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Hi all another Tractor out for the rallies , now fitted with Rubber Tyres for the first time in years .Still quite a handfull even on Rubbers . Lovely sounding Two Stroke Engine 3.5 hp only second owner from new born in 1947 and supplied by A M Russell Edinburgh .to a Market Garden in Denny Falkirk Question should this be painted our preserved as is ,thanks for your comments

Only too aware Ray that running clearances in engines need to be as recommended to avoid nasty noises and disintegration. Just a matter of cleaning the old dry oily dirt off with scrapers and soft wire brushes, then finishing with a bit of soft scouring pad. It's not super polished, as I don't want it looking new. Starting handle in the previous post is reassembled, greased the tubing/handle before pressing back on. ready for painting. Returned to checking out the ignition bits to see what was needed. Having obtained the HT Coil and Lead, I started on the Points Box and when I opened it up, I found it surprisingly tidy- Clearly, towards the end of it's working life, it was opened up quite a lot judging by the scratches on the bright, heavy nickel plated lid. Repairs had been attempted by the use of hard (red) sealing wax to act as insulation under the screw head. The small insulating bushings were originally made of 'Ebonite', a hard vulcanised rubber shaped under high pressures. These had broken and cracked under the screws, but the spacer bushings underneath the plate were ok. I set about making new flanged bushings that would fit with the engine's age, and I remembered I had a rod of 'Tufnol' from the 50s that was my Father's. Good stuff this, but never machined it, so did some checking up first. Also found this Ad from the mid 1930s- This stuff was being made before the company was formed and is used on the 'Heel' of the breaker points on this engine (which may need replacing). The rod is surprisingly close tolerance in diameter ( 0.001" under 1/2") and dead straight. This version is known as 'Carp'. Fine woven cotton fabric tightly rolled, soaked in resin and pressed until set. Cut a piece off, set it in the Baby lathe and turned down to outer diameter- Clearance drilled for 4BA Screws, then turned down each one to 1/4" (6.35mm) and parted off. I used white spirit as a lubricant and helped reduce the dust level (mask and vacuum used). Cleaned up the part machined cast brass Points box. The wires are all still good. Finished bushes seen here and re-using the original spacers- The worn breaker heel (circled in the above) on the original points arm can be fabricated from this tufnol if I find the wear is too great for points adjustment. The arm and both contacts have so little wear, that I only had to lightly mirror polish the Platinum faces. Virtually no pitting, which tells me that the condenser was working as it should when last run. I plan to get this running with all these parts initially. Will attempt some repairs to the enamelled badge that fits in the Flywheel cover. Also need to repair the worn slots in the lightly cleaned up cover-

Afternoon all, After a few busy months I finally had the chance to make a start on the massey! The aim is to get it running for a show late in July. Heres some before photos in case you forgot First job was to get the front up on some axle stands, remove the hood and front wheels. The steering needs some work as everything is very worn. it needs some serious degreasing as well so the engine was next to come out, it also helps to have the engine on a bench as it will need a partial strip down. here you can see just how worn the axle is, it is a very lightweight casting and unfortunately it is a bit twisted. Next I made a new bush for the axle, should work just fine. after a bit of cleaning up. the original paint is in excellent condition, just a shame someone painted over it. These are going to require some attention at some point. On closer inspection, one of the engine mount holes has cracked, just visible above, now welded up. The idler pulley and steering column was removed and then everything given a good clean. For a 56 year old machine, i'm surprised nothing is rusted solid, didn't even have to use any heat. Next job when i'm home next is to replace the bearing in the idler pulley and sort out the worn steering components.

Hi all Yet some more pictures of exhibits for 2019, My Holder ED11 Single axle tractor with Butterfly Reversible plough and 3rd wheel and seat, had it a long time too also again 2 owner from new. Powered by a Sachs 500 Two stroke diesel of 9 hp water cooled thermo syphon no pump 4 forward and 1 reverse , It runs like a Clock I havent found any of these in the uk so far hope you like it i love it

Good luck Ewan, I'll be following your progress .

Thanks Alain! yes, as you say there is no engine spec number decal, the small hp decal is present and after scratching off the paint we can determine that it is a 7hp model.

If all the paints original give it a coat of Owatrol.

Here is the engine manual and a Massey 7E page so you can see original tyres and paint http://www.simplicityva.com/ymf/executive.html .You probably don't have the Kohler spec and serial number decal that was originally on the engine so you will have to look closely at the TP manual and find what sump, generator, air breather, rope start or electric start or both and other parts that were particular to your engine, by doing so you maybe able to determine the original 7 hp Kohler variant Duro Corporation installed into the Massey 7E. I would say it is real possible that it is a spec number of 2801 or very close to that. The TP manuals allow you to look up the spec number and cross reference which parts were used on your tractor. K161-L161_7HP_TP1053A.pdf

Morning all, well the MadTrax build (or should I say rebuild) has been flying.. Not quite finished yet but not far off Lot's of parts have been painted and bolted back on to the frame.. A pile of painted parts.. The finish on the fuel tank isn't perfect, as is the way once the top coats go on you can see all the missed bits!! But overall I'm happy with it.. I needed to do a few bit's before the O/S footrest thingy could be bolted back on, one such bit the the 90'd drive in the photo. The big bolt sticking out the top is the breather.. The trouble is I'm running the unit upside down! So the big bolt was replaced with something smaller and oil tight.. To stop the drive from blowing oil out through any/all the gaskets I needed to put a breather back in.. This bolt on the bottom (although it's now the top) goes through the casing, so it was drilled and tapped to fit a grease nipple.. The nipple was drilled out to remove the little ball bearing and spring thus making it a breathing nipple?? Handy for putting a bit of pipe on Not much left to bolt now To finish off this update, here's the latest video.. enjoy

The Jonsered appears to be 49SP http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/084bb064dcc6912b88256b69007e2ffa?OpenDocument The Danarm is a very nice old saw as well, http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/9185446ae58f5c7c88256b4e0066f91a?OpenDocument . The Pro Mac 60 is another nice old saw, http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/ab2c4eb6cab868aa88256c2e0075f710?OpenDocument . The Mac338 is a much newer saw that only appears old. about circa 2000

Called a deflector piston. Pretty heavy as well. weighs in at 520 grams without the Pin. Villiers used them a lot up to about 1934. then went flat top on most 2 stroke motorcycle engines when they modified the size and layout of the porting. Still used deflectors on the 79 Mk1 & 98cc Midget Mk's 2 & 3 engines which ended up in mowers etc like in my Yellow Mower challenge Atco- The Skirt ring must have been discontinued in this 269cc MkV during 1922, as the donor engine later of the same year had the same piston, but unmachined for the fitting of that ring. Thanks Ewan, It's making a pleasant change trying to save something that just under a hundred years old. Main parts of the power unit are back together now and feels nice with the movement- Working on the ignition bits now, but broke off to play with the all important starting handle. Pretty badly rusted up, but was able to dismantle into it's constituent parts. The top 3 parts in this pic, where the free turning hand grip tube was seized (frozen) onto the handle. The lower part is one of the control arms which needs attention- I had to carefully cut the old piece of tubing off, as it was solid and beyond saving. Searched for a substitute and found some stainless tubing that would just about fit. Being sold in 100mm lengths, I asked if I could have a piece 101.6mm (4 inches) and it arrived within 24hrs exactly 4 " long !!. Impressed. Went for stainless, as I reckoned the original was bright nickel plated steel. This will look ok. Initial clean up and prep required me to machine about 3 thousands of an inch off the 2 faces for the tube to fit on smoothly. Parts to finish and assemble. Even the Cotter Pin was nickel plated, but needed a new nut- Got some more machining to do before I finish the igntion bits.......tbc.