It seems odd that you should simultaneously have both a cranking issue and an ignition one . Faced with that issue and not being familiar with the wiring layout of a 141 I would mentally separate the the two systems and tackle the cranking first.
The fact that you had to bridge the solenoid to ground suggests not just an ignition issue but a safety switch problem also. A wiring diagram would help but can you trace the wire that went to the terminal that you bridged to ground. Chances are that it passes through one or more safety switches on its way to ground. I’m not familiar with a 141 but likely candidates are the clutch, the seat or the PTO / blade clutch.
If you have a multimeter , set it to continuity and hook one lead to the wire that you have removed and the other to ground and then work your way round any safety switches until you find the culprit. That should sort the cranking issue leaving the ignition .
If the new points and condenser don’t solve that, identify the “ kill wire” . That is probably a wire from the points that runs to the ignition switch and is grounded when the switch is in the off position - maybe via a safety switch or two. Disconnect that wire and try for a spark but remember that if the engine fires up there is no way of stopping it.
Sometimes, the fuel filters do appear to be empty but fuel is actually flowing through them. Pull the pipe off the carburettor inlet and hold it over a suitable receptacle and with the tap (if fitted) turned on, and the tank cap in place watch the flow for at least half a minute . If the flow slows or stops repeat with the tank cap loosened or removed. If that improves things, check the breather hole in the cap. Blowing back into the tank outlet may improve things but the crud is still in there waiting to do it again. If that's the cause take the tank off and flush it properly.
Post a couple of images. Existing throttle lever, new and old carbs and the linkage between where the governor shaft comes out of the block and the carb.
Even better, if it’s a Briggs engine, the Model, Type and Code.
It’s almost certainly considerably better than when it left the factory as Westwoods of that era were thrown together with dodgy paint and parts book instructions to “ use as necessary” when it came to shims and washers etc.
Not good news. Last week had an email from brother in law in Somerset - brake failure on his 20 year old Husqvarna LT 125 with a Peerless box. saving grace may be that there were plenty of those boxes in use and a good few broken for parts.
Unless the bearing is worn I would leave well alone, renew the felt seal and fill the chaincase with semi fluid grease.
If the bearing has to come out you will need the type of extractor that uses a ball with flat sides . Presented to the bearing with the flats pushed between the races they are then turned through 90 degrees so that the ball engages and locked between the inner and outer races.
Two, opposite one another are the connected to a puller beam . A lot of hassle when a bit of felt and some “thick oil “ would do the job.
I just hope that the genius who specified the welded chain case was well rewarded !!
I think that your "fibre " one is what they call felt and it wont be difficult to get hold of a bit of felt and make one . You may even be able to get one from an old stock parts supplier such as Jon Cruse at the Hailsham Mower Centre.
I presume that the welded case assembly does have an oil filler plug ? If so, I suggest that you get some semi fluid grease which will lubricate but be slower to leak out.
Plenty on that auction site or from Morris Lubricants on-line shop.
Assuming that by gearbox you are referring to the chain case , the answer is yes, BUT look at the attached IPLs and it would appear that there are two designs of chain case . The one specifically for the De Luxe appears to just have a felt washer as an oil seal and looks as though it can be accessed by removing a circlip and a steel washer, but if the bearing has failed that could be more complicated as it appears to be a welded chain case assembly and a special bearing puller will be needed.
Re chroming aside I often used to compensate for the wear in the Hayter lever and the similar one on the old belt driven Webb 24” machine.
It’s usually the ” anvil “ in the lever body that wears so file it square to make a little flat platform . Then drill the platform to accept a tiny BA screw. Reassemble the lever drilling or reaming out the pivot bolt hole to take a slightly larger pivot bolt and test the locking. Usually it won’t lock because the BD screw head is a bit too large. Carefully file a bit off and try again - until it locks .
Back in the day I had a supply of the little drive rivets that Hayter used for securing the serial number plates on various machines but they are no longer available , so a tiny BA screw has to do.
Th attached are from an old Central Spares catalogue and may be of use in identifying the muffler that you need. My guess is that one from the bottom of page 142 may be what's needed.
Probably best to stick with the original pattern which may still be available from Briggs but almost certainly from one of the aftermarket suppliers. Most Briggs engines also have an internal BSP thread in the exhaust port to facilitate the use or screw in cylindrical mufflers but the proximity of the chain case and, perhaps, the driven pulley may preclude that.
If you can find a decent period catalogue image of the machine it should be possible to identify the original item.
Yes, can be dangerous. A couple of years ago a mechanic working for a certain multi branch ag dealer was inflating a tyre when it blew blinding him in one eye. HSE fined the firm £750,000. later reduced to £100,000 on appeal + £9000 costs.
32 was the greatest number of thorns that I pulled out of a customer’s tyre a few years ago when he complained that the tyre sealant wasn’t working ! I laid them out in a line on a piece of card with a strip of clear tape over them and presented it to him with the bill.
*********
Safety issue . Never inflate a tyre on the flat , especially with your face immediately above it. Stand the wheel on edge at “ right angles” in front of you . That way if the tire blows off the rim it goes left or right and not back at you.
I’ve got one or two things that for one reason or another I don’t want to part with but they are tucked up, safe and dry. I’ve never understood the mentality of those who would see desirable items rot away rather than sell them. Hedgerow finds usually make better reading than projects!!
Valves ( both condition and clearance) first; carb and ignition fettling second. I’ve experienced Kohlers with poor valve sealing only starting with a closed throttle. In the 80s we had a Kohler on a Howard 350 that was giving us considerable grief and on the suggestion from Meetens the points gap was closed a couple of thou from the then manual recommendation of 20thou. - end of problem.
Hi Norm, cosy it certainly will be, but hopefully it won't feel cramped..
Me!! Forget the kettle!!! As if
Thanks Alan, yep slowly getting there.. Here's another update for you all
Thanks mate, I have a few ideas for smaller projects that will make building other projects easier and possible..
After moving lot's of boxes and bit's about the place some space was found!
Even my tatty but comfortable chair was found..
But most importantly this could happen... A moving moment as the 1st coffee's in the new shack were made
The insides of the double doors have been made more wind tight and strenthened with lot's of bit's of batten. They will get double skinned at some point.
Although I need to order some boards to clad the inside, I'm using what wood I have got at the moment..
So this small panel was clad with fake wooden floor stuff
To be continued shortly, the enter keys have both just died on my keyboard!
Thanks to all for looking but as time was moving on I got the welding gear out, made shaped paper templates , cut the sheet steel and stitched it in . A bit of a faff but got there eventually.
There are two or three on US ebay but the carriage and then UK duty and value Added Tax added to the lot makes them a "luxury" item. I've got a couple of feelers out but after that its the welding set!
As far as I know the 7J D4 was built in the US between 1939 and 1943. The first D4D was not made until 1963 with a series number starting 78A. The D4D, series 88A, was being built in Glasgow when I worked there in 1965.
.JPG.dfaa7aa3293f44c756ad20ea6d0037ff.JPG)
.JPG.ec1dc837023c56ffd1bc62ed58795904.JPG)
no spark
in Ride On's
Posted
It seems odd that you should simultaneously have both a cranking issue and an ignition one . Faced with that issue and not being familiar with the wiring layout of a 141 I would mentally separate the the two systems and tackle the cranking first.
The fact that you had to bridge the solenoid to ground suggests not just an ignition issue but a safety switch problem also. A wiring diagram would help but can you trace the wire that went to the terminal that you bridged to ground. Chances are that it passes through one or more safety switches on its way to ground. I’m not familiar with a 141 but likely candidates are the clutch, the seat or the PTO / blade clutch.
If you have a multimeter , set it to continuity and hook one lead to the wire that you have removed and the other to ground and then work your way round any safety switches until you find the culprit. That should sort the cranking issue leaving the ignition .
If the new points and condenser don’t solve that, identify the “ kill wire” . That is probably a wire from the points that runs to the ignition switch and is grounded when the switch is in the off position - maybe via a safety switch or two. Disconnect that wire and try for a spark but remember that if the engine fires up there is no way of stopping it.