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I keep saying I have stopped buying however I came back with another load more pics to follow

Don't usually like to revisit old Topics, but this Tap came back to haunt me. I started dripping fuel out of the Tap and apparently emptied the fuel out on the floor probably over last winter. Having concerns that my workmanship, or the materials I had used were at fault, I took it back to find the cause. Glad to say the bits I did were not faulty, but found the fuel was leaking out of the lever end. So I stripped it down on the understanding that if I can't fix it, they will have to replace the whole unit (if they can find one). Talk about over engineered!. Seven separate parts just for the tap lever control !, including a plastic type seal which had dissolved/rotted which was causing the leak- So as usual, I hit the challenge and went for making a replacement seal from fuel resistant 1.5mm thick nitrile/nylon reinforced rubber. I had to make 2 special punches that could cleanly punch through the tough layers and in the correct positions- Glad to say that when the cleaned parts were assembled and the tap fitted , there were no further leaks. Hope I've seen the back of this one now.

No real update yet and haven't had a chance to concentrate on test running this, but have primed the Carb float bowl to test the float valve which I 'Lapped' to ensure a good fit/seal. Left it for a week to see how it fares. I suppose I really want to cover all the points that will make it work before fueling it up. In the meantime, I wanted to give the Spark Plug stock a good going over. I have the original 8 COM in the engine currently, but don't really want to rely on it. So I have 2 other 8 COMs and a Lodge BBL. These I've stripped out and cleaned, as they all can be dismantled for cleaning. Did the Champions first, one is 1930s (left) and the other is 1950s. The 50s one cleaned up best, but turned out to be dead. No continuity in the central electrode. The 30s one is perfect, 0.5 ohms resistance top to tip- Had doubts about the Lodge BBL, but after sorting the loose body electrode, it cleaned up ok- Has a reading of just 2.8 Ohms, so also good. This one is on the higher temperature side of the 'Warm' range that 8 Com is in and is good for Oily running engines. Also have a good Vintage Lodge CV and hope to be able to test them all out on it, but I have to make 2 different threaded (Thumb Nuts) for them. 2 early ones are threaded UNC and the CV is 2BA !. Hope to update soon.

Asked if I could do something to save this Fuel Tap from an early 60s machine for a friend. I first tried to obtain the part as a spare from the manufacturers (Karcoma). They still produce them for various motorcycles etc . No parts available even though the design is pretty well unchanged. The original little screw on Filter Cup is plastic with a coin slot and hex end to undo it. A mistake in design really, as they are likely to be over tightened, I suppose as there are no spare parts, they can sell more for replacement (up to £35.00 each) - The cup is the 3rd fuel filtration process which will also separate and retain any water (small quantity) and has a small cylindrical filter which fits onto small spigots both in the cup and the Tap body, so I had to measure carefully to ensure it is not crushed when the Cup is screwed on, but that the seal doesn't leak. I settled for Brass to make it, which allowed me to do all the work and produce and insert the small internal spigot, then Hard solder it in the exact position. I also had to I.D. the thread form (metric 18 x 1mm) and cut it on the old Myford (imperial). After reading up on it, I had to do this by manual turning, as you can't disengage the 'Leadscrew' drive, or it will be misaligned!. All went well- Fortunately, there were only 4 full threads and it was the first time for me producing them. To finish it off, I produced a new sealing washer from reinforced Viton rubber of the correct thickness. To reduce the over tightening factor, I added a 'reeded' finger grip area on it, rather than a screwdriver slot etc. All finished ready for years of use-

That yellow box looks like an electronic ignition module to me. Apart from that I can't help. Sorry! Alain (Headexam} may know as he has a considerable chainsaw collection.

Hi All here is the latest machine to come to Scotland my Birthday Present to myself hope you like I just love it It starts so easy and runs as sweet as a nut

We had a flypast at this years tractorfest - still have goosebumps now!