CNew

Looks fantastic, nicely done! Yellow is always a hard one to match but I’d say that turned out quite nice!

Oh man, that’s a bummer! Glad you had a spare. I see the yellow paint on the tank - looking good!

Not mine, but here is a video of what looks to be a nice original K-150. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=29Qyn_N5Wmo

It’s a bummer but I just don’t have the funds on hand to try to negotiate this right now but someone on here should try to get this rare saw! Https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lancaster-Pump-Sla-20-Rare-Chainsaw-Does-Not-Run-Parts-Or-Repair-Has-Compress/114006353971?&autorefresh=true

That’s interesting, is the original engine too far damaged to fix?

There’s another guy selling the diaphragm, gasket and reed valve on eBay. That’s one route or let me know. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ohlsson-rice/114022973399?hash=item1a8c4c7fd7:g:h8IAAOSwSoNdxSlK

I can help with a carb diaphragm if you chose to go that route and end up needing one.

Very nice- that saw is going to look great!

I’ll second that, old grease in those gear boxes can make it feel like the engine is stuck. Some of that stuff turns to a sticky tar that almost glues it.

That’s really cool! I don’t know which O&R engine Type was fitted but I’m sure someone on here will reply with the info. If you look at the side of the engine on the mounting tabs you should see an engine model Type stamped in the cast aluminum. Your stuck engine might be fixable with a little effort.

Thanks, I don’t think I’ve seen the washer style on any of mine but I haven’t checked all of them. The O-rings arrived this afternoon and seem to fit perfectly. If anyone ever needs one just let me know.

Very nice, did you polish the back engine plate or is that how it ended up after cleaning? Good tip on the reed valve...

Cool, glad to see you’re back in action! That 400 is going to be really nice. I may have to try your cleaning ideas since I do most of my rebuilds in a spare room inside the house. I have a few cans of Seafoam, I’ll have to try that for cleaning...

Finally starting to ease into this project. Still collecting a few parts for how I want to set it up. This tan camo paint is a real pain. I spent quite a bit of time painstakingly scraping the paint off the rubber tiller handle. I think it turned out better than I expected. Once I got most of the paint scraped I hit it with some Maguire micro ultra cut polish (I know it’s not intended for rubber but it helped) then I washed it and put a couple drops of mineral oil on it and then buffed it with a rag. Not perfect but much improved.

Ha, I know! I’ve started working on my Derby Tiller but it’s been a little slow. One of the sections of tines has really rusted itself on and I’ve been soaking it daily with Kroil. I’m hoping it’ll break free here in one of these days. I don’t want to tear into the rest of it until I can get the lower end cleaned up. I think this tiller is going to be one of those you just slowly pick away at while you work on other stuff. I’m also slowly easing into working on the Clinton K150 outboard with the O&R 20A. That one is also going to be a lot of work because a previous owner painted the whole thing in tan camo for a duck hunting boat. I think the Cutoff saw will be my next “quick” project when it gets here.

Yep, that’s the one. I don’t think it had been listed very long before I go at it.

Yes, it looks like both tubes have a rubber grommet as they enter the tank. I’m guessing they might be a similar style to the donut grommet for governor vane on the 13A and B engines but I would need to check a parts list to confirm.

Cool, can’t wait to see it all dressed up!

I wonder if this earlier style cover and recoil would bolt up to a standard 20A? If so, and if anyone has an extra or junker cover and recoil assembly like this one I might be interested in it, just PM me. It doesn’t need to be pretty or have the decal either.

Absolutely, I learned a lot taking this one apart. Now I know sort of what to expect when I finally tackle my Ohlsson Rice Clinton K150 outboard.

Cover looks nice all painted up- what did you decide to do about the gas tank, did you find some yellow paint that looks close?

Huh, interesting. Thanks for all the research. Well I already ordered the O-rings so I’ll have plenty and they should work ok, it’s not like I really use these engines/tools much more than firing them up to enjoy them or show’em off...

Ok, figured it out. I was able to pull the oil seal (probably can’t reuse it now) and sure enough there was a clip holding the shaft next to the bearing. Also, Wallfish you were right, the pressure release valve does have to come off first. There’s just barely not enough room leaving it in. I finally got a 7/16 deep socket that fit the narrow hole in the housing. Piece of cake after that and removing the clip...

There is an oil seal on the shaft you pointed out. I haven’t removed it yet, didn’t want to damage it. Looks like I’ll probably need to pry that seal out and see if there is some sort of bushing or something that is holding the engine in. The pressure release thingy looks like it has room to clear the hole and housing without removing it first. There really isn’t any way to access it anyway without the engine being completely out. Definitely puzzling...

Ok, I’m stumped... I’m trying to remove a 20A engine from an old chainsaw and I feel like I’ve removed everything that keeps the engine situated in the frame/tank case. I can’t get the engine to budge at all. It looks like it should just slide out but it doesn’t so much as wiggle even with some gentle persuasion taps on the shaft from the opposite side. What am I missing?