That’s a Magnetron ( electronic, no points) coil. Setting the air gap by the book - turn the flywheel to move the magnets away from the coil.Loosen the coil bolts and pull it away from the flywheel, tighten one. Turn the flywheel so that the magnets are under the coil armature legs. Insert your non magnetic gauge between the coil legs and the flywheel. Loosen th holding bolt so that the magnets pull the coil to the flywheel. Tighten both bolts and rotate the flywheel while pulling the gauge out.
The gauge. I remember that instruction sheet supplied with new genuine coils can be used as a gauge. I use a strip of plastic cut from a milk carton.
On E10 fuel that’s been around a while? Fresh E5 for all my kit and a dash of BS Fuel Fresh in the can before visiting the pump. Aerosol spray of GT85 in my favourite general rescue spray. Your machine looked like a Lawnflite 504/505 , so if on its original engine it could be a bit overdue for a valve job when you’ve got nothing better to do.
Hi, Stormin. I was going to suggest that you try Mike Hitchins at Guy Parts and Service but I’ve since discovered that all the various links to his web addresses appear to be broken . Can only assume that he’s no longer in business.
Edit. Just been informed that the company has been dissolved .
Seems that they are available in the US - several on eBay with appropriate postage and duty etc. Very long shot, have you investigated whether there is any cross over with motorcycle parts.
Edit.Belated after thought. Have you tried OEM importers / distributors for other manufacturers using Kawasaki engines ? Going back to when I sold machines using Kawa engines , it was often easier to get parts through the OEM than the official Kawa channel .
It’s a horrid job needing strong fingers. Just stripped and rebuilt a couple of Siba starters on Villiers F12s. Strong old springs. Nearly there and it jumps out and wraps around your arm like a demented snake ! Villiers own starter on the same engine jus winds in from outside. Why can’t they all be like that?
None of my manuals are very helpful as none has a clear illustration of what I remember as being the setup on an Osprey. I will scan and post the nearest 1707** images that may just assist a bit. Looks like no outdoor work to day so will do that this pm.
Dealt with Meetens since the late seventies when they were in Coombe Lane , Wimbledon; for parts and re-bores etc. Always good service and advice. In those days the phone was often answered by the redoubtable Miss Childs who was the proverbial encyclopaedia of all things Villiers . Let on that you thought that you should be talking to a chap and your card was very politely marked.
A sad sign of the passing years. Best wishes to Paul.
PS. Should add that I’ve heard that L&S Engineers are taking over Meeten’s stock.
You’re so lucky to have them . We had several nests until about six years ago but none since. My parents old house had a circular hole cut in one of the garage doors and the swallows used to fly through and nest at the back . They returned every year from 1934 until the parents moved in the late seventies . The new owners blocked the hole - sad.
Fairly sure that it’s the same coil that was used on Tecumseh, Aspera and Kirby Lawson etc on stators branded Phelon, Ducati and Marelli etc . A scrap pre electronic Flymo should yield one.
Does anyone know of a source of parts for these. In particular, 21” wing unit bottom blades. Neither Central Spares / Spaldings, nor Garfitts do them any more.
They’d been in the tank for about 18 months but often might not be used for a few weeks as if I’m in a hurry I use the phosphoric acid tank. When you say cleaning them “ using the process “,is that just putting it into reverse ?
Its that time of year to do a bit of maintenance on the E tank as all the time its quietly removing rust the anodes are being eaten away - so today was the day.
As you will see, they've been hard at work and it was time to put some old gang mower and triple bottom blades to good use.
Don’t think that you will find a float as it will probably have a “cube carb” with a needle valve operated by a diaphragm. If you are lucky it will respond to a good clean to remove gum and stale fuel - best done in an ultra sonic tank. . Not so lucky the diaphragms will have hardened or split. Worst of all it won’t respond and will need a replacement carb. Dare I say that a Chinese copy carb will cost far less than even a genuine diaphragm and gasket set. Have a look at Garden Hire Spares.
Unlikely to be a timing issue as it has a keyed flywheel. Even if someone has messed with the stator positioning in its slots , mid way should be ok for test purposes. If it has a kill wire going to a kill switch on the throttle / Governor plate, disconnect it. Also, are the points spotlessly clean? After that, you need to find someone who can test the coil and condenser.
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Hayter Osprey
in Other Garden Machines
Posted
That’s a Magnetron ( electronic, no points) coil. Setting the air gap by the book - turn the flywheel to move the magnets away from the coil.Loosen the coil bolts and pull it away from the flywheel, tighten one. Turn the flywheel so that the magnets are under the coil armature legs. Insert your non magnetic gauge between the coil legs and the flywheel. Loosen th holding bolt so that the magnets pull the coil to the flywheel. Tighten both bolts and rotate the flywheel while pulling the gauge out.
The gauge. I remember that instruction sheet supplied with new genuine coils can be used as a gauge. I use a strip of plastic cut from a milk carton.