ranger

To get the drive from the Honda bike gearbox to the TB I had to find a way of turning the drive direction around by 90'd..
One of the steering UJ's fitted with the the splined section from the original CX/trike propshaft..
 

 
 
The shaft will run diagonally between the engine and TB with a nice meaty bearing to hold it in place.
 

 
 
And via this double UJ thingy the drive will come out the side of the frame through another meaty bearing and put the drive in the same orientation as the TB input shaft..
 

 
 
Working out space for the TB to front drive shaft.
 

 
 
Using a mixture of different shafts and UJ's there is plenty of space to run the front drive up the side of the engine.
 

 
 
Hhhmm... Maybe not quite the same size where they need to be joined!
 

 
 
A bit of lathe work later..
 

 
 
Ta-Daa
 

 
 
Not fully fitted together in this photo as I don't know the exact length yet, but you get the idea
 

 
 
Popping back around to the other side of MadTrax for a mo, the pulley (I will be using chain and sprockets) is about the right size to give me an idea how much space I need to create to fit a bearing in.
 

 
 
I need to slice some of the frame out here, but I planned to do that anyway to get rid of the un-needed swing arm mount.. It's the only bit left that says "I've welded a few extra tubes to a bike frame"
 

 
 
The bearings arrived Wednesday but I've not had a chance to do anything with them.. That's fun for tomorrow
 
 

HI Doug, I've had another thought on the clamp thingys.. Rather than take metal off of one side to balance the UJ's, it would be better and stronger to add metal to one side and build it up with weld (making sure not to let things get too hot) until both sides match..
 
 
While waiting for the bearings to turn up, I thought I'd make a start on a sleeve to fit over the input shaft on the TB..
Not the best photo (I will get a better one) but here's the shaft in question.
 

 
 
The only bit of steel bar I have which is long enough is made from very hard steel and looks like it has been used to hold a JCB bucket on... That sort of hardness!
Anyway, I can make it in two parts and weld them together which would make it easier turning the tapered part half way down the shaft inside..
These two lumps I made years ago as pivot points for a dozer blade that was going to go on the 6x6..
A lot of turning to get them down to size!
 
At least one is mostly done
 

 
 
Woo Hoo... The bearings arrived
Here's the TB to front end bearing mocked in place..
 

 
 
Best start getting the bearings mounted then.. First up something to bolt them to.. Well, a couple of somethings..
 

 
 
Bolted on. The black bit of steel across the lower bearing bolts is just to keep the bearing square to each other.
You can just see where I welded on some tempoary bracing to the drive shaft to stop anything moving about withough the axle stand and other bits that were holding the bearings etc in place.
 

 
 
If you flip the bearings over you can see the captive nuts that have been welded on... Don't think they are going anywhere
 

 
 
Now the fun bit.. Making four somethings to bridge the gap between the back of the bearings and the chassis/frame..
 

 
 
Starting with a bit of CAD (cardboard aided design) work..
 

 
 
Which goes somewhere here.. Rather hard to hold it in place and take a farto at the same time!
 

 
 
Roughly cut out of steel..
 

 
 
That looks better.
 

 
 
Four of em made and tacked in place..
 

 
 
Bearings off..
 

 
 
Fully welded up... Almost..  It will be easier to weld the extreme top on bottoms where the brackets fit on the frame without the engine in and sump guard in place, so that can wait until stripdown time.
 

 
 
Welds ground down, a nice curve at the back to clear the engine.
 

 
 
And most importantly, there is still plenty of UJ clearance here..
 

 
 
And here
 

 
 
And to finish off this update, a photo of the bearings etc quickly bolted on for this very photo.. The mounts were still very hot from welding and grinding so I didn't want the bearings sitting getting hot for too long..
 

If you're going to use those steering shafts for drive shafts, how about balance? Those clamping thingy's look a bit offset.

Many Happy Returns Paul.
Have a great day

Hi Everyone
I don't know if any one has seen this advertised for tomorrow, just outside Downham Market on the A10.
 
agricultural gear etc, + around 20 Wheelhorses  inc 512D, law ranger, snowploughs, grader, cultivator, tiller, or 2 WH 4wheel cart, plough. Speedex GT, 
Saxon garden tractor tipping trailer, and lots more.
online catalogue available.
p.s. There's even a B700 for Nigel
 

Many happy returns Ewan, Have a great day 

My plan was to put the Onan generator on the Ariens GT14H with the 54 inch front plow (removing the plow of course) and Brinly tandem disc, but the front crankshaft had been previously damaged somehow and the electric PTO clutch would not operate correctly and I feared it might ruin the clutch. Since the Onan generator was made for an Ariens front mount I removed the 48" front shaft drive snow blower from my other Ariens GT14H, not a difficult task and I tested it out and I am ready for any power outages. In all fairness the odds of me needing a 48" shaft drive Snow Blower here in Oklahoma are very slim and I have at least 4 other tractors that have front snow plows on them now and I can outfit 8-10 more. My next project is to hook up a disconnect and power outlet to run the 240 volts from the generator into the electrical panel. I'm going to have a real certified licensed electrician do this as I have already been electrocuted too many times, not fun, But in the mean time we can run a few extension cords in emergency to power the essentials, refrigerator, freezer, coffee pot, TV, computer and phone chargers. We have a fireplace and 14" thick walls we don't need to turn the heat on very often anyway

Hi all
This is my new attempt at making my plough work
The problem with my Gutbrod plough is the mouldboard is not long enough for competition match ploughing although I have great success with it .Think it is time for a change the photos are of a mock up of how I would like the plough to look. I will have nine inches more beam giving me space for a disc and a skimmer, the mould board is 12 inches longer and should make a nicer furrow only time will tell once I am happy with settings it will all be welded up

No drooling
https://www.purplewave.com/auction/171107/item/DC3801
 

Many Happy Returns Iain, have a great day

The other bidder would have got the Cub for £20.00, but nasty me ran him up to £300.00!

The other bidder would have got the Cub for £20.00, but nasty me ran him up to £300.00!

The other bidder would have got the Cub for £20.00, but nasty me ran him up to £300.00!

B7200 at the sale today, too many people watching for me have taken the engine out
Cub Cadet 108 also, no reserve, started at £20.00 gear drive, looked to have disc turning brakes fitted. Only 2 bidders.

B7200 at the sale today, too many people watching for me have taken the engine out
Cub Cadet 108 also, no reserve, started at £20.00 gear drive, looked to have disc turning brakes fitted. Only 2 bidders.

Don’t think I will£100 to fill a whole, I might stick with the wood 

Last lot of photos from today...
 

More photos...
 
Photo 10 of this batch, it seems appropriate to see a steam engine by a cash point...
 
 



























 
 
How strange that there was a load of classic cars yesterday when the sun was out but not today...
 

A good day even if the weather was wet and windy, here's some photos...
 
 

Don't think Nigel will be getting any of that then.

Probably the reason for the wooden core plug Norm, save money on antifreeze, when it freezes the ice pushes the plug out easier than it would a metal one, and doesn't crack the casting Knowing some of the farmers around here, that seems perfectly plausible.
They drain the coolant,(water) out of the combines, irrigator pump engines etc, for the winter, and then wonder why they need new water pumps the following year
You also need to use the right type of wood to ensure the coefficient of expansion matches that of the casting

So I thought ok,! Let's take the starter motor off and have a look at the other two core plugs ! Now blimey I've seen some and done some bodges in my time but this takes the biscuit a big lump of wood rammed into the core plug hole 






Last Picts are engine numbers

Well good and bad news got her running engine sounds sweet, so took the head off and I think I should be able to repair the split 








Broke stud of but should be able to get it out

Then I knew I had a weeping core plug but on closer inspection showed some very odd , if you look where I have drawn the arrow some Cornish farmer has drilled a hole and inserted a screw?

Many Happy Returns Norm.  May you have many, many more 

Many Happy Returns Norm.  May you have many, many more