Project "Why Not"

[ranger 373]

I don't know about 'handbrake', I think you'll be using both hands and another part of your anatomy to hold on!

[Ian 2,417]

I think the handbrake will have to have a switch built in to the seat to operate it...   Clench controlled

[Ian 2,417]

Get this update done take 2.. I did try this morning but ended up only typing one line in an hour odd due to slight distractions in the shout box

 

I'm in danger of getting distracted again, it's only been 13 min's since I typed the above line, so I'd better get on with it!!

 

First of all a big THANK YOU to Doug (Ranger) for sending me a pair of late Mini (a Mini as in the proper car not the German thing!) 12 inch wheels which bolt straight onto the Reliant axle.. Thanks Doug, your a gent

And second of all, another big THANK YOU to Bryan the mad Reliant man for the prop shaft.. I know it's unlikely your be reading this, but thanks anyway

 

By the way, if you ever want any expert advice on how to wrap stuff for shipping, Doug's the bloke to speak to

 

Anyway, have a photo of the wheels and prop shaft.

 

 

 

The wheels will need a bit of banding (widening) to get normal size WH rear tyres on, it would be something I would normally do myself but do to the er... interesting speeds "Why Not" could reach I'm going to take them to an engineering company to get widened instead.. Best play it safe on this me thinks

 

 

 

Out of interest I slipped an over wide tyre on the rim..

 

 

 

Just to see how it looked.

 

 

 

 

The prop shaft was up for the chop next, after some careful measuring the end of the prop was cut off which was all i needed.

 

 

 

Splicing the Honda and Reliant props together should be quite simple, I will just make a collar that fit's both sizes and weld it all together.

 

 

 

Before I started thinking about narrowing the axle I thought it would be wise to balance a few bit's together to see how it looked with the fill width axle..

 

Eeekkk!

 

 

 

With the main body tub cut to fit over the diff, "Why Not" didn't look to bad from the front..

 

 

 

But from the back!!!!!      Yes, I think the axle does need to be narrowed

 

 

 

Hurrah!! I managed to get all this update done

[meadowfield 1,900]

that axle looks interesting...

[Anglo Traction 998]

 Good job you have double width doors on the Shack Ian !, Is this one going to need a Drag Chute and Castors on the back?.

[ranger 373]

I'm thinking "duallys" but put the second set of wheels inboard instead of outboard!

[Ian 2,417]

that axle looks interesting...

 

It does indeed

 

 

 

 Good job you have double width doors on the Shack Ian !, Is this one going to need a Drag Chute and Castors on the back?.

 

Yeah the double door will come in handy for sure     Not sure about the drag chute Richard, but a set of wheelie bars would be sensible

 

 

 

I'm thinking "duallys" but put the second set of wheels inboard instead of outboard!

 

Interesting thinking Doug, but the axle would still be way too wide..

 

 

Which is why yesterday I cracked the Reliant axle open to see what was involved in the narrowing process

 

 

 

The diff is in good condition but the bearings have seen better days and will need replacing.

 

 

 

The actual axles are quite meaty bit's of kit's, 27mm diameter.. For some reason I was expecting them to be a little smaller (Well it is Reliant after all), so I was happy to see the actual size of the axles

 

 

 

I don't really need to take the rear hubs off, but while the axle is apart I should really fit new hubs bearings so off the hubs must come..  Even with the brake shoes etc removed it's still going to interesting getting the axle and hub under my 10 ton press.

 

[rotoscytheben 94]

Get this update done take 2.. I did try this morning but ended up only typing one line in an hour odd due to slight distractions in the shout box

 

I'm in danger of getting distracted again, it's only been 13 min's since I typed the above line, so I'd better get on with it!!

 

First of all a big THANK YOU to Doug (Ranger) for sending me a pair of late Mini (a Mini as in the proper car not the German thing!) 12 inch wheels which bolt straight onto the Reliant axle.. Thanks Doug, your a gent

And second of all, another big THANK YOU to Bryan the mad Reliant man for the prop shaft.. I know it's unlikely your be reading this, but thanks anyway

 

By the way, if you ever want any expert advice on how to wrap stuff for shipping, Doug's the bloke to speak to

 

Anyway, have a photo of the wheels and prop shaft.

 

 

 

The wheels will need a bit of banding (widening) to get normal size WH rear tyres on, it would be something I would normally do myself but do to the er... interesting speeds "Why Not" could reach I'm going to take them to an engineering company to get widened instead.. Best play it safe on this me thinks

 

 

 

Out of interest I slipped an over wide tyre on the rim..

 

 

 

Just to see how it looked.

 

 

 

 

The prop shaft was up for the chop next, after some careful measuring the end of the prop was cut off which was all i needed.

 

 

 

Splicing the Honda and Reliant props together should be quite simple, I will just make a collar that fit's both sizes and weld it all together.

 

 

 

Before I started thinking about narrowing the axle I thought it would be wise to balance a few bit's together to see how it looked with the fill width axle..

 

Eeekkk!

 

 

 

With the main body tub cut to fit over the diff, "Why Not" didn't look to bad from the front..

 

 

 

But from the back!!!!!      Yes, I think the axle does need to be narrowed

 

 

 

Hurrah!! I managed to get all this update done

i quite like the width of the rear end personally

[diggerjames 543]

Looking awesome I'm eager to see how you make the axles narrower looks brilliant Ian

[Stormin 4,458]

I think some custom half shafts will have to be made. Not sure about cutting and welding using tube sleeves. Thinking of Ian's welding.

[mowerdar 98]

Years ago when my old man shortened a reliant axle to go under a yammy xj900 trike just cut down the hub end and rewelded the square drive flange back onto the shaft and never had a problem

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[diggerjames 543]

He might have too his Mate to weld it him on

[mowerdar 98]

Thinking about it I'm sure there's a cut down one in the workshop that I could take a picture of to show you what I mean I'll look first thing

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[Ian 2,417]

i quite like the width of the rear end personally

 

Add "big rear end jokes" to taste

 

 

 

Looking awesome I'm eager to see how you make the axles narrower looks brilliant Ian

 

Thanks James, I'm eager to see how I'm going to narrow the axles too    It will be a 1st for me..

 

 

 

I think some custom half shafts will have to be made. Not sure about cutting and welding using tube sleeves. Thinking of Ian's welding.

 

What are you trying to say about my welding Norm??     Point not only taken but also thought about before hand

In my defense a large part of my welds breaking on the 6x6 is down to the welder I have been using.. My arc welder just can't produce enough heat for the weld to really take hold!

If all goes well I hope to have the welding problems sorted today once and for all...       If I can't make my welds safe them maybe I shouldn't be building something like this project that has rather a high chance of serious injury or worse should anything break at speed!

 

 

 

Years ago when my old man shortened a reliant axle to go under a yammy xj900 trike just cut down the hub end and rewelded the square drive flange back onto the shaft and never had a problem

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

That's an interesting solution but it could cause problems should the axle bearing ever need changing.

 

 

 

He might have too his Mate to weld it him on

 

If today goes like it should do then I will be doing all the welding myself James

 

 

 

Thinking about it I'm sure there's a cut down one in the workshop that I could take a picture of to show you what I mean I'll look first thing

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks mate, yep a picture would be great

[mowerdar 98]

Just got the pics but it's all back together so don't think it was welded buts it's defiantly been shortened will ask the old man what exactly he did when I see him later

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[mowerdar 98]

Spoke to the old man he cut drive shaft down to where he needed it shortened machined down on side and bored the other to suit machined a v in to it then welded and machined it flush if that makes sense

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[Ian 2,417]

Thanks for the photo's, I see the axle was only narrowed one side so I'm guessing the trike was a 2 seater?

 

Yep the way your old man shortened the axle makes perfect sense      I can't do my axles that way as my lathe is too small to fit the shafts in safely, but the axles will be welded back together and then sleeved for extra strength.

[mowerdar 98]

Glad it makes sense and yes he kept the original seat on and only shortened one side to line the diff housing up with the drive shaft he also said the axle tubes where just cut down and bolted back in which is nice and simple

If at first you don't succeed Use a bigger hammer

[Ian 2,417]

Not much of an update I'm afraid, but work on "Why Not" has started again..

 

After a much needed clean-up in the shack the rest of the Reliant axle was stripped down..

 

 

 

All the brake gubbins was removed from the axles..    The steel bar behind the axle is what I will be making the sleeves out of.

 

 

 

One side of the axle housing cleaned up and unneeded brackets removed...  I may or may not reuse the outer axle mounts, so they will stay on for now until I decide.

 

 

 

Then after a chat with Nigel about how "Why Not" should look when it's finished, I found myself armed with a craft knife, a can of silver polish, and an old sock!!

 

 

 

And polished up a bit of one of the rocker covers to see how it looked!       I fear a "full on" custom paint job may be in order

 

 

[diggerjames 543]

I think it would look nice Ian with flame red and some flames airbrushed on keep it up !

[nigel 1,874]

you have to go the full monty on this one ian

[rotoscytheben 94]

you have to go the full monty on this one ian

i would agree with nigel on this ian that motor needs polishing  and custom paint would be in order it doesnt have to be expensive to be cool 

[Ian 2,417]

I think it would look nice Ian with flame red and some flames airbrushed on keep it up !

 

Funny you should mention airbrushing James, I've been itching to get the airbrush out again on something       But as it may be a while before I'm at the paint stage I will have to find something else to attack with paint..

 

 

 

you have to go the full monty on this one ian

 

I know mate, I know...   Me thinks the time has come to raise my standards a bit

 

 

 

i would agree with nigel on this ian that motor needs polishing  and custom paint would be in order it doesnt have to be expensive to be cool 

 

I'm not sure about polishing the whole engine, but any ally parts that can be removed easily.. As for paint, something tells me I won't be brush painting it with IH red enamel

 

 

After a busy morning wrapping stuff up for postage this afternoon turned into more of a thinking session..

 

But I did get the grinder out.. These are the original engine mounts cut from the bike frame, the trouble is that's what they look like... But the thick walled tube bit will come in handy for making my own mounts..

 

 

 

So I cut them out and cleaned them up..

 

 

 

Now for the thinking bit... Known as wheels..

 

Even though Doug very kindly sent me down a pair of 12" wheels that bolt straight to the Reliant axle (Thanks again Doug) I just can't shake the picture in my head of "Why Not" running WH wheels at the back..

Which brings me back to the problem of the Reliant axle being a 4 bolt 4" pcd, like this Kitten wheel..

 

 

 

And of course a Wh wheel has a 5 bolt 4 1/2" pcd..   With the measuring caliper divider thingys set at 4" apart you can see the problems with how close the new holes would be to the old, and also the new holes would end up too close to the er.. Big hole in the middle of the wheel..

 

 

 

Another problem is the Wh wheels are not what you call flat in the middle and any 4 bolt pcd pattern would clash with the ups and downs of the wheel..

 

Making a new wheel center with the right pcd would be quite easy on my lathe... The problem would be cutting the center out of the WH wheel accurately as it's way too big for my lathe..

Until I was sitting with a smoke and a coffee pondering the problem and I happened to glance at the rear wheels on my WH 312...    

 

It will take a bit of working out but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to make a 12hp Kohler powered lathe

 

So the new plan is to cut the center out the Wh wheels and replace them with my own made centers

 

[ranger 373]

Evening Ian,

  How about fabricating spacers by turning flanges,one to suit the axle,one to suit the wheel and joining the two with a spacer tube between them. This could be dimensioned to allow access to the nuts for the axle and the outer flange threaded for the WH bolts. this way you shouldn't have any conflict between the 5 stud to 4 stud positions Or a solid spacer threaded 4 stud one side, 5 stud on the other, remove the wheel studs and fit the spacer to the halfshaft with cap screws from the back face of the flange.

                      "Lookin Good" :thumbs:

 

p.s.   In the machinery sale there was a Nice lathe, Wilson-2 metre b/c 280mm centre height, £950.  and a Bridgeport mill  which didn't reach it's reserve of £500   with this lathe you could turn the wheels without taking the tyres off

[nigel 1,874]

if you hang on ian i should be having a big lathe turning up at my place in a couple of weeks and i will be needing a bit of a lesson of how to use it properly