Anglo Traction

A great thread and wonderful workmanship . Ignition - unless I’ve missed it, there’s no mention of the condenser, has it been changed? Judging from the number of faulty / weak condensers that I change on not quite so old engines, it may be worth a punt.

A bit more than I could deal with without finding more large tooling like bending rolls and a larger welder Norm. A long search for the correct size may be the only way.
I reckon sorting the  mower will be quicker.
 
 
Not sure if it was worth the wait for people, but hope it is seen for what it's worth. 
 
An overdue update which has established the drive chain dilemma and now has at least linked the Counter Shaft to the engine, so it can be turned over with the handle.
Also, I mentioned I was not happy with the badly worn split bushing that holds the Armature plate on the engine's crankshaft bushing.
Marathon job for me, machining it from  40mm solid EN8 bar. Pressed out the old one-
 

 

 
Careful measuring so the new one fits as well as the old one and the bore finished undersize (0.9970") to fit the crank bushing with an interference fit-
 
  
 
Loads of swarf later, moved it to the Mill still in the chuck to put the first slit in-
 
 
 
Could not see why the slit needed to be as wide as the original, so kept it 1/32" (.8mm) and back on the Lathe for parting off-

 
I could then fit it in a machine vise for the second slit and pressed it back into the plate-
 

 
I bottled out in the end and replaced the HT Coil - Points wire just to be sure, so was now confident that it was as good as I could get it Mag- wise.
The Armature Plate went back onto the engine as planned, a good interference fit with zero movement on the bushing before tightening the securing screw.
Final check/clean and the flywheel replaced to set the points gap and timing and the anxiety was building.
 
I knew the magnets were reasonable and had 'Keepers' fitted while work was done. So had no excuses left and started to check for a spark.
First few cranks of the handle produced nothing, then next turns, spotted a few faint, inconsistent sparks. I knew the mag needed to be re-energised and could take a while.
That was last week. Today, I set to it again and more cranking and checking. Finally, the sparks were more consistent and brighter, but not sure if strong enough.
Went for it and primed the cylinder with some petroil, shoved the original Spark plug in. Cranked it up with the De-comp open, then closed it and it fired up briefly !!!.
So after over 80 years, the old Villiers has a pulse and a brief mechanical heartbeat. Next week, I'll hope to run it for longer and get some heat into it.
It will be a while before I can run/drive it....nothing to hook it up to yet.  
      
 
 
 

A bit more than I could deal with without finding more large tooling like bending rolls and a larger welder Norm. A long search for the correct size may be the only way.
I reckon sorting the  mower will be quicker.
 
 
Not sure if it was worth the wait for people, but hope it is seen for what it's worth. 
 
An overdue update which has established the drive chain dilemma and now has at least linked the Counter Shaft to the engine, so it can be turned over with the handle.
Also, I mentioned I was not happy with the badly worn split bushing that holds the Armature plate on the engine's crankshaft bushing.
Marathon job for me, machining it from  40mm solid EN8 bar. Pressed out the old one-
 

 

 
Careful measuring so the new one fits as well as the old one and the bore finished undersize (0.9970") to fit the crank bushing with an interference fit-
 
  
 
Loads of swarf later, moved it to the Mill still in the chuck to put the first slit in-
 
 
 
Could not see why the slit needed to be as wide as the original, so kept it 1/32" (.8mm) and back on the Lathe for parting off-

 
I could then fit it in a machine vise for the second slit and pressed it back into the plate-
 

 
I bottled out in the end and replaced the HT Coil - Points wire just to be sure, so was now confident that it was as good as I could get it Mag- wise.
The Armature Plate went back onto the engine as planned, a good interference fit with zero movement on the bushing before tightening the securing screw.
Final check/clean and the flywheel replaced to set the points gap and timing and the anxiety was building.
 
I knew the magnets were reasonable and had 'Keepers' fitted while work was done. So had no excuses left and started to check for a spark.
First few cranks of the handle produced nothing, then next turns, spotted a few faint, inconsistent sparks. I knew the mag needed to be re-energised and could take a while.
That was last week. Today, I set to it again and more cranking and checking. Finally, the sparks were more consistent and brighter, but not sure if strong enough.
Went for it and primed the cylinder with some petroil, shoved the original Spark plug in. Cranked it up with the De-comp open, then closed it and it fired up briefly !!!.
So after over 80 years, the old Villiers has a pulse and a brief mechanical heartbeat. Next week, I'll hope to run it for longer and get some heat into it.
It will be a while before I can run/drive it....nothing to hook it up to yet.  
      
 
 
 

A bit more than I could deal with without finding more large tooling like bending rolls and a larger welder Norm. A long search for the correct size may be the only way.
I reckon sorting the  mower will be quicker.
 
 
Not sure if it was worth the wait for people, but hope it is seen for what it's worth. 
 
An overdue update which has established the drive chain dilemma and now has at least linked the Counter Shaft to the engine, so it can be turned over with the handle.
Also, I mentioned I was not happy with the badly worn split bushing that holds the Armature plate on the engine's crankshaft bushing.
Marathon job for me, machining it from  40mm solid EN8 bar. Pressed out the old one-
 

 

 
Careful measuring so the new one fits as well as the old one and the bore finished undersize (0.9970") to fit the crank bushing with an interference fit-
 
  
 
Loads of swarf later, moved it to the Mill still in the chuck to put the first slit in-
 
 
 
Could not see why the slit needed to be as wide as the original, so kept it 1/32" (.8mm) and back on the Lathe for parting off-

 
I could then fit it in a machine vise for the second slit and pressed it back into the plate-
 

 
I bottled out in the end and replaced the HT Coil - Points wire just to be sure, so was now confident that it was as good as I could get it Mag- wise.
The Armature Plate went back onto the engine as planned, a good interference fit with zero movement on the bushing before tightening the securing screw.
Final check/clean and the flywheel replaced to set the points gap and timing and the anxiety was building.
 
I knew the magnets were reasonable and had 'Keepers' fitted while work was done. So had no excuses left and started to check for a spark.
First few cranks of the handle produced nothing, then next turns, spotted a few faint, inconsistent sparks. I knew the mag needed to be re-energised and could take a while.
That was last week. Today, I set to it again and more cranking and checking. Finally, the sparks were more consistent and brighter, but not sure if strong enough.
Went for it and primed the cylinder with some petroil, shoved the original Spark plug in. Cranked it up with the De-comp open, then closed it and it fired up briefly !!!.
So after over 80 years, the old Villiers has a pulse and a brief mechanical heartbeat. Next week, I'll hope to run it for longer and get some heat into it.
It will be a while before I can run/drive it....nothing to hook it up to yet.  
      
 
 
 

I rather like that, Richard.
 
  I'm sure if you can't find a set of wheels, carriage or cart, a man of your capabilities can make some.
 

Hope these aren't an incentive to be sitting down on the jobs Norm!  .............But,.... nothing to stop you stress testing them on a warm day with a beer or two!.  

In the back of the workshop I've had some iron garden seat ends, that I painted a few years ago. Finally decided to do something with them. So some beech beams from a ship I've also had lying around, (The beams not the ship), found their way to a neighbours who's a joiner. There they were cut into strips to make seat slats. I then gave them three coats of yacht varnish. Today I put everything to gether.
 

 
 Carol is well pleased as she likes a variety of places to sit.
 
  Next on the list was the bench we have out on the green. It was an old park bench that was given to us some years back. About 20 I think. I'd done it up then, but the years have taken their toll.
 

 
That soon ended up like below with the aid of the chainsaw.
 
So it looked like this.
 

 
After a couple of hours it is now ready for some paint.
 

  
    To be continued. 
 
 

Hi Ewan,
               Depending on whether SPA type belts are ok to use with Clutching/Idler pulleys which may be a cause of belt deterioration?,
the SPA 732 belt (732mm) is sold as the INSIDE dimension (28.82 inches).
Wheel Horse belts are/were measured around the Outer circumference, so a 732 will be greater than 29 inches.
Presuming your replacement Pulleys are the same (Pitch) size as originals, and the distance apart is the same, then the belt should be ok.
Snatched this off the Web as an example-

 
Regards

Ah!, forgot you'd fitted other pulleys. I suspect you had better stick to SPA Section Belts. The Section is different to 'V' (13mm x 8mm) SPA is 13mm x 10mm.
Which means you may have to stick to 732mm. No experience with that type. 
 

Hi Ewan, I suspect that belt (spa732) is only a conventional duty belt. 732 is just under 29 inches.
Being of the ilk that prefers to use OEM in these circumstances, I would suggest treating the machine to what Toro calls a genuine belt.
The original spec is for your RJ is part number 1567. 4L x 29" . They had 3 grades then (extract from Tor manual) -

 
Modern  (metricated) European spec Belts are mainly general use types and have tiny dimensional differences.
Quality is probably inconsistent as well. So 60 years later, the only place you'll find a correct belt, is to look West.
Search using  Toro/Wheel Horse 1567 part number and you'll get several choices.
Toro belts have all the modern fabrics etc incorporated and some are cotton wrapped for quiet running. Depends what you are prepared to pay.
 
Only other option is to go for something like this and see how it behaves-       - A29-.
I'll admit to buying these types for the mower deck and they seem ok,  but haven't had a good try out yet. They have all the qualities you mention.
You can get at least 2 of them for one OEM, so it's your call really.  
Regards
 
         

Having been given some trees nearby that have been ripped out with a digger,  I decided to make a tote for chainsaw etc. This will fit on the front of the Sears GT16 which I use for towing my Saxon trailer. Better than having to carry things back balanced on a load of wood
 
First I made this out of scrap wood.

 
The hitch pin has to be removed to fit it and when replaced stops the frame from sliding out.

 
 Next a made a box out of wood salvaged from a disused dog kennel.

 
 The box has yet to be finished, but has been tested for strength. Takes my 12-1/2 stone easily.
 
 
 
 

thanks guys,
 
here's a video
 
 

I am inclined to agree about it's appearance Norm. I feel it has that simple 'Bolty' look about it. Plus the combination of the colours and bright parts.
I've been struggling with progress, as I hit a wall trying to obtain some drive chain which is only used on a few vintage machines and motorcycles.
Zero response from two attempts over the last week, then tried another this afternoon where I got an almost immediate and positive reply.
 
So I'm over my last hurdle of finding parts hopefully, but I think I will have to make another obsolete part for the engine, not happy yet?.
 
Have made a little progress and assembled the Clutch/cable/lever, but had a problem with the lock screw gripping the cable tight enough in the lever.
Lot of tension in the clutch spring to overcome, so I've made a temporary lockscrew with a socket head to be able to tighten it better-
 
  -
 
 
Decided on the fuel pipe routing, keeping it within the frame and shortest distance. Original route can be seen in the 'as found' pics.
Just the Carb end to fix and solder, as this pic was taken when a trial fit was made, the coil position etc is now tidier -
 

 
As for finding a mower to attach it to, well it did come with the original mower it used to push back in the 1920s and here is a pic of how it attaches-
 

 
One or two examples can be seen around the show circuits affixed to a mower, or like this example (off the Web) where an axle from a different machine has been adapted to fit-
 

 
Would be nice to find a set of similar wheels to make an axle up for this one I'm working on. When it's fitted to a mower, the turning circle is enormous.
Looking forward to chain delivery.
 
    

I am inclined to agree about it's appearance Norm. I feel it has that simple 'Bolty' look about it. Plus the combination of the colours and bright parts.
I've been struggling with progress, as I hit a wall trying to obtain some drive chain which is only used on a few vintage machines and motorcycles.
Zero response from two attempts over the last week, then tried another this afternoon where I got an almost immediate and positive reply.
 
So I'm over my last hurdle of finding parts hopefully, but I think I will have to make another obsolete part for the engine, not happy yet?.
 
Have made a little progress and assembled the Clutch/cable/lever, but had a problem with the lock screw gripping the cable tight enough in the lever.
Lot of tension in the clutch spring to overcome, so I've made a temporary lockscrew with a socket head to be able to tighten it better-
 
  -
 
 
Decided on the fuel pipe routing, keeping it within the frame and shortest distance. Original route can be seen in the 'as found' pics.
Just the Carb end to fix and solder, as this pic was taken when a trial fit was made, the coil position etc is now tidier -
 

 
As for finding a mower to attach it to, well it did come with the original mower it used to push back in the 1920s and here is a pic of how it attaches-
 

 
One or two examples can be seen around the show circuits affixed to a mower, or like this example (off the Web) where an axle from a different machine has been adapted to fit-
 

 
Would be nice to find a set of similar wheels to make an axle up for this one I'm working on. When it's fitted to a mower, the turning circle is enormous.
Looking forward to chain delivery.
 
    

Well, those of you who have been watching this have seen glimpses of bits that don't really mean much.
So I have decided to let you know what this thing is, despite having a fair way to go before (if) any mechanical life can be breathed into it.
It's 90% there, but still have the drive chain hurdle to overcome. So bearing in mind that it's nothing really spectacular, it is uncommon. This is what it is -

This ad is from the Tatler Magazine of Aug 1922. I have other images, but are copyrighted and not for public use.
Designed to provide assisted (Ride-on) power to existing, manually pushed lawnmowers at the time.
So it can be called the first known British Ride-on that was available to the average domestic household. Earlier large private Estate/Municiple  ride-ons were available.
They were built by Ransomes, Sims & Jefferies for the MP Co.
At the start of this Topic, I mentioned the condition and it's neglected existence, albeit virtually complete. This is what it looked like-
 
 

 
Not my pics, but shows it was in a bad state.
It's debatable whether to replace some damaged/missing parts like the (left) lower end section of the Fan cover-
 

 
I suppose it is really part of it's existence, hard knocks 'n' all.
What I have found strange, is the varying immunity of certain sections to corrosion. Some very thin metal sheet parts are hardly eroded, but heavier, thicker spring steels
are heavily pitted?. All exposed to the same levels of weather. Suppose it's lucky to be able to save/use most of it.
 
Today, I've made up the Cables for Carb controls. Tricky job and I decided to set it up in a way that would be easier to manage.
Bolted the Carb to my Lathe tail stock barrel and the Levers to a bar in the Chuck-
       
  
 
 The inner cables were different length from a donor source and I had make them both the same length and produce new outer bowden cables.
Lots of careful measuring, as the 1926 Carb manual says never dismantle the Lever and cables !!. I had no choice. 
So with a lot of cleaning to get the solder to take on the shortened inner cable, all the ends soldered up and the bits fitted correctly-
 

 
And relieved to say everything operates/adjusts correctly -
 

 
Most of the control levers were in a bad state as mentioned way back and showed the end result, but here are a few of what they were like-
 
    
 
...... the  Counter shaft -
 

 
So here is what it looked like as assembly progressed-
 


 
And to date-
 

 
 
  
 
If I can get it running, it will be one of only a handful of working examples in collector's hands. Hope to have more updates soon
 
 
 
 
 
    
 
 
    
 
   

I am inclined to agree about it's appearance Norm. I feel it has that simple 'Bolty' look about it. Plus the combination of the colours and bright parts.
I've been struggling with progress, as I hit a wall trying to obtain some drive chain which is only used on a few vintage machines and motorcycles.
Zero response from two attempts over the last week, then tried another this afternoon where I got an almost immediate and positive reply.
 
So I'm over my last hurdle of finding parts hopefully, but I think I will have to make another obsolete part for the engine, not happy yet?.
 
Have made a little progress and assembled the Clutch/cable/lever, but had a problem with the lock screw gripping the cable tight enough in the lever.
Lot of tension in the clutch spring to overcome, so I've made a temporary lockscrew with a socket head to be able to tighten it better-
 
  -
 
 
Decided on the fuel pipe routing, keeping it within the frame and shortest distance. Original route can be seen in the 'as found' pics.
Just the Carb end to fix and solder, as this pic was taken when a trial fit was made, the coil position etc is now tidier -
 

 
As for finding a mower to attach it to, well it did come with the original mower it used to push back in the 1920s and here is a pic of how it attaches-
 

 
One or two examples can be seen around the show circuits affixed to a mower, or like this example (off the Web) where an axle from a different machine has been adapted to fit-
 

 
Would be nice to find a set of similar wheels to make an axle up for this one I'm working on. When it's fitted to a mower, the turning circle is enormous.
Looking forward to chain delivery.
 
    

I am inclined to agree about it's appearance Norm. I feel it has that simple 'Bolty' look about it. Plus the combination of the colours and bright parts.
I've been struggling with progress, as I hit a wall trying to obtain some drive chain which is only used on a few vintage machines and motorcycles.
Zero response from two attempts over the last week, then tried another this afternoon where I got an almost immediate and positive reply.
 
So I'm over my last hurdle of finding parts hopefully, but I think I will have to make another obsolete part for the engine, not happy yet?.
 
Have made a little progress and assembled the Clutch/cable/lever, but had a problem with the lock screw gripping the cable tight enough in the lever.
Lot of tension in the clutch spring to overcome, so I've made a temporary lockscrew with a socket head to be able to tighten it better-
 
  -
 
 
Decided on the fuel pipe routing, keeping it within the frame and shortest distance. Original route can be seen in the 'as found' pics.
Just the Carb end to fix and solder, as this pic was taken when a trial fit was made, the coil position etc is now tidier -
 

 
As for finding a mower to attach it to, well it did come with the original mower it used to push back in the 1920s and here is a pic of how it attaches-
 

 
One or two examples can be seen around the show circuits affixed to a mower, or like this example (off the Web) where an axle from a different machine has been adapted to fit-
 

 
Would be nice to find a set of similar wheels to make an axle up for this one I'm working on. When it's fitted to a mower, the turning circle is enormous.
Looking forward to chain delivery.
 
    

That's one beautiful looking piece of machinery.   
 
 Here's hoping you can get it running, then all you'll need is a period mower to push.

Well, those of you who have been watching this have seen glimpses of bits that don't really mean much.
So I have decided to let you know what this thing is, despite having a fair way to go before (if) any mechanical life can be breathed into it.
It's 90% there, but still have the drive chain hurdle to overcome. So bearing in mind that it's nothing really spectacular, it is uncommon. This is what it is -

This ad is from the Tatler Magazine of Aug 1922. I have other images, but are copyrighted and not for public use.
Designed to provide assisted (Ride-on) power to existing, manually pushed lawnmowers at the time.
So it can be called the first known British Ride-on that was available to the average domestic household. Earlier large private Estate/Municiple  ride-ons were available.
They were built by Ransomes, Sims & Jefferies for the MP Co.
At the start of this Topic, I mentioned the condition and it's neglected existence, albeit virtually complete. This is what it looked like-
 
 

 
Not my pics, but shows it was in a bad state.
It's debatable whether to replace some damaged/missing parts like the (left) lower end section of the Fan cover-
 

 
I suppose it is really part of it's existence, hard knocks 'n' all.
What I have found strange, is the varying immunity of certain sections to corrosion. Some very thin metal sheet parts are hardly eroded, but heavier, thicker spring steels
are heavily pitted?. All exposed to the same levels of weather. Suppose it's lucky to be able to save/use most of it.
 
Today, I've made up the Cables for Carb controls. Tricky job and I decided to set it up in a way that would be easier to manage.
Bolted the Carb to my Lathe tail stock barrel and the Levers to a bar in the Chuck-
       
  
 
 The inner cables were different length from a donor source and I had make them both the same length and produce new outer bowden cables.
Lots of careful measuring, as the 1926 Carb manual says never dismantle the Lever and cables !!. I had no choice. 
So with a lot of cleaning to get the solder to take on the shortened inner cable, all the ends soldered up and the bits fitted correctly-
 

 
And relieved to say everything operates/adjusts correctly -
 

 
Most of the control levers were in a bad state as mentioned way back and showed the end result, but here are a few of what they were like-
 
    
 
...... the  Counter shaft -
 

 
So here is what it looked like as assembly progressed-
 


 
And to date-
 

 
 
  
 
If I can get it running, it will be one of only a handful of working examples in collector's hands. Hope to have more updates soon
 
 
 
 
 
    
 
 
    
 
   

The answer is 'Balls' Norm!  ....................................Yes the item is the original, but I have added the dome to it.
 
Back around Xmas, I observed some Kiddies Ball shaped tins that contained chocolate of some kind. Managed to get hold of a couple and found one without any significant damage. Measured pretty close to the radius, so went for cutting a slice off for a test.
First job was to clean off the paint/ink to see what the finish was to the steel (top left).
I then had to polish it and measured the amount needed to slice off for a sample and what method to slice it off with ( bottom left)-
 

 
First go was 3/64"(1.2mm) short, so went for it on the good cleaned off section - 
 

 
Cleaned up and tinned with solder, it was soldered to the original, which was not easy as had to use passive resin flux, but went ok.
Had a good coat of fuel proof lacquer and settled for an old small cafetiere s/s gauze filter cut to fit as a dust collector. All done and will go nicely with the now very tidy Carb.
Regards     

Not long now Norm. Ailments have now delayed my progress. Only managed a few bits to date.
Cooling Fan was distorted, damaged and pretty corroded (see pic 3 of my very first Topic post). After cleaning and straightening, I balanced it up by filing the outer edges.
Then coats of primer, rubbing down in between them. After the first coat-
 
 
The Throttle controls (and cables) on the machine were beyond saving and scrapped. I had to find a replacement.
Not the best of condition, but initial clean up found it and the damage repairable- 
 

 
Plating was long gone, so had a coat of paint applied. The black bakelite type plastic lever ends were repaired using original Araldite mixed with lamp black.
Final coat of Cellulose lacquer. Other parts were either original plating, or polished lacquered steel and body correctly painted black enamel-
 

 
Machine had a 7/16" whitworth square nut fitted where it should have a hex nut, so I had to find and machine/file one down to similar shape and size-
 
 
 
The finished article and painted fan will show up in the first pics of the refurbed machine in a week or two ............tbc

Dragging behind schedule recently, but have nearly finished several parts which should all come together next week for a more bulky update and to probably reveal the ID of it.
Just to come back to the carb for the near impossible easy repair, I've repeated an image here that is in the link of the previous post to save any toggling for comparison.
I was presented with this dented mushroom Air inlet cover. Originally this was a bright shiny nickel plated cover, but as can be seen, the old 'anger scars' and corrosion is severe-
   
 
I can't call it a filter, as there is no mesh. It is not possible to get all the dents out. I did consider (briefly) taking the old outer cover off and
spinning up and soldering on a nickel silver one.
This rear view will show you the lack of filtration and I will probably spring a strip of oiled scouring pad in to cover the holes-

 

 
And the front, which I was not happy with,  where just filling and painting would actually be more work than the idea I had to fix this much quicker. 
I came up with this and now only requires a coat of lacquer after cleaning up the outer edge -

 
The Cooling fan shroud is of thin cast aluminium and has had a bad hit low down at the front, snapped a piece off and bent everything, also one wrong size nut fitted-
 

 
Having to make additional spacers so that the bolts do not crush (again) the Ali plate when tightened.
I'm carefully heating parts to ease the stresses before straightening. I'm using soap to indicate the temperature and it's going well, should be seen fitted next week.
Clutch cable is done but need to trim to length on the machine. Throttle cable (outer Bowdens) need to be replaced (tricky). Seat is finished ready to fit.
Fuel pipe is a challenge, as the two different tapered nipples were originally brazed to the old pipe, so I had to cut off the big one and bore out to fit on the new pipe.
The smaller one I scrapped and turned/machined up a new one and both will be soldered on this time .
 
Having problems with the final hurdle, namely the drive chains. These must be replaced, the originals were just welded together with rust, as they
were removed and left on the seat  over 80 years ago, Spec is unobtainable now?, no sign of any old stock, so may have to rob from a scrap/donor machine If
I can find one?.
    
 
 
 
 
 
  

The answer is 'Balls' Norm!  ....................................Yes the item is the original, but I have added the dome to it.
 
Back around Xmas, I observed some Kiddies Ball shaped tins that contained chocolate of some kind. Managed to get hold of a couple and found one without any significant damage. Measured pretty close to the radius, so went for cutting a slice off for a test.
First job was to clean off the paint/ink to see what the finish was to the steel (top left).
I then had to polish it and measured the amount needed to slice off for a sample and what method to slice it off with ( bottom left)-
 

 
First go was 3/64"(1.2mm) short, so went for it on the good cleaned off section - 
 

 
Cleaned up and tinned with solder, it was soldered to the original, which was not easy as had to use passive resin flux, but went ok.
Had a good coat of fuel proof lacquer and settled for an old small cafetiere s/s gauze filter cut to fit as a dust collector. All done and will go nicely with the now very tidy Carb.
Regards     

Well, those of you who have been watching this have seen glimpses of bits that don't really mean much.
So I have decided to let you know what this thing is, despite having a fair way to go before (if) any mechanical life can be breathed into it.
It's 90% there, but still have the drive chain hurdle to overcome. So bearing in mind that it's nothing really spectacular, it is uncommon. This is what it is -

This ad is from the Tatler Magazine of Aug 1922. I have other images, but are copyrighted and not for public use.
Designed to provide assisted (Ride-on) power to existing, manually pushed lawnmowers at the time.
So it can be called the first known British Ride-on that was available to the average domestic household. Earlier large private Estate/Municiple  ride-ons were available.
They were built by Ransomes, Sims & Jefferies for the MP Co.
At the start of this Topic, I mentioned the condition and it's neglected existence, albeit virtually complete. This is what it looked like-
 
 

 
Not my pics, but shows it was in a bad state.
It's debatable whether to replace some damaged/missing parts like the (left) lower end section of the Fan cover-
 

 
I suppose it is really part of it's existence, hard knocks 'n' all.
What I have found strange, is the varying immunity of certain sections to corrosion. Some very thin metal sheet parts are hardly eroded, but heavier, thicker spring steels
are heavily pitted?. All exposed to the same levels of weather. Suppose it's lucky to be able to save/use most of it.
 
Today, I've made up the Cables for Carb controls. Tricky job and I decided to set it up in a way that would be easier to manage.
Bolted the Carb to my Lathe tail stock barrel and the Levers to a bar in the Chuck-
       
  
 
 The inner cables were different length from a donor source and I had make them both the same length and produce new outer bowden cables.
Lots of careful measuring, as the 1926 Carb manual says never dismantle the Lever and cables !!. I had no choice. 
So with a lot of cleaning to get the solder to take on the shortened inner cable, all the ends soldered up and the bits fitted correctly-
 

 
And relieved to say everything operates/adjusts correctly -
 

 
Most of the control levers were in a bad state as mentioned way back and showed the end result, but here are a few of what they were like-
 
    
 
...... the  Counter shaft -
 

 
So here is what it looked like as assembly progressed-
 


 
And to date-
 

 
 
  
 
If I can get it running, it will be one of only a handful of working examples in collector's hands. Hope to have more updates soon
 
 
 
 
 
    
 
 
    
 
   

Well, those of you who have been watching this have seen glimpses of bits that don't really mean much.
So I have decided to let you know what this thing is, despite having a fair way to go before (if) any mechanical life can be breathed into it.
It's 90% there, but still have the drive chain hurdle to overcome. So bearing in mind that it's nothing really spectacular, it is uncommon. This is what it is -

This ad is from the Tatler Magazine of Aug 1922. I have other images, but are copyrighted and not for public use.
Designed to provide assisted (Ride-on) power to existing, manually pushed lawnmowers at the time.
So it can be called the first known British Ride-on that was available to the average domestic household. Earlier large private Estate/Municiple  ride-ons were available.
They were built by Ransomes, Sims & Jefferies for the MP Co.
At the start of this Topic, I mentioned the condition and it's neglected existence, albeit virtually complete. This is what it looked like-
 
 

 
Not my pics, but shows it was in a bad state.
It's debatable whether to replace some damaged/missing parts like the (left) lower end section of the Fan cover-
 

 
I suppose it is really part of it's existence, hard knocks 'n' all.
What I have found strange, is the varying immunity of certain sections to corrosion. Some very thin metal sheet parts are hardly eroded, but heavier, thicker spring steels
are heavily pitted?. All exposed to the same levels of weather. Suppose it's lucky to be able to save/use most of it.
 
Today, I've made up the Cables for Carb controls. Tricky job and I decided to set it up in a way that would be easier to manage.
Bolted the Carb to my Lathe tail stock barrel and the Levers to a bar in the Chuck-
       
  
 
 The inner cables were different length from a donor source and I had make them both the same length and produce new outer bowden cables.
Lots of careful measuring, as the 1926 Carb manual says never dismantle the Lever and cables !!. I had no choice. 
So with a lot of cleaning to get the solder to take on the shortened inner cable, all the ends soldered up and the bits fitted correctly-
 

 
And relieved to say everything operates/adjusts correctly -
 

 
Most of the control levers were in a bad state as mentioned way back and showed the end result, but here are a few of what they were like-
 
    
 
...... the  Counter shaft -
 

 
So here is what it looked like as assembly progressed-
 


 
And to date-
 

 
 
  
 
If I can get it running, it will be one of only a handful of working examples in collector's hands. Hope to have more updates soon