CNew

Ok, that’s what I figured. I’m going’s to check one more source. I have the guts to another engine that might be old enough to have the plastic bearings. I’ll pull the induction unit apart later today to see if it has one in decent shape.

It took me awhile to track down a source for the diaphragm material in the right thickness. I ended up going with a material from Alpha Engineered Composites. It’s a Fairprene product code WFP-B2N1. https://www.alphainc.com/en/products/fairprene/ http://www.fairprene.com/Documents/WFP-B2N1_Rev-1.pdf http://www.fairprene.com/coated_fabrics.htm Hope me this Helps!

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/threads/how-many-ohlsson-rice-tools-are-out-there.186270/#post-1568709

Would it be too risky to re-use this bearing? I don’t plan to run the engine much and since the bearing cage is all confined when installed I’m wondering if it might still work even though it is cracked. What would you guys do?

I found one and got all excited but the owner wasn’t interested in selling it.

Welcome to the forum! You have us drooling over the fogger, that is a really neat tool. PM me and I can also help you with a diaphragm if someone else hasn’t already got you fixed up. please add some photos of your Mity Moe.

That’s really cool! I have a similar model with the HU carb. I was able to find a carb kit on eBay. I haven’t tried to run the engine yet.

I’m certainly not opposed to keeping and re-using the plastic ones, just didn’t know if they were known to fail frequently. Two of the ones I have look to be in ok condition. There is one though that the plastic has cracked all the way through so I’m guessing it should probably be replaced.

So did you end up replacing the plastic bearings on the 400 with new style metal ones?

Very nice, that’s a great looking drill! Chrome turned out nice and bright too.

Here’s one of the shafts and it has a flat washer with the plastic bearing. If I switch to a metal bearing I’m wondering if this washer will still work or if a different set up is needed.

Thanks for all the research on this David, very helpful knowing the progression and changes in part numbers. Do do you know if the bearing swap is all that’s needed or are there any spacer washers or other pieces requires drivers to fit the metal bearings with the various shafts? I will try to add a photo in a little while of one in particular I’m thinking about.

What do those shaft seals look like- are they a U-cup seal? If so, let me know the ID and OD.

That’s such a neat gear box, love the three speed options!

Let me know when- I’ll join you...

You’ve definitely got some gems!

This is awesome! Yes, very helpful, thank you!

If you have a couple minutes can you send a photo of these? I’m curious to compare the design of the metal to the plastic ones? Wondering if I can find a metal version off a donor engine or something and it would help to have another visual reference since they won’t be NOS with part numbers.

Ok, cool that’s good to know - it would be much better with metal bearing cages.

Can the plastic bearings actually be swapped out with metal ones on these early model engines or is the design too different?

Came home this evening to a really nice surprise - this super cool original owners manual and parts list for the Clinton K-150 / O&R outboard, THANK YOU VERY MUCH Terry (Just O&R)! This is awesome, always fun to have original literature and manuals to these O&Rs! Very much appreciated that Terry!

Shaft looks normal to me.

Yeah, I made the mistake thinking it was sheared and initially tried to remove it and that’s when I found out it was part of the design. I use to be more organized but now that I’ve done a few these you start to know each little piece pretty well. The seals are different sizes or design? I haven’t removed them from the housings yet. I was also wondering about the little red cap on the needle valve- I hadn’t seen that before.

I’m working on it

Ha, I caught myself which is why I started the separate Type 117 thread...