I've been doing an engine overhaul on a 1980s Tecumseh 7hp iron block vertical shaft engine for another forum member; valves, ignition, charging system etc and just when I thought that I was nearing the end I've found that some vandal has carved a chunk out of the air cleaner backplate and canister. Those parts were still current on Atco 24s etc using the horizontal shaft Tecumseh H50/60 right up to the 1990s so there should be a few around, but not, it appears, in the UK . In the USA, yes, with the appropriate carriage, duty and vat etc., but not over here.
If anyone has a backplate and canister to sell, please contact me - all reasonable expenses paid . Otherwise I will have to get the welding gear out, not really my forte!
This is from a Kohler manual that I acquired in around 1979 so may be a bit dated for your machine - no solid state regulator rectifiers in those days.
Sorry state or what?! Looks like the general electrical melt down may account for the hidden corruption in the loom.
Anyway, back to business. I'm looking for some front wheel bearings for an old Allen National triple rider and I'm fairly sure that they are the same as were used in older Wheelhorses and maybe Cub Cadets. They are made by a US company called Freeway from Cleveland, Ohio , with a reference of ASF-0-108-6 and are pressed steel with a flange to locate them in the hub. The body of the bearing has a 1.3/8" outer and 3/4" inner. As yet I've not found a UK supplier. The problem can be got round but if possible I would like to locate the correct items without having to run the gauntlet of UK customs, duty and vat etc.
Suggest that you disconnect the red wire from the solenoid terminal that points toward the rear of the tractor. Make sure that it doesn’t touch earth just in case it’s live - it shouldn’t be. Set the multimeter to volts and ensuring that the ignition switch is off with the key removed, check for a reading - there should not be. Turn the key to On , there should still be no reading. Turn the key to Start and there should be battery voltage. Release the key and the voltage should disappear . Go between On and Start several times and make sure that the voltage always disappears when the key is released. If all the above are ok it is probably ok to assume that all is well. However if voltage does not disappear when the key is released I would suspect the ignition switch or a wiring fault.
Remove the earth cable from the battery and then all cables from the solenoid. Set the meter to Continuity and check between the two heavy terminals there should be no continuity. If there is it is possible that there is a mechanical fault within the solenoid but your substitution should have already eliminated that.
I did a complete rebuild on one several years ago for the original owner; rebore, all new cables, new axle and bearings, the lot. He died a couple of years later and I suspect that all his old, well maintained kit was scrapped - a great shame.
They are an excellent company but not really geared fo selling to Jo Public, heavy minimum order And carriage charges. However if you can identify suitable springs and then perhaps add a box of assorted for future use , it doesn’t look so bad. My Anzani Powermow is back up and running thanks to them.
Worth talking to them, you might even be able to blag a couple of samples.
The problem in the UK is that larger compressors need a three phase power supply and not many domestic properties have that. I should have said that my figure of 15cu ft is “ Free Air Delivered” and not just cylinder dimensions times rpm. FAD is the figure to look for.
Place an inline dryer at 6-8 feet above the cabinet and remove moisture frequently. You really need a very large compressor to run one of these cabinets, 10-20 CFM is often the requirement
At least. - I've got a slightly smaller cabinet and a 15cu ft compressor and it works hard. When it comes to blasting a twist on the old adage for car (automobile!) engine sizes is the order of the day "there's no substitute for cubic feet"!
In addition you need good dust extraction from the cabinet to see what you are doing. I doubled the amount of lighting and made a dust extractor using a shop vac with a cheap Chinese cyclone between cabinet and vac - traps the heavy dust and preserves the vac. . Not pretty but effective!!
The first thing to establish is that the Hayter Osprey and Hayter 21 are two different machines . One, as may be expected has a 21" cut and the other 24. The 21 was 5hp and the Osprey usually 8hp.
The back ends with the drive were the same and the transmission belt for the single speed machines was pt no 2349, M24/Z24.. The was a rare two speed version of the H21 that used a special belt 4031.
The cutter belt for the 21 was 2348,A46 and for the Osprey 1540, B55 which also happens to be Countax / Westwood part 22940200..
Not sure that I’m understanding the exact nature of the question but Stens products are distributed in the UK by
Hi-Level Enterprises Ltd of Doncaster, DN3 1RA.
Their 2018/19 Stens Big Blue book lists Premium Commercial Solid Braid, Premium Domestic Diamond Braid and Trublue heavy duty solid braid, all available in 2.78mm.
I’ve recently acquired on of these in a fairly rough state, having been abandoned at the end of a garden for ***** years. One of the jobs is to make new front rollers - if any one has a Powermow could they please measure the roller length and diameter.
Quote. "The valve guides are a possible cause and can have the same affect as worn rings on Oil use and by causing the crankcase to be pressurised, instead of running
with a partial vacuum."
Also, it's as well to check the operation of the crankcase breather valve which is incorporated into the valve chest cover. Its correct operation is essential for maintaining negative pressure in the crankcase to assist in keeping it oil tight.
Curiosity got the better of me I couldn’t wait until the winter, now stripped the engine down and could find only one possible problem causing excessive oil consumption, it used 300ml in 2/3 hours use, and the oil ring gap was only about 20 degree away from the middle ring gap and should have been 120 degree a third apart, do you thing the close proximity could be the problem?
The manual quotes a maximum of .027 ring gap I have less than .015 on all the new rings.
All other measurements are within manual specifications.
Terry
As far as I can see, you dont mention glaze busting / honing the bore before fitting the new rings. If that has not been done it is almost certainly the cause of the higher than expected oil consumption.
Also, did you check that the cylinder dimensions were within spec for re-ringing - both diameter and out of round ? It would be normal practice to check those measurments at three positions covered by the piston movement in the bore - top middle and bottom. They would be the deciding factor when considering whether the engine is suitable for re-ringing or is in need of a rebore..
Finally, I know that for some engines Kohler do a "service ring set" specifically to take up wear within the prescribed limitations. Also, the Cords piston ring company can supply special ring sets for worn engines and I see that they list sets for Kohlers..
Just make sure, if you don't know, to stagger the ring gaps. When I removed the piston from my C-125, I found the gaps were in line.
It may not have needed new rings.
It’s certainly good practice to stagger ring gaps when assembling an engine; wherever possible I try to avoid having a gap on the thrust side of the piston. It’s generally accepted that rings rotate during use, known I believe as cyclic rotation, so all the gaps ending up in line is strange indeed.
If, as you say , the points are there and they are in reasonable condition , the condenser should not be a problem as to a great extent most small engines are not too fussy about the exact farad rating. The main issue will be finding one small enough to fit. I recently found two on fleabay that fitted under the flywheels of two Kawasaki engines. They were Denso, in their original packing and advertised as being suitable for a certain model of Datsun (Nissan) car. At the worst, the condenser can be mounted remotely from the coil and points.
I have just found an Atom application list and interestingly it does not mention Yellow at all , so the module on your danarm may not be an Atom. . It shows Brown as being specifically made for Chainsaws, brushcutters and nylon line trimmers.
The yellow module looks like the Atom that was sold in the UK in the 1980s and, I believe came from Australia. Unlike the “ one size fits all” Nova and Meco modules the Atoms came in colour coded specific applications. We used to fit lots of them and I have no recollection of reliability issues. Somewhere I have a list of all their different colour applications .
I still fit Meco modules when rebuilding Villiers F12 and F15 engine’s on vintage Ransomes cylinder ( reel) mowers etc.
What you describe is typical of a safety circuit / switch issue. The machine is saying that it’s not safe to engage the blades - typically the grass bag or deflector not correctly fitted and not pressing in a safety switch; or even the operator not correctly seated.
Vandals!
in Stationary Gas Powered Machines
Posted
I've been doing an engine overhaul on a 1980s Tecumseh 7hp iron block vertical shaft engine for another forum member; valves, ignition, charging system etc and just when I thought that I was nearing the end I've found that some vandal has carved a chunk out of the air cleaner backplate and canister. Those parts were still current on Atco 24s etc using the horizontal shaft Tecumseh H50/60 right up to the 1990s so there should be a few around, but not, it appears, in the UK . In the USA, yes, with the appropriate carriage, duty and vat etc., but not over here.
If anyone has a backplate and canister to sell, please contact me - all reasonable expenses paid . Otherwise I will have to get the welding gear out, not really my forte!