Wristpin

The early Westwood’s were in fact rebadged US Dynamarks ( as were the first Atco tractors) . One of the distinguishing features was the rounded, pressed deck, whereas the first Westwood made decks were the angular, fabricated “threepenny “ bit ones. But , before that is used to date Westwood production , I’m reliably informed that early home  built Westwood tractors used the rounded Dynamark decks. 

There’s a thought, chance to get rid of one of the old paper ones from under the mattress!

Not exactly old but, it seems, as rare as hens' teeth!
In 2007 Mowbots were distributed by Henton and Chattell in Nottingham but as too often seems to happen in the garden machinery world the manufacturer was not satisfied with Henton's efforts and gave the agency to a company based in Southern Ireland. Let's just say that from then on things went downhill and spares become a problem and now either non existent or eye wateringly expensive. 
We sold several, two of which survived until now: one with a former customer has just died (the bot, not the customer!) and one, another former customer's machine,  with me which is on borrowed time with worn traction motors. These motors are still available at over £220 + vat each  - not a good proposition for a 10 year old machine.
So, if anyone knows the whereabouts of a "spares or repairs" L300 Mowbot , I would love to know about it. 
 
https://imgur.com/a/JNuWN
 

I'll go along with that. Expensive to buy new but due to the quality of the engineering had modest running costs  - unlike many cheaper machines. Is there some history with it such as why was it apparently abandoned to the elements?

Yes, Westwoods were made in the 70s . Not sure how far back for the tractor shaped ones but they were definitely around pre 80s. I had a Lawnbug early 70s or even late 60s!!!!
We used to see the trans drive belt dropped off the big pulley on the top of the trans and used to fit a peg keeper down from above just to stop it falling clear of the pulley when de-clutched.
Did you post this query somewhere else a while back? In answer to whoever did I posted the part numbers for two pulley mod kits for the "zig zag pulleys that did the de-clutching. I'll dig them out again and add them to this post.
EDIT
3230 and 5823   Both on our stock file as "idler pulley mod kits" .Obviously meant something back in the day but may have no relevance to your question!

I hope that you get sorted out . I had a vague recollection of pulley issues with Westwoods of that era and modified pulleys being introduced. If pushed I'd say that they were deeper metal ones . I've had a look at our old stock file and there are two part numbers for "Pulley mod kits" part numbers 3230 and 5823 but no indication of what or why.

Managed to find just one image on line of the Alkotrac ride-on. The conveyor can just be seen on the far side and the frame for the collector on the back.

Managed to find just one image on line of the Alkotrac ride-on. The conveyor can just be seen on the far side and the frame for the collector on the back.

Interesting to read how well the hot air treatment works. I have tried to brighten up faded Flymo decks with all the usual cutting compounds and polishes but other than putting a shine on the faded plastic, no improvement. If it comes to a repaint you will need to roughen it up with 400 wet or dry and then apply a plastic specific primer as used by car bumper repairers and probably available at Halfrauds.
Al-ko, beside being a major manufacturer of caravan, motorhome and trailer chassis, make some decent garden machinery. 
Way back in the 80s they made a grass collecting ride on where the deck exited to a rectangular tube with a conveyor belt inside it carrying the grass to a big upright bin at the rear.  

Interesting to read how well the hot air treatment works. I have tried to brighten up faded Flymo decks with all the usual cutting compounds and polishes but other than putting a shine on the faded plastic, no improvement. If it comes to a repaint you will need to roughen it up with 400 wet or dry and then apply a plastic specific primer as used by car bumper repairers and probably available at Halfrauds.
Al-ko, beside being a major manufacturer of caravan, motorhome and trailer chassis, make some decent garden machinery. 
Way back in the 80s they made a grass collecting ride on where the deck exited to a rectangular tube with a conveyor belt inside it carrying the grass to a big upright bin at the rear.  

Thanks guys. The same request on another forum endorsed the recommendation for Gorilla and also suggested Everbuild Stixall.
A visit to Wickes and B&Q failed to produce Stixall and only the  Gorilla wood adhesive but Evo-Stick Ultimate appears to have done the job.
While on the Antelope trail,  does anyone have a belt guard for sale?

Villiers Mk25?

Another factor to consider is insurance. Insurance companies are getting increasingly restrictive regarding " hot works", particularly where Oxy Acetelyne is concerned and are not too happy with it in domestic situations. Induction heaters get around most of those issues.

Pleased to have been of service! Your final problem and it's solution is interesting as, although I've not experienced it on s BS engine , I've seen it a few times on Tecumsehs; usually after they have been pressure washed during service. It would seem that electronic units can push enough down the kill wire to leak to ground if the conditions are right . In fact I've even experienced a " tingle " from a Tecumseh kill wire.
I hope that the rest of the job goes according to plan, but if not, there's plenty of Osprey related info available.

Good, Sounds like progress of a sort!
Cant remember the exact figure but Magnetron units need around 350 rpm to produce a spark  - considerably more than the old points and condenser set up , so you may not have lost the spark, just not pulling hard enough. If you have not already done so, remove the cutter belt until you have every thing working. On an Osprey there is a fair amount of inertia to overcome in the belt and cutter disc .
if the engine will only run on full or part choke you have a carburettor problem - not ignition ; time for a strip and clean.
 
Loosing your post - remember that we are into page three of a long thread!!!
 
 

I'm a bit confused by the wiring harness illustrated in your last post as it appears to have a two pin socket with one wire possibly being an earth. The normal set up for a Magnetron coil is one wire from the blade connector on the coil running to the engine stop switch on the throttle plate. That said, the coil in your post is unlike any BS coil that I've seen, but as four years have passed since retirement, perhaps things have changed. None of the wires that disappear under the flywheel are needed with a Magnetron coil but it may be easier to either disconnect the stop wire from the old condenser and take it straight to the blade / spade connector on the new coil or cut it off close to the points enclosure and do the same.. That way you don't have to make any changes at the stop switch end.

Interesting, certainly, with the keyways appearing to be just over 90 degrees apart , there should  be no doubt about which one to use.
Bet it really sings when put into work.
Seeing that the ignition cam is on the crank and not on the flywheel boss makes some of my instructions for setting the points irrelevant  - and makes the job far easier than on the smaller JLOs that I have worked on.
Not only is it a fairly unusual machine but it also looks not to have been over worked or badly treated. 
 
 

The most common problem is incorrect positioning of one of the bushes with locating " nibs" not sitting in theit cut outs in the casings. 

The new coil armature requires setting up as follows. Turn the flywheel so that the magnets are furthest away from the coil . Pull the coil as far from the flywheel as the slots allow and pinch up one coil fixing screw. Rotate the flywheel so that the magnets are equally aligned with the coil armature legs. Place your gauge ( plastic or card ) between the armature legs and the flywheel. Release the screw that you tightened and the magnets will pull the coil onto the flywheel pinching the gauge . Tighten both screws and turn the flywheel to assist pulling the gauge out.
In the absence of the correct gauge, Briggs used to suggest two thicknesses of an outdated micro fiche. 

It's a straight forward job. The Briggs Magnetron  kit illustrated includes a new flywheel key and a blanking plug for the points breaker plunger hole. Obviously, to fit those the flywheel has to be removed .  I have to own up to fitting many Magnetron coils without removing the flywheel and leaving the original key and points assembly in place with no apparent ill effects over a number of years.
The choice is yours.

The thin wire from the coil low tension windings goes under the flywheel to connect to the contact breaker points and condenser. (Under a tin cover) . Another thin wire comes from the points to the kill switch which is positioned adjacent to were the throttle cable is anchored. The action of closing the throttle past the idle causes  that switch to connect the coil and points to earth , thereby killing the ignition. 

The same question has just been asked elsewhere  and having failed to find a decent digram in any BS book a friend has marked up an image.

The early Minis had a similar push button starter switch on the floor between the front seats. May still be obtainable from classic car suppliers.

This may assist
https://www.boards.ie/b/thread/2057437399

By the look of the image your machine has points ignition, no trigger module between the left leg of the coil armature and the coil itself.
Plug caps. Comments have been made about these being the likely cause of failure. This is only likely to be the case if the original BS connector has been removed and replaced with an aftermarket cap. Again, from your image you appear to have the original connector and there's not a lot that can go wrong with those. Sometimes they have a simple rubber boot. 
The only exterior things left to check is the kill switch on the throttle plate or the kill wire that goes to it. If all is OK there, you have a choice, either remove  the flywheel and examine the points etc , or find a later BS Magnetron coil ( with suitable leg spacing)  and fit that in place of yours - a ten minute job and a direct replacement using your existing flywheel without the need to remove it.
Personally I would do the latter as they are 99.9% reliable and obviate  the need to ever remove the flywheel again.