Ian

You know it was Alan, I think my back is going to take a while to recover from Sunday

I think they should judge the machines on what sort of feel they give rather than if it's got all the original washers or not.. But maybe I feel like that because I could never build a "show machine" that I would be scared of using in case it got scratched or something!

That's a nice looking engine, what HP is it?

A very nice haul Phil, I agree with Andrew, don't repaint them, they look great as they are..

I had to look a few times just to check I wasn't seeing things... Yep, it's not red A very nice find Mark, I'd give it a good wash then the oily rag treatment rather than a repaint. She looks great as she is.

Thanks Guys.. Only a small update guys.. Happy that my strange braking system will work, today I started to refine it a bit. New connecting lever on the left, prototype on the right.. As you can see I decided it needed a bit of shape to it Here it is fitted.. The handbrake lever looked like it had been pulled from an old Marina or something, so I gave it a "Wheel Horse" make over. The bottom half will be covered by the side panel.. I think it looks more the part

A very nice place... Do they deliver?

Handy tips there Mark

From rust to really shiny... A very nice restoration

That's a fair sized garden you have there, me likes

Those C's to tend to like to rot in hidden places! Looking forward to the rest of the build Norm

Thanks Mark This morning while looking at the photo's of the master cylinders I had a flash of inspiration as you do.. This won't hit MooTube for a little while but I thought I'd give you a sneak preview.. This is the prototype so it needs a bit of refinement, but you will get the idea http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc140/Stigian/Why%20Not/th_Brake%20Demo_zpsgirdmxlk.mp4

Hi Ryan, Welcome to MOM. I can't help you with a cutting deck but there are plenty of great Bolens guys here

Fantastic work Richard, it's good to see a bit more progress on the yellow peril

Hopefully it will only be burning rubber you can smell A little bit more progress has been made... Brake pedal moved inwards a bit and what will be the throttle in place.. Sometimes the best solution is the simplest one.. As you know I am using two bike master cylinders for WN's brakes, one front brakes, one rear, but I also need a way to set the balance on them, or more braking at the back than the front as it's otherwise known.. I did look at brake bias valves but other than Chinese cheap rubbish they were all rather expensive! I could of built a linkage using cams to apply different pressure to each master cylinder until a thought hit me.. As you will of seen by the photo in my last post I had been thinking of having the MC's next to each other... But what would happen if one was above the other? Taaa Daa The higher you go up the lever the more it goes forward, so the top MC (rear brakes) gets more pressure and sooner than the bottom (front brakes) MC All I need to do is weld the MC frame to the chassis, change the lever bit for something a bit stronger and connect it via a rod to the brake pedal.. A little fine tuning will be needed I expect, but I'm rather hopeful this system will work

There was a chap on Fleabay called Horsebreaker selling parts, I don't know if he is still doing it though.. Have you thought about placing a "wanted" ad in our classified section?

Your Ramsom is proving to be a very handy machine to have.. I bet you wonder how you coped without it now

Evening chaps, yesterday I got WN's clutch pedal sorted... Up.. Down.... Now you may of noticed when the pedal is in the down position the pull on the cable isn't ideal, but this was soon sorted when I found a matching pair of pedals in a box under the bench! Of course I had to use a matching pair of pedals, so the newly found clutch pedal had a little trim, and extra hole drilled for the cable to attach to, and fitted. The clutch has a nice feel to it. a bit of travel and not too sharp.. I need to fit a stopper to stop the pedal from falling back which is why it's held up with a spanner As for the brake pedal, here it is almost in place. I need to trim about 3/4 inch off the inside to get it a little closer to the engine to make enough space for the throttle pedal. Sorry about the finger in the photo but here you can (just) see the matching pair of bike master cylinders. They came from 1000cc bikes (no idea which bikes, it was a long time ago) and should be more than up to the job. As you will of guessed one is for the front brakes and one for the rear.. The front's being bike calipers will be easy to plumb in... As for the rears, I have worked out a way of linking car and bike brake lines together that does not involve jubilee clips , but more on that when I get there. Yesterday Nigel was looking for something to do, so I gave him one of the rocker covers to strip of paint and give a very quick polish.. Very good it looks too Unable to stop himself at this point one of the exhausts was pulled off to have the ally clamp polished and a coat of high temperature paint.. Which lead to the question of what colour the engine should be painted.. Not having any gloss black between us part of the engine was quickly masked up and hit with more of the high temp paint.. Now it has dried to a matt finish it doesn't look that good, but while it was wet it looked great. So the engine will be going gloss black with a few select ally parts polished up Right side... Left side

A very nice line up Phil. I'm guessing with that lot you don't have to dig the garden by hand much

Hi Martin, the belt guard is the big one on the right side (the drive belt from the engine is behind it), the cover on the left side hides all the lift gubbins. The good news is the the belt guard, the left side cover and the fender pan are all bolt on panels and don't take much time to change them.

Quite a silly build.. But that's what I like about it Built by the same people who built the motorized wheel barrow

Did the tea survive the fall?

Your welcome Joe, and thanks for watching my vids You can use filled tyres in the winter but it's best to drain them and refill with a 50% water/screen wash mix to stop the water freezing. You can use a water/anti-freeze mix but screen wash is much less harmful to the environment should it leak out than anti-freeze

Hi Joe, you need some AG tyres by the sounds of it. Much better than grass tyres for grip. Wheel weights do help with traction but they can be expensive to buy. As you need to pull your grass tyres off the rims to fit AG's, you could always fit inner tubes at the same time and fill the tubes about 85% full of water to get extra weight and thus traction. I used to have "ballasted" as it's known tyres on my 312-8, the difference in traction was amazing.. There's a very good thread on our sister forum RedSquare about filled tyres verses wheel weights, click on the link below. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/55523-wheel-weights-verses-liquid-filled/ I hope this helps..