S1g

Very sad

I should have said members and it's 40 now.

A new record has been set today. 39 users in 24 hours.

Very odd - short of spinach?  I fitted lots of Sprints over the years and never experienced any issues  - just a good steady pull with no snatching. Even the Professionals with the 5HP BS require just a steady pull . I've just sold a tidy 3.5hp BS one dated 1969 with points ignition and  the fuel tank below the carb - from standing over night, two slow pulls with the ignition killed to lift the fuel, and then one on 1/4 throttle and away she went. I find that the cutting disc works for you rather than against you.

That's a bit different David, was that in the UK ?
 

Another unknown make O&R tool found in the completed listings search on ePay, It has a reduction gearbox driving a pump described as possibly being hydraulic.
 
David
 

 
 

Hi if it's any help the engine in the picture is the same as an F15 Villiers. They were produced with both the Villiers and the BSA badges.
 

Last few photos...
 

As Jonathan, (expeatfarmer) was not going to be able to attend the HVC ploughing match this year, he kindly offer one of his crawlers and a plough, to anyone who wanted to enter. I kindly accepted his offer and volunteered my mate Dunc. Never having driven a Ransome before, though many other agricultural machines, we met at Jonathans last Monday so Dunc could have a drive and see the plough he would use.
 

 

  MG5 imported from the south of France along with the three furrow plough hanging on the back. You'll notice, now I've told you, the plough at the rear is off set by about 2". Why?, you ask. Haven't a clue.
 
 We collected tractor and plough today and took it to Dunc's for a bit of practice. Neither of us having any idea of setting things up. The afternoon was spent freeing things up and with much debate, a couple of trial runs. More will be done tomorrow or Saturday, depending on the weather.
 
 Below are some shots of the plough.

 

 

 

 

Went to Carlisle yesterday to get some JB Weld. Stockist was shut.  So down to B&Q and I found a two tube epoxy adhesive similar to Araldite.
 Back home and back of tank given a good clean and a wipe with white spirit. Followed by a good smear of adhesive and then insulating tape over that. It was then left over night.
  The tank was refitted this morning and filled with petrol. No immediate sign of leakage, so I started the engine. After half an hour of continuos running all still ok.  
  While it was running I had a bit of a play. Throwing rags, bits of paper, coffee jar lids underneath it. I know one thing, it has plenty of umph.
 
 

Had a play today. Rigged up a bit of pipe work.
 

 
  Worked quite well. Fired a rag out of the end. Took it onto the green which I'd given a topping yesterday. Didn't half shift the grass. Even the big lumps and the strips of the tractor wheels. 
  When I had it running in the yard, it moved under it's own power. Jet propelled.
 
 
 

Thanks mate, were still waiting to drive the RJ as you will see..
 
So what can I say about the RJ... I think AARRGGHHH sums it up quite well!
 
I don't know what the RJ has against us but it's really fighting us at the very last stage!!
 
You would think something as simple as putting the steering wheel on would be easy, but no!
When the RJ arrived the steering wheel was held on with a bent nail.. Now most of the time it's because the original roll pin? has been lost at some point in time..
Not this time.. The holes in the wheel and column didn't actually line up very well so a nail was the only thing that would fit in!
I guess the steering wheel isn't the original!
Anyway, some very careful drilling and the wheel is now held on with a custom made quick release clip thingy 
 

 
 
"Deep breath"... Now onto the engine..
 
The very nice looking Schmacke or is it Schmacko? (It's hard to read on the photo's) has been driving us nuts!
The recoil didn't want to which was eventually sorted, the the "gripping" bits that grip the hexagonal shaft on the engine decided it didn't want to to the gripping bit!
Quite why we just can't work out, nothing is broken and it works 90% of the time when not fitted to the engine..
Fit it to the engine however and it will work for a couple of pulls then stop again!
If I had to count the amount of time the recoil unit has been on and off the engine both Nigel and I would have to remove our boots and socks as we would run out of fingers to count on very quickly!!!!
 
In the end for the sake of our sanity we decided to swap the recoil until over for one that works the more normal way, which in it's self is almost a straight forward swap...
Woo-Hoo we can pull the engine over again.... But why is the engine cover moving around so much???
 
That would be because there should be a bolt where this hole is... The trouble is the backing plate is missing most of the threaded bolt hole as it had been broken off at some point in it's life!
We do have another good backing plate to swap over, but that involves a lot of stripping two engine down to swap parts..
 
Forward one step, back two or is it four?
 

 
 
It's not all bad news though, we have had the engine running.. For a short while anyway..   Once started it would run quite nice for a few mins, then start running rough, then eventually it would stop!
 
Best have a look at the carb again, pulling the pin out that holds the float in place was nerve wracking as the casting one side which holds the pin in place isn't as strong as it should be..
 
Can you spot a problem?
 

 
 
Yep the new O ring doesn't like petrol and has grown somewhat!
 

 
 
No chance what so ever of getting this jet thingy out!!!
 

 
 
It looks like someone has been at the float valve thingy already!
 

 
 
Getting it out was er... Shall we say interesting!
 

 

 
 
The carb has now been put back together and will be going back on the engine once the backing plate has been swapped over (tomorrow hopefully) and the "will it run ok?" sequence can start over again..
 
 

Yesterday the little RJ started going back together, lift cable first followed by the engine.
 

 
 
I put a couple of bit's of inner tube on the frame before dropping the engine on.. It makes it easy to line the bolt holes up and stops the frame getting scratched while moving the engine about.
 

 
 
Cleaning out the grease nipples in a little petrol
 

 
 
Pulleys and drive belts on.
 

 
 
Front axle and steering on.
 

 
 
The crowning moment..... The tank isn't fixed under the hood yet, but we just had to have a look
 

 

 

 

 
 
Not much left to do, the paint for the wheels and the fuel tank sealant should arrive tomorrow, and I need to sort the carb out now the rebuild kit has arrived..

Really moving on with the RJ rebuild now, the frame has been cleaned up, primered and the underside has been top coated hence why the frame is on it's side
 

 
 
Is this strange two part valve arrangement a USA thing?  We had never seen it before!
It turns out that the strange two part valve is to make it easier to ballast the tyres. Thank you Evanloock on RS for the answer
 

 

 

 
 
Top coat time,
 

 

 
 
Meanwhile I find this old WH rear wheel with bolts welded through from the outside (not by me I should add)... 
 

 
 
Makes a perfect tool to hole the RJ's front wheel for a clean up.  Note the crack in the paint...
 

 
 
Well, the crack is actually in filler!!   Someone did like the ol bondo in the past!
 

 
 
And to bring this build thread up to date, lot's of freshly painted panels and parts
 

 

 

 

 

 

Glad your enjoying the build Neil, how could we not do a thread when there are so few RJ's over here...  It gives me something extra to make a few video's about as well
 
More progress..
 
Getting the knackered tyre off the front wheel rim was fun, the tube put up more of a fight than the tyre!
 

 
 
Does anyone know what the random hole in the wheel rim is for? It doesn't seem to line up with anything on the RJ and I'd of thought it would have two holes for bolting a wheel weight onto!
 

 
 
I wondered why the paint off the bottom of the gas tank had been stripped, someone has done a solder repair..
 

 
 
What's Nigel spotted in the tank?
 

 
 
Nope, it's not a mini star system but quite a few holes instead!
 

 

 
 
Some detail brought back by cleaning up  the pull start casing..
 

 
 
Cleaning up the rear wheels.. Someone at some point had flattened the paint back to a beautiful smooth finish and then for what ever reason gave them a quick (very quick) spray with grey primer..   The odd rusty bit cleans up very easily
 

 
 
The other rear wheel decided it wanted to leak water on my bench!     10psi later and water was pouring/bubbling out all over the place!    I'm not looking forward to popping the tyre off the bead to clean the water out and see how badly rusted it is inside!
I must remember to take a photo of the tyre valve tomorrow as I've never seen one like it!
 

 
 
A hint of things to come
 

 
 
Not forgetting of course
 
 

More of an RJ update for you chaps, let's have a look at the hood/bonnet shall we..
 
Interesting, a repainted gas tank with no fuel tap (Neil did mention it leaked ) and lot's of paint cleaned off the bottom!
 

 
 
What's going on under (or is that above?) the tank?
 

 
 
Soooooo... Someone has ground back the filler smoothing out the underside of the hood/bonnet to weld on new fuel tank straps! 
I'd guess when the hood was painted no tank straps were fitted.. It so happen that the strap welds are in the same place as the filler cracks above!
 

 
 
Who ever did it thought something sucked as that's what it looks like has been written!
No idea why when I upload this photo it turns it sideways!
 

 
 
Oh, and the top of the tank never got painted!
 

 
 
Out with the grinder and a workshop full of filler dust later it was good to see the rust was surface rust only, and only where the filler had cracked...    And a random pop rivet!
 

 
 
As the bonnet/hood has quite a lot of ripples under the filler, there was no point in taking it all out only to replace it.. So with the surface rust carefully cleaned back to bare metal the first layer of filler went back in..
 

 
 
Easy sand no pin holes filler eh! At least the easy sand bit was right.. No worries, a second skim will sort it.
 

 
 
Meanwhile I catch Nigel dancing with some masking tape and a bench full of RJ parts!
 

 
 
Some parts like the gear (I'm not sure it should be called that!) lever had never be repainted, so here it is with all the thick surface rust cleaned off awaiting some red oxide primer.
 

 
 
Some parts in the "need to to have the paint flattened back to give the primer a good key" Que
 

 
 
Some primed parts hanging about the place.
 

 
 
The hood now looks good with a fresh coat of red oxide primer, I'm happy with the overall shape of my filler work, there's a just a couple of little spots that are annoying me.. I will sort them tomorrow.
 

 
 
 
 

I've already said I'd altered the tool bar as in photo below.
 

 
  Today I rigged up a way to put a bit more weight on the plough. Dumb bar weights and a big piece of threaded bar.
 

 
  I'm going to try with just two of the heavier weights, then may add the two lighter ones.

The VHGMC horticultural ploughing rules state a minimum depth of 12cm. Just under 5". Not that I'll be taking part in any of their matches. My tractor and plough don't qualify.
  I put the tractor up on the lift and with the plough hanging over the end, board lying along the lift and plough down, the above depth was ascertained. Now the actuator that does the up and down business, has no in between position. It's either up or down.
 After much trial and error, the tool bar has been modified. The tongue that goes into the slot hitch has been raised so the tool bar is lower. It was also extended and now has two holes for the slot hitch pin. First hole is in the same place and the second an inch back. This has given me two positions. The first hole gives just over 12cm and the second just over 13cm.
  That'll do for now and the test  will be the Hethersgill Vintage Club ploughing match next month.
 
 

Deciding not to alter things to much, I cut off the folded edge of the foot plate and that has give 3/8" to 1/2" of clearance for the tyre. Next, out with the jigsaw and I opened up the hole for the fuel tank filler cap .        
  Put everything back together and time for a photo shoot.
 

 

 
And a comparison photo.
 

 
   By 'eck!  Wasn't expecting that much difference. 3-1/4" difference.
 
  That throws up another problem. Getting enough ploughing depth. Maximum I will be able to get is just over 4" deep. Could be another addition to the Black Horse topic.
 
 
                                                                                                                                                 

Looking good Norm.   Hurry up with the stickers though or the man with the big red van will never shut up.

Couple of photo's of them fitted.
 

 

 
  I did have to do a slight mod. When I fitted the studs to go through the wheels, I used a standard wheel as a jig. I've narrowed the wheels haven't I. Consequently  the studs were to long.  Cut 1-3/4" off them then fitted the weights using nyloc nuts.

Got them finished painted.
 

 
  That's it for now, but I do have a future mod in mind. Covers for the outside to tidy things up.
 

Here you are. Just for you.
 
Primed with red oxide.
 

 

That's a weird looking contraption Paul I've never seen anything like it, just don't lean back on it on your first drive, I can just see you wheelying down the garden flat out 😁

managed to make a bit more progress with the bottom cowl tonight.
A previous owner had welded on some stops for the bonnet to rest
on. All I can say is when I came to grind them off that they did a
very thourgh job of welding them in place! Took a look time to
remove.