You will also find that older Briggs & also Tecumseh engines around 5hp open the exhaust valve slightly on compression. As the engines wear this can cause starting issues due to low compression. On OHV engines I have countered this by increasing the gap on the exhaust valve & on side valve engines I have removed the exhaust valve & ground a bit off the valve stem (not too much). I am sure Wristpin will not necessarily approve of this practice but it has worked for me on several occasions.
Hmm !!!
Approval or not , increasing the gap by any means is counterproductive as far as compression release for easier starting is concerned. The bigger the gap, the less effective, whatever the release method. That said, a really knackered ( technical term) engine may benefit from all the compression that can be found. AKA an elegant, albeit unorthodox, engineering solution!
In their day those diesel Westwoods were not exactly a “happy” machine. Rather typical of a diesel lump being dropped into a petrol chassis. Later on Countax had the same issue putting the Yanmar lump into the A20/50. Westwoods suffered bad vibration, broken fuel pipes and chafed wiring and then , Fire! If one saw a burnt out Westwood it was invariably a diesel!
The UK publication Classic Tractor is running a series of articles on the operation and repair of DB hydraulics. Will be worth investing in some back issues either in print or on line.
Homebase were part of the Home Retail Group ( Argos etc). Then sold to an Oz outfit called Bunnings who were going to work wonders but gave up on them after a year and , I believe, sold them to Sainsbury’s . So whether or not they have a Spares dept is anyone’s guess. If it’s a steel deck machine you may be able to find a rusted out machine ( or two!!) as a pulley or gearbox donor.
Some engage the drive by just tilting the gearbox to tension the belt while others have a small plate or cone clutch. First check for all is the belt, followed by checking that any drive pawls within the wheels are present and not stuck. Then check the operating lever on the gearbox is tight and located on its shaft. After the external checks fail to reveal the cause, those transmissions are usually considered "throw away" , but it is sometimes possible to open then up and shim them to restore drive.
Had a week off work, so between changing the servo on my van, changing the oil and filters, pruning the plum tree at the allotment and picking up my MK12 engine I did a bit more...
Tut tut !
Quote
"If youpruneduring damp weather, theplum treeis at risk of silver leaf disease. Usepruningpaint on cut branches to prevent disease. The best time to prune plumsis early spring or early summer during a dry day. Neverprunein winter (to avoid silver leaf disease)."
Perhaps you need to find someone with a bit of experience with Kohler engines to give you some guidance and practical help.
Most engine manufacturers publish Engine Failure Analysis guides to talk one through the forensic examination of failed engines but they tend to be aimed at dealers.
perhaps you should be asking why the rod snapped? Usual cause is lube failure of the big end but the apparent condition of the crank pin doesn't support that. Next comes over-speeding.. Any sign of governor issues and are the balancer gears correctly timed?
The two clutch linings should be bonded to the steel centre plate. When damp gets between the linings and the centre plate it rusts and breaks the bond . When we were servicing and repairing Hayter 21s and Ospreys on a regular basis we used Loctite Multibond to glue the linings back on, quite expensive but reliable. There may be other suitable adhesives available now.
Some of the worm gear boxes were serviceable with an oil level plug while others were “sealed for life” . The recommended lubricant is an SAE 90 gear oil. Note, a plain gear oil and not an EP grade, extream pressure, oil designed for Hypoid gears which can be detrimental to “yellow metal” worm gears.
As pointed out by Fix'em all the Osprey does have a fibre clutch plate that may contain asbestos and this can absorb moisture and rust to either of the pressure plates - one of which is part of the left hand wheel hub and the other keyed to the axle. Jack the machine up , remove the split pin from the nut in the left hand wheel centre and undo the nut . At this point the wheel and hub should pull off the axle .
If it wont come off, try hitting the inflated tyre with a mallet. If that doesn't work, get back to us.
Nice shed but it depends how you rate the security risk but it looks as though the door hardware is just screwed on.
Not easy to see but are those hinges and the bolt secure? One coach bolt through each side of each hinge in place of a screw and similar for each side of the bolt . Long enough to go right through with decent washers and nuts on the inside.
Who were the UK importers / distributors for the Mowett and what would be the time frame when they were being bought for regular use? Other than on the front cover of a US generic garden machinery repair manual I never saw on in all my time as a dealer.
That's a configuration often used in heavier duty garden tractors such as JD, Ariens or Cub Cadet with a U/J off the back of the engine to shaft drive to the transmission and the drive to the deck via the electric clutch and one or two belts dropping down to a mule shaft under the chassis and a U/J and short shaft to the deck.. However the position of the fuel tank looks a bit wrong for that application.
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Good Wood Revival Settrington Cup
in Off-Topic Discussion
Posted
Probably about 1948