.
They work great for storing any spare springs if you have extras or spares. Plus leaves them ready to go for replacing damaged springs and protects them from accidental bending
 
You can make your own retainers out of 2 inch pipe. Left one below is cut pipe, the other is a factory retainer. Just use a file to smooth the edges so it's easy to remove from the spring. The retainer's thickness is less than the width of the spring but making a wider piece allows for easier removal. Try it and you won't go back to the pinch and hold panic of an uncoiling spring again. No more because of accidental release of the coil tension. Please send your $50 donation for saving you time and aggravation during your recoil services.