CNew

https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber-feet Should be listed under Vibration-damping Leveling Mounts with threaded holes. https://www.mcmaster.com/60855k71. This is the super soft version. I go at some of the 35 and the 65 and they’re both nice.

I got these particular rubber feet from McMaster Carr. They have a couple different durometer choices as well. They definitely do the trick. It is amazing to see just how quickly the younger generation is becoming unaware of simple things like engines, and it’s very sad....

Here’s the finished stand. Ended up going with a hammered metal paint finish, kind of like the paint finish on the C-Saw.

Nice job on the coil fix! I wonder how well that one model survived having the grip handle mounted to the gas tank. Those gas tanks are pretty thin and flimsy, seems they would have been crushed with the weight of the saw being jerked around by that handle/knob. It’s super cool looking though!

That’s very interesting David, thank you for the detailed photos. I’ve never seen one of these really early carbs before.

As soon as I get back from this business trip I’ll try to get the engine mounted back on the freshly painted stand.

Finally put the final coat of paint on the little stand today. I ended up countersinking the bolt holes for the rubber feet. I think it will have a cleaner look. Once it’s cured in a couple days I’ll add a couple photos.

Cheers to that! Thanks Webhead- I’m thoroughly enjoying this forum and interacting with you all in this hobby. I’m learning a ton and having fun!

Wow, that’s a gorgeous saw! How did you come into so many practically new and unused tools? Your collection is amazing.

David, thank you for adding the other photos, it’s neat to see the various generations of this saw. Clint

I wonder if you could use heat shrink tubing to repair the old wire, either over top of the existing broken wire or maybe pull of the old brittle wire insulation and add heat shrink or something? I attempted a combo fix like this on an old Briggs motor that had wires that looked like the ones in your photo. Nice pump by the way!

Ahh, that’s good to know ahead of time. I was able to find my deep sockets, now just need to verify it’ll fit the valve. That’s too bad the Snap-On socket didn’t work out, they make nice quality tools.

Thanks! I may look at countersinking the holes that mount to the rubber feet to give it a cleaner look. I’ve got some other ideas for stands as well and just haven’t had the time to make them. I’ll paint this one up and add some pics when it’s done.

Haaa, I hear you. Most of mine typically take a few weeks or longer sometimes. I’ll work on them for a hour here and there during the week, but it’s hard with kids and my job. This Type 227 engine was probably the fastest I’ve ever done one. Since it was mainly a clean up job it didn’t require too much interrogation. I still had to pull the flywheel and stuff to get to the points but I think I’ve gotten the hang of that process. What are are you working on right now that you have on the bench? Post some pics, always fun to see what others are fixing up.

Wow, this is extremely helpful! Thank you for digging through the info, these service manual tips are best known ahead of time. I have some deep sockets but I’ll have to see if they fit. If not, I’ll probably buy a couple heaped sockets individually and grind the outer edge down to fit. I had to do this on a 3/8 socket once in order to remove a needle valve from the carberatur on my Kohler K241.

Thank you for the link! Another great saw!

David, I have decided to set the Mark II aside for the moment. I do plan to take it apart at some point though to check everything. I am going to read up on it a bit more, since it will be the first 20A that I have worked on and they look to be a little more involved than the 13A or B engines. I want to know more about what I’m getting into before I’m committed I’m really glad you mentioned the de-compression valve and the need for a proper socket. I’ll have to check to see if I have the right size. Thanks, Clint

Good point, forgot about the gear box being needed for a mini bike. One other observation on this engine is the gas tank has a little aluminum button/cap on the side with the fuel filler that is usually another vent line. Is this clue helpful at all?

Thank you David, you’re the guru. I’ll try to make sure not to mix posts in the future.

Cool! It’s funny just when you think you’ve seen all the applications for these engines you learn about something else. I would be curious to see a photo of your Mini Automatic.

http://chainsawcollectors.se/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?t=24406 Is this Western Auto Might Mini similar to the Wizard CAT 20?

Maybe this type 227 was used for mini bikes or something. I got it all cleaned up and it runs like a champ. I mocked up an idea for a display/test stand and added some really nice soft elastomer vibration dampening feet, it worked great. I think I’ll take some time now to paint the stand and make it look nice. I may also add a bracket off to the side to mount a small R/C fuel bottle so I have an easy fuel source for testing other engines that done have integral tanks.

So far so good. I got the points cleaned up, they definitely had a film of oxidation and gunk. These tanks are always a challenge to clean because you can’t see or access the fuel line and the pickup filter. I finally got it to where I can blow air through the fuel line so hopefully it’s clear enough to now suck fuel. Got everything else cleaned and ready to put back together. There must have been fuel mist or something mixed in with the dust, that stuff ended up being harder to clean off than I had anticipated. Hopefully today I can do the recoil spring and get it all back together. I’ll post some “after” photos.

My next quick project is a Type 227 engine. I’m not sure what this would have gone too but with this tank it seems like it would have possibly been a generator or pump or something (I’m sure David knows). Looks to be in pretty nice shape, it’s dirty but I don’t think it’s seen all that much run time. The tank is pretty clean inside and the piston and cylinder wall look nice. No real signs of carbonization in the exhaust collector. It also has the original nasty foam air filter and hard fuel lines. The pull rope looks practically new. I’m going to give it good external cleaning (including the recoil spring which is pretty gummed up and makes the retract a bit sticky), clean up and adjust the points and see if it will get spark and run.

https://www.clarkcountytoday.com/lifestyles/video-the-chainsaw-museum-of-clark-county/ chainsaw collector has a nice display of O&R saws.