CNew

I think the shaft slot looks normal. I’ll take a photo later tonight.

Well, what I had hoped was going to be a quick tear down and rebuild as a test engine for new gasket materials and seal alternatives has turned into a bit more of a project. I should have known better with these older model engines... This is is the first I’ve seen of a flywheel that doesn’t have a key. There is a little nub cast into the area where the key slot would normally be, very odd design concept. Mine was ruined upon removal so now I will have to pull another from a donor engine if I have one. It barely protrudes enough to catch the slot on the mating shaft. Another bad design flaw... This engine also has the plastic bearing cages...

I might, it looks like at least one of the cages has a crack all the way through. It’s still holding together and the rollers move freely. I’m surprised this old plastic hasn’t disintegrated completely, however I suspect running the engine might blow it to bits... I’m going to scrounge through my stuff as well and see if I have something in a donor engine. I don’t really want to put new parts in this engine, I’d rather save them for a tool project. I’ll keep you posted but if you come across some let me know. These older style plastic ones seem to be a little harder to come by. I wish it were possible to swap over to metal but the design is completely different. I’ll try to add a couple photos of what I’m running into later tonight.

Thanks John, I might take you up on that. I found another one off an old rusted engine- it’s pretty ugly. I’m going to try it first but I don’t have high hopes because it’s pretty corroded and rusted between all the little thin metal plates. If it doesn’t work then I’ll probably need to buy your’s. I finally got this little engine all pulled apart and forgot about these early ones having the bearings with the plastic cages - what a bad engineering idea that was... This may not have been the best engine for me to pick as an experiment for gasket and seal alternatives but I’m committed now...

Yeah, looking to replace this one. The plastic is so squishy and sticky it’s nasty! Now I just need to keep on the lookout for one of these older style coils...

Wow, that turned out really nice, almost looks new! You turned that one really fast, giving Just O&R some competition...

Ok, how about this...

Do you have a photo of the other style 1 hp decal you’re referring to?

Yeah, guessing this one isn’t going to be repairable. I’ll have to dig through my stuff to see if I have another donor coil like this older style.

Thanks! This one is a keeper for sure. I used the paper gaskets I cut but not the head gaskets. I’m going to pull apart a separate “test” engine to try the paper gaskets, new head/cylinder gaskets and shaft seals and O-rings. I want to try all the new alternatives in one engine to see what happens.

I’m sure this has been discussed before but starting a new thread to capture the knowledge. Is there a simple way to check coil function on the bench? I have an older style coil that is really beat up and I think has been exposed to some nasty chemicals or something because the plastic housing is gummy, soft and sticky. It also has a deep gash that broke through to the coil underneath. Not sure if it’ll function or is fixable.

Fan is direct drive, it’ll be exciting to turn this thing on. I’m almost convinced that this fan is intended to be used horizontally. The orientation of the tank, the throttle and how the handle is set up just seems to suggest you would hold it and point the airflow somewhere.

Now you’ve got me curious, how does the little valve work inside that brass nipple? I know the little lever/plunger inside the carb seals it up with the little rubber piece in place of the little steel check ball like on the other style carbs but I can’t think of how an additional valve inside the brass nipple would be activated.

Interesting, well that’s good to know. Mine didn’t have anything like that, maybe the previous owner had already ruined it. SORRY for the bad advice. Hope you didn’t get too far with this before Wallfish stepped in.

It’s worth a try. I was surprised just how solid that old oil/gas can get. If you remove all the inside parts from the carb, especially gaskets and the little plunger with the rubber tip then you should be able to soak it in carb cleaner. I think I ended up using a needle or small paper clip to get in there and dig out all the gunk.

Someone more knowledgeable than me will likely respond but I think I had one of those once and it was just completely clogged with dried fuel/oil mix. It took a lot of poking with small tools and frequent spraying with B12 carb cleaner. I don’t think the one I had had any screen or anything inside it but I’m not certain.

Those fans are so cool, hoping or of these days to find one. Interesting carb set up, I’ll have to study that one a bit more..

Finally, back together. All that’s left now is to gas it up and let it blow!

That turned out great; nice bracket and mount!

That’s a bummer to hear but I can certainly understand - I’ve been through a couple of those types of situations as well.

I’ve never seen one come up either.

I haven’t seen any material like this in the 0.035-36 thickness.

With fresh gaskets cut I’m finally getting the engine back together. Always fun putting all the little roller bearings back in place, especially the ones on the end of the connecting rod while sliding over the crank pin.

Yeah, life got crazy busy with the new job and move and it fell on the back-burner until recently.

Thanks David, I saw a couple of those listings but not the spring.