Wristpin

Often solenoids fail as the result of over tightening of the terminal securing nuts or failure to hold the back nuts ( if fitted) while tightening the terminal nuts. This pulls the internal contacts slightly out of line so that when the magnet pulls the contractor disc up it doesn't sit squarely against the contacts . The resulting arcing either welds it into permanent contact or the " slag" created prevents further contact.
One brand of solenoid that we used had a little sticker on each one specifying a maximum torque for the terminal nuts - which of course we observed religiously ! However it was noticeable that we experienced far fewer early failures on solenoids fitted in our workshop than with those sold over the counter.

Sounds as though it may be similar to Owatrol which can either be added to paint or applied by itself as a patina preserver.This cultivator was just given a wash with hot soapy water and the a coat of Owatrol to preserve the original rust, paint and patina, preventing further deterioration .

Need to know more? Can scan the whole book.
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8vpp76wsdvdmjrp/Villiers%20Mk100001.pdf?dl=0

Now that IS patina!!!

Now that IS patina!!!

Don't think that rust and patina can be separated so easily. Unless the metal is rusted through or structurally unsound it forms part of the patina , rust and all. To my mind an old machine in good original condition with 60% plus of its original paint is always preferable to one repainted to ex- factory condition - or better. I'm no fan of two pack on a machine that would have left the factory painted cellulose or synthetic paint.
That said I totally subscribe to an owner doing whatever they like with their own kit, but originality once gone can't be replace!
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patina

Don't think that rust and patina can be separated so easily. Unless the metal is rusted through or structurally unsound it forms part of the patina , rust and all. To my mind an old machine in good original condition with 60% plus of its original paint is always preferable to one repainted to ex- factory condition - or better. I'm no fan of two pack on a machine that would have left the factory painted cellulose or synthetic paint.
That said I totally subscribe to an owner doing whatever they like with their own kit, but originality once gone can't be replace!
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patina

Sounds as though it may be similar to Owatrol which can either be added to paint or applied by itself as a patina preserver.This cultivator was just given a wash with hot soapy water and the a coat of Owatrol to preserve the original rust, paint and patina, preventing further deterioration .

May be the only ones in captivity and they know it!

Good suggestion - thank you. Re-cutting is a possibility but I will need to drill a couple of  2mm test holes to see how much rubber there is over the steel wheel. The image of the parts list that I posted shows that the profile of the wheel has a raised central ridge and I need to be sure that there's enough rubber to take a cut without the tyre splitting.
However, salvation may be on the horizon as I've just had a phone call from a trader who has two two 36" bottom blade / sole plate assemblies  that need  to be refaced and won't fit on his grinder but are within the capacity of mine and he has two sets of mini gangs residing in the undergrowth behind his shed. The wheel/tyre assemblies may not be much better than mine but I see the possibility of a deal!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-penta-crescent-acedemes-penta-5hp-outboard-carburettor-and-bing-fuel-pump-/181947567431?hash=item2a5ceb8d47:g:OFoAAOSw9mFWNV0c
 
Looks similar - but may be not?!

Good suggestion - thank you. Re-cutting is a possibility but I will need to drill a couple of  2mm test holes to see how much rubber there is over the steel wheel. The image of the parts list that I posted shows that the profile of the wheel has a raised central ridge and I need to be sure that there's enough rubber to take a cut without the tyre splitting.
However, salvation may be on the horizon as I've just had a phone call from a trader who has two two 36" bottom blade / sole plate assemblies  that need  to be refaced and won't fit on his grinder but are within the capacity of mine and he has two sets of mini gangs residing in the undergrowth behind his shed. The wheel/tyre assemblies may not be much better than mine but I see the possibility of a deal!

Definitely !

Well, we've had the Shakin Horse, now the Fake Horse!

Sticky breaker plunger?

2 coils,   three condensers

timing is on a keyway seems perfect

Someone's law of workshops
All the available kit will fill all the available space!
Enjoy.

Carburettor. The choke should stay put with friction supplied by a small compression spring and its position located by a pin moving between two cast "upstops" in the carb body.
Valve chest cover. May just be a perished gasket or the flange may have been distorted by over tightening. If the latter a squirt of sealant either side of a new gasket may sort it or even two gaskets .
If you carefully slacken the nut holding the exhaust box onto its manifold will allow you to swing it out of the way. Take time to work the nut loose as its not difficult to shear the threaded end of the manifold. If the worst happens you can drill and tap the end of the manifold to take a set screw.
Edit. Just got brain into gear! What you are seeing is possibly not a leak as such but oil vapour being expelled through the breather valve incorporated in the cover. Take the assembly off and give it a good wash in petrol . Don't go poking around in the flap valve as this may make things worse.If the valve is sticky this should help but if the valve is worn or the engine is worn and "breathing" there's no quick cure - just live with it!

Never seen or heard of it but it does have a JLO look about it.

Still ugly even with make-up on!
We used to call them Gurtrudes!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUTBROD-TRACTOR-1030-IMPLIMENTS-SPARES-ETC-VINTAGE-MOTO-STANDARD-/281848887623?hash=item419f80b947:g:tJ4AAOSw5VFWO46n

Definitely !

Well, we've had the Shakin Horse, now the Fake Horse!

Think that recoil is a bought in unit, possibly Fairbanks Morse, and appears on a variety of engines.

Still ugly even with make-up on!
We used to call them Gurtrudes!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUTBROD-TRACTOR-1030-IMPLIMENTS-SPARES-ETC-VINTAGE-MOTO-STANDARD-/281848887623?hash=item419f80b947:g:tJ4AAOSw5VFWO46n

All a matter of scale !
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3k5h4hus0a1h987/Cat%20D6%20re-chain.doc?dl=0