CNew

Yep, Eric was awesome and cut me a few that I plan to experiment with and test. I’ll probably arrange to send him some more material at some point to cut a larger batch if they end up working out well.

I have a few. They may not be the exact brand material that Wallfish used but it should be very similar. I tracked down this material specifically for thin diaphragms. It is the correct thickness as well. I tested a small piece in some fuel for a few weeks and it seemed ok but I haven’t officially got any hours of use yet in an O&R engine. Thanks David - I was thinking the same thing. Given the age I was expecting the carb that has the flat top with no primer button. Indeed one of the caps has one or two small specs of red paint remaining on it. I’m assuming red is for gas and the aqua cap is for oil. If so, a previous owner may have made the mistake of putting oil in the gas side and fuel in the oil side. I’m still investigating...

Thanks, yes it looks to be in generally good shape. Should be a fun one to clean up! If Wallfish doesn’t have diaphragms I might be able to help you out, PM me once you know. Thanks! I hope I don’t uncover anything too out of place once I get into it. Looks pretty good on the outside.

Newest addition to the collection, just picked up this Comet saw this morning. Pictures are as-purchased condition. I’ll add some more photos once I’ve had a chance to clean it up and go through it a little.

I’m already hunting for some of the magazine articles you listed!

David, Thank you very much for taking the time to capture this wealth of great information - this is indeed very kind of you and an amazing resource to all of us that enjoy collecting these O&Rs! Cheers! Clint

Fascinating - nice detective work David! Amazing the level of info you’re able to access. This is all part of the fun exploring and learning about these things. I’ve seen some parts listed on eBay for the Sears Mighty Light. That decal is indeed perplexing.

That’s interesting David. The only Sears tool I’ve seen is the chainsaw but those were all white as far as I’ve seen.

Yes, very strange. I can’t believe anyone would pay that amount for just an engine, even if it was mint condition. When I look at the photos closely it looks like the engine has been cleaned up very nicely and perhaps has low hours of run time but it also looks like someone may have painted it again and added reproduction decals. I’m not convinced it’s “all original”.

Curious, I’ve been watching (not bidding) this eBay listing and I’m baffled why this particular engine is in such high demand. I don’t see anything unique about it vs other similar new ones I’ve seen come up for sale and stay well below $200. The ends of the gas tank look a little bit different but everything else seem so pretty standard. Is this an ultra rare model or something? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ohlsson-Rice-1-HP-Motor-Excellent-Condition-Runs-Great/143231081204?hash=item21593cdaf4:g:6sQAAOSwwpVcw7Um

Wow, I watch eBay like a hawk and never saw this come up. That’s too bad...

Beautiful saw! I might be an interested buyer, PM me and maybe we can discuss price!

This is great detail to know - thanks David!

WOw, good to know!

What will happen if the piston is frozen and they try to unscrew the head? I have an engine that has a frozen piston and I’ve had is soaking for a couple months now in Kroil and it’s not budging.

So do you think standard chromed steel balls of these dimensions will work? These should be pretty easy to source (I would think).

Thanks John - I’ll have a closer look at the ball valve and see if maybe the ball is worn or getting stuck. I used a new lever during the last rebuild so hopefully it’s engaging properly. Clint

That foam is nasty! I just removed a similar mss from one of my air cleaners. Your post on the trimmer inspired me again and I was finally able to get my Orline trimmer running this weekend. I ended up having to swap carburetor diaphragm assemblies even though I rebuilt the original one that was on it twice. I’m going to have to open it up the diaphragm again and see what’s going on in there and causing it to malfunction. I know I put it back together correctly but it just doesn’t pump.

Mine too, the plastic disc seemed to stay in place pretty well.

Got it all back together and it seems to be working correctly, at least no broken springs yet. Thanks again David for all your help! David, I should have waited just a bit longer, your step by step pictures would have r ally simplified things. I think I more or less did your sequence. I attempted the paper thing and found I didn’t really need it. I’m sure I’ll have to take this or another 13B apart again so this procedure you’ve documented will be perfect! Thanks again for all your help! Clint

I’m still tinkering with this 13B starter recoil. The 20A instructions are helpful but also a little confusing but I think I’ll figure it out. I’m thinking a couple of the steps don’t really apply since the rope spool is different and the way it all mounts to the blower cowl is different as well. Hopefully I don’t get the spring wrong and break it...

Finally getting back to this 13B recoil spring. I’ve gotten as far as getting the spring wound and secured inside the housing. Next step will be to replace the pull rope since someone used an incorrect diameter rope and length. Then I’ll attempt the CCW spring winding and install procedure that David so kindly referenced in the 20A service manual.

Wow - that’s impressive! I’d never heard of that trick before. I’ve seen 0000 steel wool but never aluminum foil. I know what I’m going to try on my next handle clean up job Clint

Yes, the one For $149 is the one I was referencing - I indicated $193 because I was including the $43 shipping costs in the total.

Thanks David, that’s good to know. I didn’t pick up on that bracket detail at first.