CNew

Unfortunately I’m not finding anyone that sells the Flexseals FMI 280 gasket material in the 0.03 range. Seams 1/16 or 1/8” are the common thicknesses for that one. I did find this other material from Thermoseal (C-4401) that might be a candidate and it’s more readily available in 1/32”. http://www.thermosealinc.com/products/sealing/by-product/klingersil-c-4401 Thoughts?

FYI, I sent Eric a note letting him know we are interested in the induction case gaskets. I’ll let you know when I hear back from him. Now to find a source of the gasket material for the cylinder head gaskets... I checked on the parchment paper sample again. No real visual change after soaking for over 24 hrs.

I found another material that looks interesting, FMI 280. https://www.aspseal.com/pdf/FMI_Non-Asbestos_Gasket_Material.pdf

I wonder if something like this might work for the cylinder gaskets? https://www.garlock.com/en/products/style-9850-high-temp-gasketing

Just took a peak at the parchment baking paper soaking in the gas and so far no visual changes. I’m going to leave it in there for a couple more days. I may also try to remove it and heat it gently just to see if it reacts at temperature after soaking in gas (I’ll do it over a bucket of water)...

I’m afraid this is about as clean as this shroud is going to get without messing up the paint. If it was metal I might go after it a bit more but seeing it’s fiberglass I’m going to play it safe.

Here’s where I’m at so far. Not too bad after some soak time in citrus degreaser and a ton of scrubbing.

I’ve got a small piece of parchment paper and the vegetable fiber gasket material soaking in some gas/oil mix. I’ll check it periodically to see what happens.

Looks like we might be able to get the vegetable fiber/detroiter gasket material in the right thickness. They have some that is 1/200”. Not sure yet if this place will sell direct to individuals but I’ll try sending them a note. https://www.phelpsgaskets.com/products/gasket-material/non-elastomers/7540-vegetable-fiber.html

Ok, did some quick measurements. The used gasket was anywhere from 0.004-0.005”, kind of a tricky one to measure. Not sure but a new gasket might be closer to 0.003-0.004” since it’s dry and hasn’t been exposed to gas and oil. The Parchment paper I have is 0.003 and the vegetable paper gasket is 0.006 as advertised. Funny thing is there is a thin brown oily piece of paper packed with each of my micrometers to help prevent rust and corrosion. It’s exactly the right thickness...

http://gasgacinch.com/home/products/ Anyone ever used something like this on the cylinder head gaskets to help create a nice seal?

Parchment paper is an interesting idea. Yeah, that one gasket is just so dang small. By the way that one tore when I opened up the engine on the fan... I’ll look to see if we have some parchment paper here - if so I’ll measure it this afternoon and we can decide. I wonder how stable it would be to gas and oil? Should we soak a piece in gas for a couple days to see what happens? I don’t mind coordinating with Eric since I’ll need to cut more sheets of the 0.006” material anyway.

I think this cable will work ok. I’m going to try some white heat shrink at the kink where the cable exits the grip to see if that helps tidy it up a little. Whatever this was used for the crap it was sucking and blowing was nasty and corrosives!

Cool, that’s impressive - you’ve got some skills!

Started doing some cleaning on the parts. Wow, not sure what got splattered all over the main fan shroud but it is glued to it like tar. It’s taking some serious elbow grease but I think I’ll be able to get it to a presentable state. This black gunk stuff also stained the paint a little. It won’t be perfect when I’m done but I’ll get it looking nice.

Just O&R, what yellow paint did you end up using on the chainsaw? I may end up trying to touch up the paint on the recoil housing - it’s missing half the paint. I don’t want to make it too new looking since the overall fan tool shows its age. It’s the braided/twisted wire type. I just got it free and moving so I think I can make this one work. Maybe if I can find some white Plasti-dip I can touch up some of the chipped and cracked areas on the outer sheath.

Curious, has anyone found a good substitute for these old O&R throttle cables? This one is pretty beat up. I’ll probably be able to get it free and working again but it hasn’t been treated well over the years. It’s a bit kinked and the white sheath is cracked in places.

Well I heated it and tried all the tricks and was just about to give up on it for the day when it finally started to move. After some more gentle persuasion it finally came free. Good feeling..... I think it ended up being a combo method. I did the “screw the bolt in almost all the way” method and worked at it for awhile. Then I did the gentle heat and quickly followed it with the bolt method at the same time. All the while I was keeping it good and soaked in Kroil. Oh, and because the fan blade is so thick it had two of the sleeves/spacers so I decided to use the long bolt and both sleeves when doing the “bolt method” and that’s when it started to free up.

Good idea, it may come to that.

Started on the fan. Everything was going ok until the shaft sleeve on the end of the crankshaft that holds the fan blade. It doesn’t want to free off.

Wow, that looks really nice, very cool! I started dismantling the fan this morning. Went pretty easily until I got to the shaft that is compression fit on the end of the crankshaft - man that thing won’t let go. I can’t rebuild that part of the engine until I can free that thing.

It’s definitely different. The hand throttle is interesting. Maybe some sort of early leaf blower?

Couple pics of the tank orientation and the direction of air flow.

Interesting idea, definitely keep us posted if it holds up.

Probably true, that paint removal process is time consuming. The fan will be more fun.