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Stormin

Another in the stable.

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 Collected a '75 Raider 10 today with side discharge cutting deck. Engine supposedly OK, but gears cannot be selected. The idea is to eventually restore it, or make something special. The engine will go into the C-125 while the 12hp off that is rebuilt.

 Below photo's of as collected.

 

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Not to bad I suppose, seeing as it's been stood outside for a number of years.

 

The deck has not fared as well. But I think it can be rescued eventually.

 

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  First thing was to blow the tyres up to make it easier to push about. Next a good pressure wash. Strangely there's red paint under that blue. Then it was up onto the work bench.

  Just to see what would happen, I connected a battery. Turned the key and the engine spun easily. I did check the oil first. Cleaned and checked plug and points and got a nice healthy spark.

  Here is when I found throttle and choke cables/controls, very, very stiff. Never mind, choke fully open, throttle halfway, squirt petrol into the carb, turn key and......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It fired up and ran for a second or two. :o :D

 

While I set too on the controls, I left the old petrol in the tank to drain. Have no idea how old it is, but I've never seen golden brown petrol before. Well, not out of a plastic tank.

 That's it for now.

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10 minutes ago, the showman said:

Looks to be a solid tractor under all that, will be watching this post with interest

 

Don't really know what I'm going to do with it, Chris. Several ideas going through my head. :confused:

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Norm, I really like your Raider 10 it looks like a good machine. I am also looking forward to see what you do with it. Somehow it feels satisfying that it is not just Bolens that end up being painted odd colours. :)

 

I do like Raider's myself and I have a couple in my collection. For inspiration, a quick picture of my Raider 10 playing out in the sun a few years ago with some of the boys.

Iain

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Ahh

 

Red White & Blue

 

Norm. You should paint it white!! Got a 20hp Kohler Magnum coming up for sale soon if your wanting a engine for a project tractor....

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 Flushed out the tank and drained the carb float bowl. Strange light green liquid in the bowl. :scratchhead: All back together and fresh petrol in. Connected the battery and turned the key. Fired up and ran. :)  Briefly! :huh: Turned the key and the engine spun but didn't restart. But there was a slight tinkling noise. Turned the engine by hand and it turned easily. Turned the other way and it locked up. :o So I took the head off. Piston at top of cylinder and didn't move when engine turned. But I could push it down by hand.

 I think the con rod has come loose or broke. :( 

 I went to see the man I got it off and he refunded some of my money. :thumbs: So the raider has been tucked away, till I've time to investigate.

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  A bit of an update on the Raider 10.

 

 The side discharge deck went in the skip up at the farm. The shell was really beyond repair. I should have stripped the wheels etc off it, but at the time didn't think too. Needed it out of the way.  I could have done with them now. :rolleyes:

 

 Stripped down the engine today and sure enough the con rod was broken. The bore looks good as does the piston, which looks standard. The valve seats are perfect, but the crank needs a regrind and the valve head seats touched up. I'll give it a clean and take it to an engineering shop that specialises in vintage engines etc. We'll measure things up and see what needs to be done and see what I need to get.

 

For a 42 year old engine things came apart relatively easily. The flywheel took a bit of shifting, but using three legged pullers and a couple of good wacks on the puller end, it came off. Getting the crank out was a bit harder. I undid the alternator back plate, which didn't want to let go of the main bearing. So the crank was removed, with some persuasion, with it in situe. On the bench, using a couple of chisels as wedges, back plate and bearing parted company. No bearings were harmed whilst doing so. The crankcase seal on the drive side will have to be replaced as it is a bit worn.

 

 I'll take some photo's in the morning. I wasn't touching my camera the state my hands were in.

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 Thanks, Chris. Couple of photo's for you. ;)

 

  Block and crank ready to be measured. Valves to have their seats ground. Not that they're bad. And broken rod.

 

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  A pile of bits waiting to be cleaned up. Hope I can remember where everything goes.:D

 

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Not a good thing to happen with the Rod failing, but best it went then, rather than later:dunno:.

From the pics it look's like the Crank Pin is badly scored in line with the Oil passage. Also shows on the Rod end. Poor maintenance with Oil change history is evident there.

I've never seen a Rod break at that point before, Guys on RS always seem to have them break further up along the Rod and end up punching a hole in the Crank Case. 

 

I'll be interested to know the Spec 'n' Serial number of that engine, as they changed the Cyl Head style between 72 -74.

A shame your 10hp Crank is not interchangeable with a K301s , as I have a pretty good one, although under spec on the Journal and needs a -0.010" grind.

 

Can't see any Balance Gear Pins through the Crank Case apperture in your pic, did it have any?. 

Avoid removing the Camshaft/Pin unless absolutely necessary.

If you do and considering the current problems, it will be worn and will need to be carefully re assembled when the Cam Pin is re inserted. Let me know if you do and I'll PM

you a plan to remove and refit it.

You've got me wanting to do a full rebuild on one of these again now!. Great to work on.

Hope it goes ok for you and not too expensive:fingerscrossed:.  

    

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 The crank pin is not badly scored and may be repairable. I can't tell you spec and serial number as the have been painted over or lost. No balance gears fitted. Bore is ok so just new rings required. Need to price things before going any further. If going to be expensive it'll be a no go.

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