CNew

Hello, I’m still very new to O&R but learning a ton about these engines from all the great posts and enthusiasts on this forum. One thing I’m still a little puzzled by is how to distinguish between the 3/4 and 1 hp models when the decals are damaged or missing. Are there any obvious tell-tale signs or clues that I can look for, or specific model/types? I hope his new thread lands in the right spot. If I’ve goofed again, my apologies and I’ll need a little guidance as it seems I’m in the right Ohlsson section when adding a new thread. Thanks!

Thank you Paul! I will try to add new threads in the right location going forward.

Hello David, Thank you, my apologies for having these threads in the wrong spot. I guess I didn’t realize you could specify location - I’m still learning how to navigate the forum. Is there an easy way to move them to the right spot? I think I’m going to get a small dental mirror to see if the fuel pick-up pipe is visible inside the tank on the carb side as you suggest. If the fuel line is all rotted I’m not sure how I’ll get in there. It looks like the bottom of the tank is glued on somehow so maybe worst case I’ll have to heat it up and try to pry off the bottom. Yes, unfortunately the recoil starter is missing. I may use this as my learning engine to do my first full tear down and rebuild. I’m anxious to see all the internals and learn more about how they’re constructed (can’t help the engineer in me). Thanks, Clint

Just picked up this Ohlsson & Rice Dyna-Mite, mainly for parts. I think it was originally an O&R Life-Savr generator but it is missing the actual generator section of the unit. Does anyone know what size cap might fit this tank or have a spare cap you might be willing to sell? Also, the tank looks very clean inside but I was suprised to see that there isn’t any sort of fuel pick-up tube that comes down from the fuel nipple. Should it have such a thing or is the fuel sucked up by some other means? If it is indeed missing the fuel pick-up tube are there any suggestions as a possible fix? Thank you for all your expert advice!

Did this ever sell?

David, I bought some UNI brand green filter foam that is 5/8” thick and I can cut out the circles to replace the old filter that has completely disentigrated. Question, the UNI manufacturer recommends oiling the foam for proper filtration. Have you found this to be a good practice even for the O&R engines or should I avoid that step, just looking for a second opinion. Thanks, Clint

Nice, $8 is a good deal. I’ve done business in the past with Abebooks so I’ll have to check them out again as well. Yes, I think you’re correct about the BIN listings, nice catch. I’d prefer to find originals when possible so I may hold off on these for now. Anoying when people don’t specify when they are selling photo copies. Clint

Thanks David! I’m watching a couple eBay listings for the Small Air Cooled Engines manual. I also found a listing for a manual and parts list for an Orline chainsaw that probably has some good info as well. Let me know if there is anything specific you’d like for me to keep an eye out for here in the US and I’ll do my best to let you know if it shows up. Happy to help however I can. Clint

David, I’m definitely hooked now with these engines, they’re addictive. Do you have any recommendations on specific operator and service manuals or other sources of information for these O&Rs? I saw a reference in another post to the Small Air Cooled Engines manual and I plan to get my hands on one of those as soon as possible. In addition to the engines I enjoy collecting misc advertisements and technical information and thought I would see if you had any suggestions of where I might go looking. By the way, I think I’ve located some 3/32 x 3/16 Tygon fuel line. Thanks! Clint

David, Thank you very much, that’s exactly what I needed! I’ll check around for this size in Tygon but if that’s not available I will hunt down the Oregon tubing. Clint

Just to ensure I get the correct size, what is the recommended fuel line size for these O&R engines? I was planning to get some Tygon line and there are quite a few options.

David, I like the way you think. I’m going to keep it original and see what I can do to fix the stickers and clean up the paint without more of it chipping off. I’ll have to read up on the o-ring/seal fix thread to see if I can somehow improve that issue. Thank you for the additional info on AEP as well. I just missed a Drillgine this past week on eBay and I’ve been kicking myself for not jumping on it. I’m still trying to learn what the value/price scale for some of these tools should be and I still don’t know what constitutes a good deal. Seems the range is quite large. If you haven’t seen it already there is a neat Warn winch O&R on there right now but they’re asking a lot for it (a lot in my book anyway) but it looks new. Clint

Webhead, I may have an opportunity where I might need one of these. Are you interested in maybe selling one? If so, what would you be asking? Thanks! Clint

Wow, that’s too funny. Yep, I met Oakslayer/Keith today to pick it up. I need to look into it further to see what he meant with the “seal leaking” reference. As soon as I can get some fuel/oil mixed I’ll be able to run it longer and get a better sense for what issues it might have, if any. I haven’t tried the auger yet to see if it turns. It has a fair amount of chipped paint and stickers pealing off. I need to decide if I ant to fix it up or leave as-is and just get it running well. I’m curious, are there any common problems that the later O&R engines are known for or the ones after Advanced Engine Products bought them out? This one is a model 13B. Clint

Thought I would share my latest edition. Picked up this Strikemaster Icemaster today. Runs ok but need a thorough cleaning and tune up.

Webhead, Do you still have any of these carburetors? clint

Most of the regular fuel on my area is 10-15% ethanol. I did find one station that sells “non-oxy” which they advertise as for small engines and supposed to have less or no ethanol but they don’t give much details.

Thanks Webhead and Factory, I really appreciate your expertise and insight. I will give the Stihl oil a try. Do you think there is any value in getting the Stihl fuel premix (50:1) and adding additional oil to bring it to 32:1? Seems like the fuel they use would be better quality than service station gas that has high ethanol%. I dont know if Stihl also puts other additives in their premix that might be harmful to these older engine seals and other plastic or rubber parts. Thanks- Clint

Thanks David! The photos of the foam are helpful. I agree, the glowplug adapter is interesting. I’ve got it out now and will go with a normal spark plug. I may stop at the local hardware store again that sells Stihl and see if there is anyone there that might have some insight on the oil composition. Since Stihl doesn’t say anything on the official website I’m thinking it may be a hard fact to uncover. clint

Interesting, after a little researching it doesn’t appear Stihl sells the standard HP (red) oil here in the USA. All I’m seeing is their HP synthetic version. Is Amsoil a possible good alternative?

Thanks! It does appear that the air filter is pretty much disintegrated, not much left. What do you normally use to replace it, some new foam air filter from a modern engine cut down to size? I also just noticed that this engine has some sort of adapter where the spark plug threads into the head. I was able to unscrew it and remove it. It had a very small hole threaded into the center, could this have been for using a glow plug or something? With the plug out it actually looks like this engine may have never been run. Clint

The engine arrived this afternoon, earlier than expected. After a quick look over I’m starting Tom thing this engine has been used very little, if at all. It looks to be all there. The governed system is interesting. Wish I had a gas tank for it... here are some photos, enjoy. Clint

David, Thank you for all the advice on the oil/fuel. I’ve started reading through older threads you listed. Like you I think I’d like to make very small batches at a time. I have access to a local hardware store that carries Stihl brand chainsaws and they should have the 2-stroke oils that were mentioned. Most of the service station gasoline here has 10-15% ethanol so I plan to stay away from this stuff. I found one station that has what they call “non-oxy” fuel that is supposed to have much less or no thanks and is for use in small engines, boat engines, etc. and I use it my lawn equipment. But for the O&R I will stick to the recommendations here from the experts here. Do you do the 32:1 ratio with a modern 2-stroke oil? Clint

Also, regarding the fuel mixture - is there a consensus on if it’s best to use a TruFuel type product that is engineered without the high ethanol % content, etc. of common pump gasoline? I’ve found individual cans of high octane (92-93) at the hardware store that are free of ethanol and I was wondering if this might be a good route to go for mixing with the SAE 30 oil. Most of the 2-cycle weed-wacker and chainsaw premixed fuels around my area tend to be 50:1 ratio. I don’t plan to run this engine much, just occasional use to show it off kind of thing so I don’t mind spending a bit more to get a good quality fuel that will prolong life and integrity of the engine. One of these days I would like to find a Drillgen or a small outboard boat motor powered by one of these engines. The Tiny Tiger generators are pretty neat too but tend to be pretty pricey. I saw a post somewhere on here where someone has an entire shed filled with a collection of tools, very impressive and a beautiful collection!

Hello David, Thank you, I think I need to read that NIAE report a couple more times. Am I to understand that these earlier models may not be as well constructed and potentially prone to premature wear or failure? I appreciate your connecting me with Webhead and Wallfish as well. I will be in touch with Webhead shortly to pursue the diaphragms. I was also able to find a couple Champion UY6 plugs and have them on order. Thanks, Clint